Help with 1JZ Harmonic Balancer bolt removal

[ReQuieM]

This will teach me for trying to do things myself!

Sorry but thats just stupid, doing things yourself is the best way to do shit. Next time, do a wee bit of research before hand and remember that anything you need to do to the car WILL take 2-3x longer then you think even if you have all the parts, all the tools and researched! lol. If you need it done now, no mater what, THEN take it to pro.

Try and enjoy it.

[GeneStarWindGSW]

Just noticed topguns post, mine was the same, but I just used a wide flat long piece of ali. Two holes for the balancer and one big hole for the braker socket to slip through. I can take a photo of it if you need. No welding needed, just a drill and two drill bits.

could u take a photo of that tool, so i could make one? i'm having the same issue with my 1jz and my crank pulley.

[Herus]

I know ReQuieM, I do enjoy it, and I did do a bit of research on what I needed to do, just it didnt work for me!

There is always more then 1 way to undo a crank bolt though, and I will get there eventually.

I got my replacement today, and no wonder its hard to undo, the fricken bolt is huge!

Herus

[BEVANI]

had the same problem wit mine... sprayed and soaked it in wd40 for about half hour then breaker bar wit a 2m long steel pole on the end for leverage, jammed a large flat head screw driver onto the ring gear usuing one of the gearbox bolts.. that was wit the motor out of the car... and i weigh 110kgs... got it off... made one hell of a snapping sound... i thought i had snapped the head clean off lol... but good old wd40 or the loctite freeze spray should help... just a stubborn bolt... there is always one hey..

[big_zop]

Have you seen this thread yet - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47316?

[mxracer92]

ive had some tough ones too , so i made this tool up .. never failed as yet .. YOU WONT BREAK THE TOOL or bend it so go hard !!!

it started out as a 1metre long bar but i found it to be more effective at this length just put it in upright postion and crank the starter .. it just clears the battery and smashes on the ground , cracking the bolt.

if its a really tough one , just place it so it has more swing.
dodgey but effective !

[Mr.Phreak]

Damn that's sketchy

[Herus]

Thanks for the ideas guys, my bolt is too round to do anything with now other then weld something on there. Im talking to a mate with a welder to get him to sort it out for me.

Herus

[PlacentaJuan]

get a metrinch kit if you dont want to weld.

they will lock onto a rounded head like you wouldnt believe.

[manny]

Too late now for Herus with a rounded bolt but this is what I had made up quite a few years ago modelled on the Toyota OEM SST for the JZ/UZ crank removal.
It's been used to remove and refit at least 15 seperate 1JZ/2JZ/1UZ engine's crank bolts over the last 10 years even when all else had failed for desperate owners.
A 4 foot jack handle slides over it for extra leverage and in conjunction with a decent 4 foot breaker bar and quality deep socket (as well as pipe extensions if necesary) has never let us down - we have had to have two of us hang off it until it cracked the bolt on a few occasions but it has saved a lot of head ache.
With a strategically machined lip on the underside, it even acts as a puller for the pulley by dislodging it off the crank nose the first inch or so.
If anyone on the Central Coast gets desperate, PM me and we can discuss loaning it out.

Top view

Back view

Side view

Side view with UZZ32 extension for double depth pulley

OEM Version

[ReQuieM]

Yup manny, thats like the one I posted. I was going to make something similar, but couldn't make it to a metal shop in time so made this out of a scrap bit of ali. Worked a treat but it would be better to have the bolts sheathed al the way to the pully face like yours

Heres mine:

[Herus]

An update for you all.
I took the engine to a mechanic friend of mine, and he managed to get the stupid bolt out.
It took a LOT of heat, and eventually, he was able to use the rattle gun to remove it.

Just some advice for the people that have a stuck bolt....
Use a hex socket, not one of those shit multisided ones.
Use Impact sockets if you can, they arent all that expensive.
Power bars do work, but its probably better that you stop the engine from spinning using one of the tools shown above and use a long breaker bar if a rattlegun is unavailable to you.

Thanks for all the help guys, if nothing else, this has been a good learning experience, and a chance to spend some extra cash on my car that I wasnt planning to yet. (Upgraded exhuast should be awesome!)

Herus

[EldarO]

multisided ones are ok, just make sure they're good quality

my Kichrome set has taken apart 60+ motors and never stripped anything, its sheared some shit off, but you cant really help that.

i dunno whether it has to do with the peripheral drive they use or not, but i had a 1800mm jack pole and i was literally hanging off it, bouncing as hard as i could to get my bolt undone, and it came through with the goods

[andrew_mx83]

Use a hex socket, not one of those shit multisided ones.

always use these for uber tight bolts man

impact sockets are pretty good to use on tight stuff too. except i had one shatter on me when trying to take wheel spacers off an FC we bought once, had about 2m of extension on it and it flew apart into about 5 pieces, one took a chunk out of my arm

[Herus]

Ouch!

We managed to warp one trying to get this bolt off.
Oh well...