Whats the upgrade path for a 1ggte

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Because you don't have to constantly wring the car's neck to get anywhere?

But, you're not constantly wringing it's neck to get anywhere. You give it the throttle required to move the way you want...we're not talking a little NA engine here. Turbos make torque, you use it when you need it. Damn willis, you ARE getting old.

[Nark]

Yes, I think I'm getting old.

[86TT]

Righty , i know what i,m doing now lol ....safc, electonic boost controller , larger intercooler and an accurate boost guage .
I,ve only mildy upped the boost at the moment as i,m still working off the stock boost guage.

I,ll definately stay with the twins and maybe go for the setup suggested by Frank at a later date ( or when the ct12,s have poppped )

Many thanks to all for giving me the straight answers i was looking for and BTW Frank we can gut or remove a cat over here on pre 1/8/1992 cars with no penalties

Oh and stradlater .....gotta love that car of yours

[MarkIIGT]

love that plenum hypo... is that made using the standard runners?

[Karma Supra]

Good thread!!! Ello 86TT I know you

It looks like I am going the right route then (Trust FMIC, mines ECU, Apexi SAFC, AVC-R, and some headwork, along with an HKS hyper, decat and induction kit)

Just out of interest, will a 3" downpipe make that much difference??? The outlet from the "Y" pipe is a fair bit smaller then that? (from memory it looks about 2.5" or so, but I'm probably wrong lol)

Aso can anyone confirm that the sensor in the cat is just a temperature sensor? I always assumed it was (for the hot cat light), but some guy at the local toyota dealership keeps telling my is a closed loop lambda sensor???

[stradlater]

could well be a lambda sensor mate. I don't konw about these stock ecu's but it could be.


As for the 3" dump pipe bit, granted that the Y pipe might be the restriction, but if I'm not mistaken, there's two of them? so that would make it better than just 1 2.5" yeah?

Anyway, you would want a 3" because there's no point in having a restriction after the turbo. You want to get that gas out of there as fast as you can. But before the turbo you want as much velocity as you can.

[Karma Supra]

Well I know the lambda sensor is in the "Y" pipe, this guy was claiming that its a second lambda sensor!! (he said something about a closed circuit system) I still think its a cat temp sensor... But I'm willing to be corrected lol

There is one Y pipe, I'll have a measure of it tomorrow as it is off the car.. It does look like a bit of a bottleneck to me though!!! I guess the theory is that hotter air is less dense, so it flows better, at the "Y" its very very hot, but it will cool in the downpipe so it makes sense fo the diameter to be bigger, even if the "mouth" is smaller..

Late night rambling again... It'll be one of those posts I'll re read when not half asleep and be horrofied by

[TA-022]

i think the querry is more the Y pipe ends in a single 2.5" outlet ... isnt a 3" after this waste? or would it still help to aleviate flow restriction without the need to go as far as a new Y pipe.

[purple5ive]

Ive been wanting to go down this path for a while now I have the safc , but just haven’t had the time to do it , now I must ask this

What is the better size to do the dum pipe from the turbos , is it 2.5 inch or 3 inch , my mate has a full 3 inch from the turbo on his 1g and the car is veryyyyyyy sluggish mine is still stock and beats him by couple of car lengths on start he has bigger blitz bag turbos mine is stocker with bigger cooler and 2.5 inch cooler piping he says the car got that way after changing the exhaust

karmasupra im sure that air expand when hot not when cold
Now I know that the bigger diameter pipe will flow more air and since the hot air expands its better for a bigger dump pipe , but seeing my mates car and also the fact that the factory y pipe is roughly 2-2.5 inch dia im in doubt as to what to do since the y pipe is small will there be a improvement fitting a 3 inch after , because the exhaust is only flowing as good as the biggest restriction(in this case the y pipe) up to the cat anyway isnt it
I have atm cat back 2.5 inch press bent system as I think that after the cat the gases cool down heaps which imo makes it unnecessary to get a mandrel bent system after the cat
The cat I have is a 3 inch however, so should I go to a 3 inch dump of the y pipes or a 2.5 inch dump

Also mine has that sensor thing in the cat unplugged as well I dunno what its for , I thought it was for the overheat warning of the cat but now im doubting even that
Car was running an afr of 10.5 - 10 on full boost 9 psi when it was stock dunno what its now , will that sensor being unplugged from the cat make the car differently as ive noticed the car idles a little higher now days , but settles down after a while , like after driving somewhere and parking it it idles in 1000-1200 rpm then slowly settles to 700

Cheers

[stradlater]

that idle thing COULD be temperature based, I dunno

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The whole point is reducing the backpressure as much as possible for the turbos. Yes the outlet is 2.5", but anything you can do while the exhaust gas is still hot will help.

purple5ive - What cars are we talking about here?

[TA-022]

figured as much ... but this being my 1st turbo build i want to do it onc and do it right.
thanks all

[purple5ive]

[QUOTE=purple5ive - What cars are we talking about here?[/QUOTE]


Both soarers, both 1g-gtes gen 2 one black and one white in colour lolll
Mates car had 3 inch exhaust from turbo , mine was still stock
Mate had replacement blitz cooler, mine had elcheapo hybrid copy with 2.5 inch pvc piping
Mates was running blitz bag turbos, mine was stock gen 2 turbos
Mate was running 14 psi, mine was stock 9psi

Dunno wtf happened but mine would just pull nicely away at start but his was just plain sluggish I drove his car as well and it was way different to mine just wasn’t going anywhere but after the revs climbed then his was faster loll

also while im in here ui recall jcmf sayign something about sparkplug gaps in the 1g , i have the 22 dollar each plugs in there should i be regapping them as well i dunno what gap they are atm is there any way to check and fix that problem

Now I have a cat back press bent 2.5 inch zorst with a 3 inch hiflow cat , I just dunno what size to go 2.5 inch or 3 inch as the y pipe is 2.5 inch will going to a 3 inch make a difference, I know u just said while the gas is hot , but even though its hot the exit path is a bottle neck , so wont that be a restriction even with me going 3 inch
I seen on a zoom article a sprinter with a 1g-gte he just had stock boost, safc, pod filter and a 2.5 inch mandrel all the way and made 160kw , wtf mine only made like 92 or some shit like that stock as a rock in auto its now a manual with the cat back, bigger cooler
I want to complete the zorst , which is my dilemma of what size to go, then add the safc, boost to 14 and tune it to hopefully get around 150kw
U reckon that possible or am I wating my money as I really don’t have much to spend and am saving like hell so I don’t want to be disappointed
I had a single turbo kit to go on but had to sell due to need of cash

[JustCallMeOrlando]

It's definetly possible. That Sprinter is for sale at the moment. My car on 17psi with the BAG turbos, intercooler, 3" exhaust and Gen3 ECU would be making around the 170rwkw+ mark.

[hypo23]

mark11gt; ya im using the standard runners