Help with 1JZ Harmonic Balancer bolt removal

[EldarO]

always use these for uber tight bolts man

impact sockets are pretty good to use on tight stuff too. except i had one shatter on me when trying to take wheel spacers off an FC we bought once, had about 2m of extension on it and it flew apart into about 5 pieces, one took a chunk out of my arm

pics or it didnt happen!

[andrew_mx83]

haha this was years ago back when a "good" phone camera was VGA lol.

would have made a good photo tho.
we ended up having to grind the studs out of the hub, and restud both fronts

[andrew_mx83]

i know its a bit of a thread dig, but thought id post up a good solution i had to use on a 7m-gte i was pulling apart today (out of the car)

bent 3 bolts & broke 1 in the back of the crank where i tried to lock it up with a big long bar against the ground (bent the bar right up too) from using so much leverage at the front end.

rattle gun for half an hour and still no dice

ended up pulling the sump off and blocking up the crank counterweights against the inside of the block with a spark plug socket. all it took then was lots of an extension on the breaker bar to get it undone.... no way the engine was gonna turn now!

completely knackered the breaker bar but finally its off!

[Dale]

A block of wood might be a more elegant solution than a spark plug socket

[Bowlsclubboy]

I tried 2 different compressors (including and ingersol rand) and a few varieties of rattle guns - blue point, wurth and cheapo and the only way i could remove my 1jz crank bolt was with that loctite freeze spray, that stuff is the best $10 you can spend when you need it.

[andrew_mx83]

i have a really shitty little compressor.... really doesnt have the balls to drive the rattle gun. even tho i dont think a good one would have helped in this case


will try thr locktite stuff one day cheers

[Norbie]

ended up pulling the sump off and blocking up the crank counterweights against the inside of the block with a spark plug socket. all it took then was lots of an extension on the breaker bar to get it undone.... no way the engine was gonna turn now!

My preferred method for holding a crank still is a small length of chain, one end bolted to the outside of the flywheel/flex plate and the other end bolted to some place on the block. As soon as the chain is tensioned there's no way that crank is going to spin any further. Your method works just as good of course but it's a lot more messy!

[andrew_mx83]

dont think the bolts holding the chain into the flywheel end would have been upto it. as i said i sheared 1 off by using a bar and bent another 3.

maybe i should buy a couple of high tensile bolts for next time, it isnt always convenient to pull the sump off! this time i already had all the bolts out anyway as im stripping it, i just decided to get the bastard bolt undone before pulling much more apart

[Norbie]

Do the bolt up tight and nothing will bend/break. It worked for me, and I went through the same dramas you did trying to get that damn bolt off. My favourite breaker bar was never the same after that.

[andrew_mx83]

mine is well and truly munted lol.

i have no idea how it got that out of shape considering there was a pole over it and and another, longer pole on that


bolts in the crank were done up til they bottomed out.... sheared right on the crank flange

[pato]

this is why u should all get manuals.
then u dont have this stupid problem

5th gear,
someone in the car pusing on the brake as hard as they can
breaker bar thats taller than i am.

dont even have to try

[andrew_mx83]

only good if the motor is still in the car. and i just shove a socket up somewhere in the tailshaft and block it up at the uni or the diff or whatever

[Norbie]

5th gear,
someone in the car pusing on the brake as hard as they can
breaker bar thats taller than i am.

Tried that one first, the clutch just slipped - and that was an aftermarket clutch with a high-clamp pressure plate. Also it's not much help for those with automatic transmissions.

[ReQuieM]

see pic of improvised tool I posted at the top of the page. Win-Win-Win.

[JZA70 R]

this is why u should all get manuals.
then u dont have this stupid problem

5th gear,
someone in the car pusing on the brake as hard as they can
breaker bar thats taller than i am.

dont even have to try

it says to do that in the manual??? what do you do if you have a auto?

i tried a similar thing but i used the handbrake instead. this method didnt work because of all the slack in the gearbox/gears/components, i could swing the breaker bar 45' and it still wouldnt take up all the slack... no torque was being transferred through to the crank bolt.

like whats said above you really NEED to lock the crank and completely exclude the gearbox from the equation.

only good if the motor is still in the car. and i just shove a socket up somewhere in the tailshaft and block it up at the uni or the diff or whatever

my motor was on an engine stand and all i did to crack the bolt was to find some old flywheel bolts and a length of flat bar to wedge in between the bolts. as i turned the crank the flat bar would jam up against the engine stand mounting points at the back of the engine. it was a 100% solid lock and cracked the crank bolt no problems...