The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[Rhyno]

Sweet, was not sure if you where talking about the 22 or the 18r efi bits.

Sounds like exactly what I need, would you be able to point to the company that helped you out mate?

[o_man_ra23]

Bought it from a member on here...

[Rhyno]

Ah snap...

Let the never ending search continue...

[The Witzl]

i opened up the sump to have a look inside my engine last night.
I forgot how awesome it is.


Unfortunately looking awesome /= doing a skid.

[TTV8RA23]

Hey guys got a question and i dont really have the time to read through all 45 pages just now (i will for research purposes slowly work my way through it) What is about the safe boost limit on a 18rgeu with no mods. Will put a nice turbo, small front mount and a rising rate fuel pressure regulator with MS controlling it. How much boost could i expect to safely run for a daily driver?
Cheers and thanks for your time.
Simon

[jabbatron]

..........

[TTV8RA23]

Oh that sounds bloody good. Should wake it up a bit. No rising rate regulator even? I plan on running Mega squirt so timing changes etc shouldnt be too hard! Or is that not controlled by ECU. How do you advance timing when it hits boost? Thinking about it i dont think the mega squirt will do that. I need to look up on the mega squirt thread for some info i think. Im hoping the turbo i have will not be too big. T25 .63 exhaust housing with fairly large compressor housing
DSR 380 TURBO. Any other info and things i might need to know would be really appreciated. Thanks for your time.
Cheers
Simon

[o_man_ra23]

Simon, Megasquirt will control ignition timing and injector pulses, so no need for a rising rate regulator or any worry about not being able to retard timing on boost. But do get a good fuel pressure regulator, first hand experience says cheap ebay ones are NOT the go. Turbosmart aren't that bad on price, but are pretty darn good quality... up there as one of the best.

As for how much boost, well that depends how good your tune is. Agreed that 10psi is a good safe limit for a stock motor, and will certainly give a fun ride (though your tyres will disagree). A poor tune will blow a good motor at lowish boost, so make sure once you have it driving ok, you take it to somebody who knows what they are doing and get the tune sorted (the hard part for a good tuner is getting the car to start, idle and drive, once that is done, fine tuning is what they live for). Though this will cost a few dollars, it will save you a lot in the long run.

Another thing to consider is the possibility of putting a crank angle sensor. The stock dizzy signal will be pretty nasty for a Megasquirt and will severly limit the accuracy of the engine. The dizzy can still be used to transfer the high voltage signal from the coil to the 4 plugs though, so no need there for a wasted spark setup. Don't forget to disconnect the vacuum advance from your dizzy if you are using it for the signal though (and it would be worth looking into locking the two half shafts of the dizzy - simple job, see my rides thread)

Good luck mate.

[TTV8RA23]

Primo thanks for the info.
I have been doing a heap of over time at work so i have on its way
MS2 with v3.57 board
Innovate wide band 02 sensor associated wiring etc
Trigger wheel
Hall effect CAS
IAT Sensor
Hot coil with built in ignitor etc so MS can run it direct.
EVO 6 front mount intercooler
460cc high impedance injectors

18RGEU was picked up last night in better nick than pics suggested too. The deal included everything from fan to tail shaft including W55 with barely used heavy duty clutch, brand new leads spare dizzy spare altenator and only set me back $600. Turbo manifold will be made up as soon as i have the motor in the bay.
Why do i need to run after market FPR? Im not blowing you off just curious? If tuner knows what he is doing can he not just adjust injector opening durations to control fuel delivery. I have always thought rising rate FPRs were just a patch up really for a non up to scratch fuel system?? Correct me if im wrong here.
I have a VL external pump sitting there and thinking about using that. Should flow enough yes? They say on DIYAUTOTUNE that with the wideband o2 sensor they self tune, tells you how to set them all up etc. Could this be trusted to tune the motor properly or would dyno time still be advised?
Another question, the dude i bought the motor off said he has a head sitting there with big cams it it more duration more lift that i would be able to pick up for bugger all but been a daily and turbo is there really much gains to be had to make up for for lack of bottom end and reduced driver friendlyness?
Hopefully things will happen fairly quickly on this and will have some cool update pics for you asap.
Cheers
Simon

[o_man_ra23]

Factory fpr will be rat shit by now. New after market will be accurate.

