Underbonet & Intake temps

[Alchemist]

Hi Guys,

Well it's summer, and isn't my car letting me know it, runs great guns for about the first 30minutes, then once it heatsoak starts setting in it still runs OK, but I'd hazard a guess that my intake temps are very very high.

Why? Well firstly because I have a Pod filter that isn't boxed(I'm working on that either finding a factory airbox to put back in, or boxing the pod). But I also have a nice set of extractors, now they are heat wrapped, but still make a bugger load of head, and the pipe that goes from my pod filter to the T/B is steel and has to run right above the extractors.(see pic below)



The end result, when I got out of my car after a trip home, all the metal on the air intake is really hot, the pod everything, so even if the filter was getting cold air, I have a feeling the heat of the piping it was travelling through would heat it up considerably(does it? and the super hot intake temps is what's making the car sluggish....

Because I'm moving a my alarm siren from where it is, moving the pod closer to the front of the car(or putting in factory airbox) and I'm going to get some new piping made up, and I was thinking coatings. I've looked at HPC coating my intake pipe, do you think it's worth it? I'm just trying to slow the heat soak so the car doesn't become sluggish too quickly.

Next on the agenda for summer is the OEM Euro bonnet scoop, might help keep things cool, not all that expensive either...

[Joorsh]

If you're in sydney, there's a mob called "Competition Coatings" that do ceramic coating. I got most of my engine done and it's done wonders for underbonnet temps. I took my car for a good thrash today in the 30 degree heat, and my temp didn't budge from one below halfway the whole time. The tripple core rad probably helps too... and the airbox.

I'd probably look at a CAI & airbox before you go ceramic coating though.

[Alchemist]

Thanks, what does it cost (roughly). Yea I'm planning on a CAI or standard box, just trying to get it all sorted out in my head

My engine temps sit one below half way no matter much much driving, or sitting still in traffic.

I'm just trying to remove the sluggishness I'm getting once the car gets hot. I didn't have this prob in winter, and Glen keeps telling me I should stop being gay and I should buy a factory airbox and put it in....as he had the same prob in his MA61.

[CrUZida]

Box it.
I went from a brand new pod filter on my 1uz, to fitting the factory 1986 5mge Cressida airbox, dodgy plumbed up with downpipe and silicon, and a filter that was a couple of years old, and the difference was huge.

The response with the airbox was much much better than with the pod filter.
It took me a bit to realise what I'd done to cause the change.

[Joorsh]

I believe Mr toyota spent a fair bit of time & money researching on the 'ol airbox didn't he? Designed the volume and shape of it for optimal torque & response or some such.

[Alchemist]

Ya true that, car came with the pod though. Alrite, I've got a guy on Supraforums that wants to sell me the whole airbox shebang for $200, I might snap that up. Do you see any problems using factory airbox with custom steel piping to the t/b? As using all the factory piping hits my extractors, and would melt.....

[Norbie]

Sounds like a good plan, but I would suggest getting the pipe ceramic coated to stop all that heated getting into the inlet system.

[Joorsh]

Heat soak properties of steel aren't so great. I'd be thermo wrapping that sucker, or ceramic coating it if you can. You'll see the biggest gains from the airbox + cai though. If you still have some cash left over after that, get ceramic coating or heat wrap... or both. For just a straight simple bit of footlong 3 inch pipe, you'd be looking at less than $100 for ceramic coating.

[Alchemist]

Pardon the ignorance here, but since I have all the smart, wise people replying to me thread at the moment(god bless the new forums). When you say Airbox + CAI, is that like using the factory airbox but plumbing some cold air into the box from somewhere else in the car, like using that aircon ducting from the front left vent up to a hole in the airbox?

[Joorsh]

Although your idea is rather ingenious, most poeple don't bother to go to those lenghts with the aircon, and instead just plumb up some cooler air from a hole somewhere in the front bar :-)

In the grand scale of things, on a 30 odd degree heat day you're probably looking at about 90 degree underbonnet temps, and maybe 20 degree air coming from the aircon. It's a lot of farting about to get air from the aircon to the inlet, and it's only going to save you around 10 degrees or so - which will probably be more than offset by the effort of running the aircon :-) Plus when all you're doing to trying to get the temps down from 90, 10 degrees really aint that much, so it's just easier to get the ambient 30 degree air from the front bar :-)

[Alchemist]

I wasn't intending on running cold air from the aircon into the airbox(although, not a bad idea, but definately not worth it), I was just meaning ducting air from the front vents using that very bendy aircon ducting you can get from hardware house.

[oldcorollas]

you could alos look at making radiation shields (no not that kind ) to sit between the extractors and the intake pipes.. sayy.. two 0.5mm thick aluminium sheets, with a cm or so airgap between them... that will stop the extractors directly heating the intake pipe...

[Camryman]

I was thinking that myself, there needs to be a heat shield for the extractors. Might also get TRD bonnet vents for the Supra.

[Alchemist]

The TRD bonet is a little much for my Supra, plenty of vents, but more bling than I am looking for.

Anyway a solution has been found, making a aluminium heatshield to go between extractors and intake piping, getting aluminum piping for intake, making custom aluminimum box for pod filter,although we are going to try a unifilter one instead of my HKS one as supposedly they flow better, anyway I'll take some pics when I get it all done, need to play with cardboard to get the shapes right first.

[RWDboy]

Best bet is to get the extractors ceramic coated ... why? Because that way more heat gets retained in the exhaust gases and then shot out the back of the car, rather than simply fighting a losing battle trying to direct heat around the engine bay

Hot intake pipes may have some small effect on your intake temperatures, but i doubt it's the reason that your car feels sluggish -check for ECU error codes, it could be that the intake temp sensor is getting buggerised around as well by the lack of heat protection, or it could be a water temp sensor fault (if the car is only sluggish when warmed up).