4age Crank Info for 4agte usage

[Sam_Q]

hey whats the part number for a new crank?

[dangdang]

p/n 13401-16020

I have put it under my first post to make it easy to find for others.

[Sam_Q]

thanks and good idea

[senn]

What are the Stiffner boss's on the 20v's like? Is it even the same thing you guys are talking about? Can it be used on a 16v as well?

[dangdang]

Stiffener boss's?? You mean the alloy piece that comes on the 20v engine between the block and bellhousing? I've never played with 20v's to know myself but I believe that most people who convert the 20v to Rwd remove them as they require a little bit of modification to fit in some applications. I believe they would help stop cracking/braking bellhousings more than stiffening the block. Anyone?

[dangdang]

Just some more info, the 20v stiffener bosses mentioned above wont fit a 16v block.

And some pics of the new crank I recently received. This is all anyone I know of is using in their boosted setups. Standard crank FTW.

Also one thing I found which is noteworthy, the ends of some of the throws are blued where they are finished, my machinist and an engine builder friend both assured me its not an issue. Its also not limited to mine, a member on another forum spotted the same thing on his 4age crank whilst he had his sump off replacing the sump gasket and thought he had spun a bearing. part of the manufacturing process where they linish the castings.

[Casey-G]

...part of the manufacturing process where they linish the castings.

*forging flash

aint cast bro

[dangdang]

Yes, correct Case, forged, cross drilled Mr T toughness

[Dongaz]

Wow, I've missed a lot on here. Good to see you got the crank dangdang.

Ok, with all the talk of making a crank girdle I have already thought of going down this process....and it is not cheap!!

If you wanted the girdle to be a one piece, inclusive of main caps...take out a loan. The block of steel to machine that is a ridiculous price to begin with. Then you have the machining cost on top.

I did how ever have the idea of having my mate machine up a girdle that would sit on top of the std main caps and it would also get bolted to the area that the sump bolts to. The problem with this was not the material, as I was able to get that but getting ARP studs that are usable.

I sent an email off to ARP as there was not any studs available off the shelf anywhere. So be were wanting ARP 2000 Series M10 x 1.25 studs on both ends to have the correct torque on the caps.

This is what I received back from ARP:

"I don’t show a stud in standard inventory that would be M10 x 1.25 on each end, in the length needed and in the ARP 2000 material. In standard inventory we offer ones that are M10 x 1.5 on one end and M10 x 1.25 on the other. You can use these studs with a 1.5 nut, however, you would lose the allen broach as that would be on the 1.25 end that would thread into the block. Let me know if you would like to use one of those, if not I can have our manufacturing department quote you on having them custom made with a 1.25 thread on each end."

So then I asked him to find out how much it would cost to get a set custom made up.....this is what I got back:

"I’ve gotten an estimate of around $900-$1100 to do a custom run on the studs. It appears the lead time is shorter than expected, as the turn around time will be 6-8 weeks from the time the order is placed."

I almost died!!!

So unless you have really really deep pockets for a 4AGE then it is so not worth the cost to do that kind of plate. If you want to spend that money just go down the route of a dry sump, it will cost just bout the same and you should not have any oiling issues as well.

Hope this helps.

Dongaz

[oldeskewltoy]

Been doing some "collecting" as of late

[Sam_Q]

Dongaz: why not just go for the 1.5mm pitchnuts?

[dangdang]

Exactly, losing the allen head broach wouldnt be an issue as the studs only have to be snugged home by hand.

How much for your friend to make up a girdle Dongaz? And from what material exactly? Interesting stuff...

[beerhead]

I'm a little confused about people complaining about the cheap moly cranks not being balanced - they balance the rotating assembly - so they need the rods and pistons your using to counterweight the crank correctly I would have thought.

Girdles work - mates 2JZ is meant to reliable to 1600hp with the new built motor he has - without around the 1000hp mark from most accounts. Needs tunnel boring but well worth it on a high spec motor.

[banana_socks]

I'm a little confused about people complaining about the cheap moly cranks not being balanced - they balance the rotating assembly - so they need the rods and pistons your using to counterweight the crank correctly I would have thought.

The pistons and rods should all be balanced to achieve the same weight also. No point balancing a crank to suit an eccentric set of pistons/rods.

Re the ARP quote, it doesn't surprise me one bit. The studs are precision items, and setting up a custom run would require a bit of work. It's not the kinda thing you usually make a couple of sets, more like hundreds or thousands.

Can't see why the studs they suggested couldn't be used though.

[allencr]

Standard crank FTW.

I don't care for the factory finish of this journal's oil port.
http://i1222.photobucket.com/albums/...ottomend10.jpg

If it isn't a 10+ year old crank that was made when these engines were in production,
it's from a small batch run that may have been done by the original OEM supplier or may have been done in China by the lowest bidder, I think it is something in between.
Either way I'd clean up that crude looking countersink with a smooth as possible radius to blend it in. It'll help embed the smegma you've left in the engine & tear up the bearing a bit less.
*******
Also, have you re-check the clearances the right way?