Lumpy cams won't be needed for a boosted daily. The long duration may even cause intake charge to be blown out the exhaust.

Vl pump should flow plenty, but will either need a low pressure feed pump, or a gravity feed in the bottom of your tank as they won't suck from the tank and will cavitate badly.

The self tuning of the ms will work for some applications, but dyno time would both speed things up and make for a better tune. The self learned tune should make the dyno tune cheaper though.

[JadeEstevez]

Hey everyone, I was originally going to build a nice N/A 18RG for my Celica but have been convinced to go turbo. I'm on the hunt for an 18RGEU EFI setup, but I know nothing about EFI or Turbo's. I know I'd need low compression, I have thought of using 18RC pistons in my RG but I'm unsure if they can handle it, don't you need forged pistons and rods?

Sorry about the NOOB questions. If you can use the 18RC pistons, that'd be good because I have an 18RC sitting in my shed... Saying that though, I wouldn't mind boring to 2.2litres still. Another thing is I'm unsure of Cams and what I'd need to suit the Turbo.

I'd appreciate any help =)

[roadkill]

hI,
the 18rc pistons will have a really low compression somewhere in the order of 6:1 as they are a flat-top piston. The 18rg pistons are a dometop piston so higher compression, but not quite ideal. Also you'll find that the 18rc pistons will probably hit the valves.

I'd suggest having a good read through this thread as the info is pretty much all here as well as read through rivers thread on his 18rg turbo ra28. It's a good read.

I will say though, be prepared to spend a butt load of cash. You could easily get a 1jz in there and running for less that what it will cost to do an 18rg turbo (unless you can find one already done) with better results and higher reliability.

bEn

[Zammo]

MarcusEstevez you should get onto this then if your going turbo will post in the other thread 4 you too

http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/roley...fold/330881132

[river]

Hi,

I will say though, be prepared to spend a butt load of cash. You could easily get a 1jz in there and running for less that what it will cost to do an 18rg turbo (unless you can find one already done) with better results and higher reliability.

Yes, it's not a cheap exercise to properly build up an nice 18R-G turbo. Mind you, it's a wonderful feeling to turn one of these NA classics into a fine turbo engine. Probably could 1JZ it instead, but depending on your build it may or may not deliver more than an 18R-GTE. Certainly won't be the same room under the hood if you have a 1JZ and not sure how it would affect the balance and front end.

Reliability is fine if you've spec'd up and built the 18R-GTE properly. I can run over 20lb in the engine I have but I only run about 12lb. This gives me plenty of poke and as the engine isn't stressed I have excellent reliability.

I went 18R-GTE 'cos everyone talked about it but never seen one, and as I like these old engines and its going in an RA28 I decided to keep it all the same. Also got air con which is cool... literally.

seeyuzz
river

[JustenGT8]

Zammo's find is a good start. Exhaust manifolds are readily sourced off eBay along with a cheapish turbo to suit. Pistons are also pretty cheap and forget the low comp advice....it's rubbish that these days should be derided as dinosaur thinking 9:1 is easy and 10:1 also very doable for a streeter.

The rest of the engine build will ost the same for either n/a or turbo.....and no it just won't be cheap.

For a mild T setup the price will be similar to a 1j conversion from your starting point and a 1j definitely has more power potential. RG will maintain better handling and I've never liked the feel of the sixes in the RA body....that's just me though

Don't be fooled, this will be a major exercise no matter hitch way you go given you stated you want some 'balls'

Come on River, I had a wild 18RGT back when you still had hair