It's supposed to but sure as hell don't act like it? I need someone more familiar with autos to confirm?
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
91 JZA70 Single Turbo... with a CT26 Hi-Flow and go fast auto bits - SOLD!
2010 VW Golf GTI 3dr 6sp Manual - the new quick daily.
TECCWA Member and Webmaster
What the Moleman saidChecked the readers ride again and definetly has a 3.5k stall.
The turbo you're looking at should be perfect for what you're after Justen.
I'm using the same thing with a 0.82 rear housing and it makes 22psi at just under 3,000rpm. It's very much a light switch at anything over 1/2 throttle. Although at lower, trying not to draw attention to myself, throttle openings I find it doesn't become a torque monster until a little later (3,500 to 4,000rpm). But its still quite driveable as a daily and will happily drive along changing gears at 2,300rpm, plus my motor is running lower compression pistons which doesn't exactly help the off boost torque.
Given all that, the 0.63 is only going to be better again in terms of response and driveability.But I suspect 300rwkw might be approaching the limit of that housing.
EDIT: Oh lol.. Didn't see there was a page 3. Well if you do ditch the twins at some stage, the above may still be of some use in the future.
Just thought I'd share a link to a company you may or may not be aware of, this mob http://www.munroracingturbochargers....e.2jzct20.html offer a range of modifications for the standard twins if you did decided to go down that path, good prices too. I'm planning on getting my spare set steel wheeled and high flowed there in the future. IMO, if you're only chasing ~300rwkw and a nice responsive daily drive theres no point swapping to a big single. Having to swap intake piping, intercooler piping, dump pipe, oil/coolant lines and manifolds is too much effort.
Cheers, guys. Food for thought, but current plan is still to stick with twins until they go kaput and then install the single setup i now have in the shed.
Good real world experience there Pheonix...better to hear real results rather than guestimates of what might happen.
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Hey lads,
I ended up with a jza80. The 2j for my merc with auto is in the shed still.
I have a precision bb 6765 with .94 rear and quick spool valve (sonic performance)
Spools at 2000rpm, 0.5 bar at 2500rpm and 1 bar around 2800rpm.
To say I was shocked is an understatement. Best of both worlds!
In retrospect I would have gone even bigger in exhaust housing.
Cheers mate, that's good feedback. Auto or manual Poopra? and is that a T3 turbine housing? what style DP flange? Thanks again for the info
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
Justen the 6765 is slightly larger than a to4z but as it is a billet turbo it has similar response to a 3540 sized turbo. Im assuming he means sound performance QSV as they're so far one of the only workshops to perfect it. the 6765 also has a t4 foot print. if you like the sounds of the billet turbos there is also the 6567 which spools like a gt30 but will get as much power as a 3540.
obviously this is info from the US with ramped up mustang dyno readings and every kid using racing fuel. so on a DD and with crappy australian fuel i can only assume it would be less power!
Stock NA JZA80
"Never drive faster than your angel can fly." - Boyd Graham 'ASSAIL' R.I.P
Bigger than a TO4Z and 15 psi by 2800rpm? Does not compute?
Lily Simpson 6.7.2010
R.I.P.
If you like the unconventional approach this may be your cup of tea.
When I get over my NA fever and get around to boosting a car I'm going to try a Holset VNT HE351. Can be had brand new for $1300 these days. Flow 600hp+ and full boost on a 2L petrol by 3800rpm, so on a 2J, 2500rpm will see full boost. Only downer is you need a decent ecu with PWM outputs to control the variable vein solenoid. Unlike the garret VNT's they can handle the heat from a petrol motor, and from most accounts, running an external wastegate will help keep turbo temperatures down, by diverting excess exhaust gas around the turbo.
I do like idea of variable geometry turbos becoming more mainstream in the aftermarket world. There'd have to be a market for a piggy back ecu to control the vane control solenoid. Something that taps into all the typical stuff a SAFC monitors, injector duty cycle, TPS, MAP/AFM, RPM then adjusts boost accordingly.
Thinking about there probably is something out there that does this.
Closed loop boost control like factory would be nice. I'm fairly sure holset use a stepper motor. You need to build an external reset circuit with a 555 timer chip to give it pulses to get back to a known starting location before the ecu can do its job properly, sounds like a nightmare. If you remove the factory VNT controller and retrofit a linear servo I've heard you should be able to use PWM closed loop boost control like whats built into my adaptronic. I hope someone works it out properly before I try to get one to work![]()
Yeah i think a dyno sheet might be required to proove that. If you jump on the US supra forums you'll see sound performance have had a lot of success with increasing spool with the QSV's. i think it should be 3800rpm not 2800 as that would beat all testing so far with set-ups in the US
Stock NA JZA80
"Never drive faster than your angel can fly." - Boyd Graham 'ASSAIL' R.I.P
Early garret/honeywell variable vane turbos as seen on early 00s benz diesels (638 and some 639 vitos) used a vacuum advance style system. i have one floating around that ive been holding onto to chuck onto a stupid project when i get some time/money to kill. It is pretty cool how turbo tech is really getting into mainstream and shits getting cheaper though.
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