Keeping my underbonnet temps down. plenty of Qs.

[oldcorollas]

ask the people that applied the coating...

[MWP]

who makes that inlet plenum? its for a gen-2 3S-GTE yea?

Thats a custom jobbie.
The stock plenum has been cut off and a new one welded on.
You can see the normal factory TVIS runners.

Waste of time if you ask me... just use a TVIS 3SGE manifold if you want a side entry like that.

[JP]

that intake manifold was made by Craig @ Extreme Custom Engineering in Archerfield, QLD. He does excellent fabrication work.

[MWP]

No doubt he does do good work, just that manifold would produce almost no power gains over the factory item.

[mattysshop]

MWP - Edited to not annoy you...

[MWP]

I dont get it... why are you defending him and showing off an unrelated manifold (with super huge annoying photos too)??
Do you work for the guy or something?
This is getting waaaay off topic.

I wasnt saying his fab work or welding wasnt any good.
I was saying that using the factory 8 runner TVIS bottom half is not a good idea.
Its like the "polishing a turd" statement... whats the point of going to all that trouble (new plenum, port & polish, etc), if your doing to use the factory runners which are no good for high end performance?

[KENut]

Mild Steel
I've heard from a guy that does a bit of track work that mild steel can crystalize and break when heat wrapped with track temps.. i plan on doing track days. anyone heard of this?

Quite a few variables with whether or not it will crack, but yes it is possible. The main thing is how hot will it get? It will be hotter with heat wrap clearly. The rate at which the steel is heated AND cooled is important too. If there is decent air flow through the engine bay to keep things cool it should be ok. But your engine bay will be virtually just as hot with heat wrap anyway after a good few laps/long drive.

[the_random_hero]

Heat wrap is the devil. Have seen a LOT of well-made headers crack within 6 months-1 year due to them being wrapped. Step 1 is to ceramic coat, step 2 is to insulate things that might get hot elsewhere (ie. heater hoses, etc). The ACL stuff is great, I'd use it to shield your turbo and exhaust.
Don't forget you can ceramic coat a lot of things - fuel rails, plenums, intake piping, rocker covers, etc. Most of the time it's cheaper than powder coating and won't ever come off, plus looks good + stops rust.



All of that cost me around the $250 mark including having everything stripped/soaked in carb-sol, sand blasted, rust-proofed (steel only obviously) and then heat + colour coated.

[TRDcelica90]

thanks guys.. ill be making a custom heat shield with the ACL stuff for the ex mani and will apply light wrapping of wrap to dump..

also block off alternator and oil filter

[senn]

maybe chuck a small ACL-material shield around your brake and clutch master too! Boiling the fluids won't be doing the seals in those systems any favours :/

[Cuts]

lol brake clutch masters are about as far from real heat in a gtfour engine bay as you can get.

[senn]

ah i should have looked harder at WHO said boiling dot5 fluid is annoying, my bad, it wasn't the OP

[WDE_BDY]

Just a quick 30cent upgrade to get heat down is to pack your bonnet bolts with washers...(might need longer bonnet bolts) give the bonnet an inch or so gap so it doesn't close flush where the hinges are...
Did this on my mates R32GTR you can watch the heat pouring out after a hard hoot..

Don't do this. Many cars have locking hooks built into the hinges to support the bonnet in a frontal accident, if you space it up then they don't lock in and its more likely the bonnet wil be forced back in through the windscreen. Not good for keeping your head attached to your body.

Callum

[Cuts]

there is usually a rubber strip at the back of the engine bay (that seals to the bonnet, if your that keen on seeing the heat then remove that insted of spacing the bonnet up

[Duk]

there is usually a rubber strip at the back of the engine bay (that seals to the bonnet, if your that keen on seeing the heat then remove that insted of spacing the bonnet up

This doesn't work. When the car is actually moving, there is a higher pressure at the base of the windscreen. Potentially air could flow into the engine bay via the gap at the back of the when the car is at speed.
Car manufacturers do have a pretty decent idea of how air does and doesn't move around the car and thru the engine bay.

All of this talk about reducing heat in the engine bay and nobody has suggested he do anything about that pod filter that is directly behind the radiator