The 18R-GTE reference manual ...

[JadeEstevez]

Thanks for the input =) I'm not worried about $$$, this will be something I build over time...

I wouldn't go 1J, I've heard it turns your small car into a lead tipped dart, Dangerous apparently..? I'd much prefer old school original with a turbo hanging off the side as opposed to modern =P

I'm sussing out that EFI setup on gumtree at the moment, thanks everyone.

[ra_28]

Well here is your pistons.

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/eng...s-9-7-1-a.html

and if you talk to yellorolla he is in the process of making my new turbo manifold so he possibly may be able to do another one?



Cheers
Alex

[JadeEstevez]

Well I think I'll concentrate on the hard to get EFI first, Plus I don't have the cash for those pistons =P

But basically I do need forged pistons and rods yes? Speaking of, what else needs re-enforcing? O__o

[river]

Hi,

To do it properly you need the entire engine rebuilt from scratch. I mean everything, and with all the parts and labour, it is not cheap.

seeyuzz
river

[JadeEstevez]

I know, I completely rebuilt my 18R thats in my RA40 at the moment, I know it gets costly, I don't mind. It's not like I need the engine ready in a week ;P I can take my time building this, my 18R will last me long enough to have an 18RGTE built, It's only done 8000kms.

[JustenGT8]

Well I think I'll concentrate on the hard to get EFI first, Plus I don't have the cash for those pistons =P

But basically I do need forged pistons and rods yes? Speaking of, what else needs re-enforcing? O__o

Nope not at all. Stock rods are good for bulk power and handle revs ok too. A linish and shot peen doesn't hurt but not mandatory. New pistons from the US for under $500 delivered and strong enough for stret usable boost.

The only thing that is a must is ditching the stock flywheel. They were never great and now old and dangerous in my book....especially when's there's good qual billet ones readily available aftermarket at fair prices.

[JadeEstevez]

So should I buy new pistons and rods or can I use the old ones in the 18RG at the moment? Also whats a safe amount of street usable boost?

Also also whats linish and shot peen mean?


Again I apologise about the NOOBiness of my questions. Sorry if I've dumbed you all down from it ;P

[Zammo]

id be weery of pushing a rebuilt stock motor past 10 psi

[Zammo]

linish and shot peening

kwik version

linish remove cast markings and such
shot peening suface hardening by shooting little balls at it

[JadeEstevez]

O___o Right. Whats the benifit of getting rid of cast markings?

10Psi would be enough for road use yeah? A big question I need to know is how much will running a turbo shorten the life of the engine?

[Zammo]

ten psi is plenty fun but like i said I would be weery maybe more than halve the life span dunno thats a hard one to call as so many other factors come into it.

linishing off the casting marks and other imperfections gives a more uniform surface to shot peen/case harden there for less places for metal fatigue to start (i think thats at least one of the reasons) plus a small reduction in air and oil drag, allthough prob not noticable on anything other than all out race motor.


that said i knew a guy who used to put 1bar/14psi through near stock internals motors and 2 out of three wouldnt last more than a couple days but occasionally hed get one to go a bit longer

[JadeEstevez]

Wow. Well I am willing to get forged parts, just take a little longer to build, no biggy. Is the peening and linishing necessary for a street daily?

[Zammo]

no its not for a daily streeter or even a mild motor

but its a relitively simple and cheap mod that one would do for peace of mind while building any motor while it was apart

[JadeEstevez]

How much does it cost? If it's cheap might as well get it done while the blocks being acid dipped and bored.

[Zammo]

dunno about SA

But you have so many options down there it wouldnt even mater ring around ask whoevers doing the rest if they can ???