Q's. re:4AGZE throttle body positioning/re-location

[PrettyCoolWagon]

Yep - crank angle sensor - I know what that is..Surrounded by Cam gear, cam-cover, intercooler mount bracket & far left exhaust port.

So is that why it has the off-set bolt in a slot on the left side? ..so it can be rotated up & down a bit to reset base timing signal back to the ECU?

Also not sure what is meant by "shorting pins"

Pretty sure my old man's got a timing light & can show me how to use

[Kebin]

Go for an sc14! alot of work to fit but good gains in terms of torque/response
Heres a setup i helped a mate with on a ke35 we built
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...ze+ke35&page=4

[PrettyCoolWagon]

G'day Kev' How are ya mate?

Nice write up on your mate's KE.

Definitely enjoying learning & considering about various different set ups & the s/c14 would be a great way to get more power without thrashing the hell out of a s/c12

SC14 - fitment guide:

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...=1#post1271021

Would love to see one for FWD / AWD set-up

[TERRA Operative]

To short the pins, you have to find the diagnostic connector in the engine bay (little black box with 'diagnostic' on the top) then open it up.
In the lid you'll see the names of all the connections inside. Find Te1 and E1 and get a paperclip or bit of wire and join those two together with the car turned off.

When you turn the key to the 'on' position without starting it, the check engine light will flash any error codes your ECU might have.
When you actually start the engine, the timing will be locked by the ECU and you can use the timing light and loosen the bolt on the crank angle sensor and rotate it to get your 12 degrees of advance.
Stop the engine, pill the wire out of the diagnostic connector and you're ready to drive.

[Slipper86]

you might be interested in a setup I did on a friends KE35. (not the same one as above). As mentioned at the top on thread we moved the thottle body so the pressure from the S/C when the throttle closes does do damage. (thats why turbos use blow off valves).

In the third picture we bolted the throttle body to the pipe coming out from under the inlet manifold. the car when it was complete was a monster to drive. SO much power revved out as well. Everyone says S/Cs cant handle revs. LIES!!! PS had 14psi boost with standard pulleys

[PrettyCoolWagon]

To short the pins, you have to find the diagnostic connector in the engine bay (little black box with 'diagnostic' on the top) then open it up.
In the lid you'll see the names of all the connections inside. Find Te1 and E1 and get a paperclip or bit of wire and join those two together with the car turned off.

When you turn the key to the 'on' position without starting it, the check engine light will flash any error codes your ECU might have.
When you actually start the engine, the timing will be locked by the ECU and you can use the timing light and loosen the bolt on the crank angle sensor and rotate it to get your 12 degrees of advance.
Stop the engine, pill the wire out of the diagnostic connector and you're ready to drive.

"Aaahhh F**k my dayz..." I would never've known to do something like that in a million years - I'm pretty sure I'd be right in guessing I won't find that in my MR2 repair manual..

[PrettyCoolWagon]

you might be interested in a setup I did on a friends KE35. (not the same one as above). As mentioned at the top on thread we moved the thottle body so the pressure from the S/C when the throttle closes does do damage. (thats why turbos use blow off valves).

In the third picture we bolted the throttle body to the pipe coming out from under the inlet manifold. the car when it was complete was a monster to drive. SO much power revved out as well. Everyone says S/Cs cant handle revs. LIES!!! PS had 14psi boost with standard pulleys

14 PSI on standard pulley's is pretty out there.
Thanks for the interesting pics ... It could probably be done on a FWD / AWD transverse set up but it'd be a lot tighter, especially with a SC14

[PrettyCoolWagon]

Go for an sc14! alot of work to fit but good gains in terms of torque/response
Heres a setup i helped a mate with on a ke35 we built
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/sho...ze+ke35&page=4

Hi Kev'

How did those power door lock actuators work out as a replacement for the AE95's vaccuum drum actuator that locks the central diff?

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=28002

Do you rekon they're good enough to last in muddy conditions or pass inspection by an engineer?

[Kebin]

Do you rekon they're good enough to last in muddy conditions or pass inspection by an engineer?

In my honest opinion... No.
I never got around to trying them but i can only assume they would work for a short amount of time but i would safely expect a quick fail rate. I was more content on the waste gate actuator idea.

[GZE016]

I went from 3sge TB in front of an SC14 to NA inlet and found a huge improvement especially from 4500 upwards revving cleanly to red line with enough of a change that the factory ecu timing and fuelling would cause pinging through the mid range.

I wouldn’t recommend the TB after the SC because you need to run a large bypass valve for when throttle closes and it also make it quite loud and anti social so stick to TB before.


Vic.

[PrettyCoolWagon]

In my honest opinion... No.
I never got around to trying them but i can only assume they would work for a short amount of time but i would safely expect a quick fail rate. I was more content on the waste gate actuator idea.

OK cool, I don't know much about the internals of waste gates except they can be pretty strong & compact compared to the OEM vaccuum drum..

Sounds like a good choice / direction to head in...

[PrettyCoolWagon]

I went from 3sge TB in front of an SC14 to NA inlet and found a huge improvement especially from 4500 upwards revving cleanly to red line with enough of a change that the factory ecu timing and fuelling would cause pinging through the mid range.

I wouldn’t recommend the TB after the SC because you need to run a large bypass valve for when throttle closes and it also make it quite loud and anti social so stick to TB before.


Vic.

So am I hearing you right?

You kept the throttle body in the same position but upgraded it to a 3SGE?

Sounds good.. ..& I agree, I'm not a huge fan of the "WHAAPISSHHH!!!!" sound made by waste gates.

Your results sound good.

So it's 3SGE TB, SC14, IC, NAintake.. Have you got any pics?
Was it transverse mount or north south?

[PrettyCoolWagon]

Oh, and the 4AGE, 4AGZE and gen 2/3 3SGTE throttle bodies are bolt for bolt compatible. The 4AGZE TB butterfly is 5mm smaller in diameter than the other two though, and the 4AGE TB has the wax pellet idle air bypass rather than the ECU controlled motor on the 4AGZE and 3SGTE, which means your car will stall in summer with the A/C on if you use the 4AGE TB.

Been there, done that. The 3SGTE is the way to go, unless you have a 4AGE butterfly and bore out the 4AGZE TB, but that's work.

If I head to the self serve wreckers this weekend, what cars will I find the 2nd & 3rd generation 3SGTE's in?

...& are there any other little add on bits n piece I should be grabbing too?

[TERRA Operative]

Celicas have the engines you want. Maybe other cars but I'm not sure. You also want the rubber adapter that sits on the throttle body too, until you make up a proper aluminium adapter.

Like this:

[PrettyCoolWagon]

What year celicas?

I take it, this is 1st gen:

Make/Model: Toyota Celica, RA65 11/84-11/85
Engine: 2.0
Transmission: AUTO
Year: 1984
Odometer: 465521
Date In Stock: 16 Dec 2010


& this is the 2nd OR 3rd generation that I'm looking for:

Make/Model: Toyota Celica, ST162L 10/86-03/89
Engine: 2.0
Transmission: 5SPD
Year: 1987
Odometer: 307661
Date In Stock: 14 Dec 2010


Or am I sh*t outta luck? ..That's all they have in stock at the mo'

BTW sexeh fab work on the adapter