Thats the plan....
Really not what I wanted to do, but things never seem to work easily for me![]()
If taking the engine out is an option makes it a hell of a lot easier do all the servicing etc you can while shes out!
RA23 - Twincharged
JZZ20 - Daily
Thats the plan....
Really not what I wanted to do, but things never seem to work easily for me![]()
Thats always the way isnt it champ?![]()
RA23 - Twincharged
JZZ20 - Daily
ouch, it seems weird the problems you are having,
I had some issues on the 1UZ i just did the timing belt on, I layed under the car with a pry bar in tourque converter, I tried in between the teeth and bell housing and I also tried in between the bolt head and bellhousing. ( I can't remeber what got it) Then a mate of mine had my 1.5 metre pipe on the breaker bar. Twas tight but it just cracked and was then hand tight.
I would suggest maybe a deep socket so that it goes over the whole bolt head nut just the front section.
I have used this method for years manual and auto cars. Mainly on M's and the 1UZ plus a few magna's.
I will say that I bought a good quaility rattle gun a few months ago and the 3 engines I've had that on it hasn't got the crank bolt. The 2 engines I had out of the cars I had to use bolts into fly wheels and chain to hold the flywheel still and then a bar and pipe on the crank bolt.
Bang there is an idea, If you didn't want to shove something in the teeth, get an over length bolt for the torque converter, put it through a chain and then attach chain to either bell housing bolts or a point on the chassis.
things to be careful of you will probably bend the bolt and be wary of pulling in out of the torque converter.
Just some ideas. Sounds like you have a tight one there.
ST177 UZS131 Crown Royal 'G' the pimping limo like daily 1UZFE 144rwkw
DST17T MS53 68 Crown Custom Wagon 7MGTE 266rwkw
Tight isnt the word for it!
We managed to warp a 22mm impact socket trying to get the thing undone.
I will make some phone calls today, but otherwise the engine is coming out...
Herus
ok you do have issues
good luck
ST177 UZS131 Crown Royal 'G' the pimping limo like daily 1UZFE 144rwkw
DST17T MS53 68 Crown Custom Wagon 7MGTE 266rwkw
mate i had plenty of trouble with me cressidas 7m trying to get teh bolt out, so i made this up
just a bit of 6mm flat bar welded together with some holes drilled (making sure there is enough room for your socket to go between the tabs!!!!!)
just position your hamonic balancer so the "tool" sits just below the passenger side subframe and bolt it up...
find the biggest length of bar you can get under your bonnet, slip it over a breaker bar (not your ratchet!!) and apply constant pressure until bolt is broken... handy for tightenig up the suckers too...
dont know how much value this will have, but there ya go
cheers,
tim
Last edited by topgun137; 20-10-2009 at 03:05 PM. Reason: pictures were too small
Originally Posted by gold28
i cannot believe you cant get it undone with the starter motor cranking option
get a PROPER rattle gun impact socket. a big breaker bar and do it that way.
maybe even wak some of that freezeandrealease locktite shit in
took me 2 trys last year on my ~15 year old 1JZ. and it worked fine.
Topgun, awesome Idea, will look at making something like that next time!
Coff33, We used a PROPER Rattle gun impact socket. This wasnt a cheapie.
Starter motor cranking didnt even thing about it.
The engine is out now, and I will be trying what I can while its on the ground.
Herus
for next time mate just use the starter motor it is the easiest by far.
put a socket on the crank bolt with a breaker bar, align the bar so that if the engine turns in its normal direction of rotation the bar will hit a chassis rail or something similary meaty. can use the ground bbut i dont like this method.
make sure the engine will crank but not fire (plug lead off or similar) and give it a second or 2 of crank. will come lose for sure.
Andrew, Thats what I started with. It didnt work.
Im up to getting someone to weld a socket around it, so that we can pull it off that way.
So bloody frustrating!
Hah I had the same problem with my 7m bolt. In the end it took a 3/4inch rattle gun to get it off... and even then it took a couple goes.
SHE LIVES!
1984 MA61, 1998 Honda Hornet CB600F
I've got gone through this on a 2J, you need this tool;
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...motiveQ5fTools
Use that to lock the pully, then use a braker bar with a 'cheater bar' (LONG pole that slips over the breaker handle) and pull like a mofo. This worked for me, when impact wrenches, starter trick and lock tight spray didn't.
I didn't buy that tool but made one myself out of 10mm thick ali, just make sure you get fresh high tensile bolts cos you probably will bend them slightly.
I almost, forgot if you were in vic, I'd lend it but I just noticed your in sa, so sorry![]()
Just noticed topguns post, mine was the same, but I just used a wide flat long piece of ali. Two holes for the balancer and one big hole for the braker socket to slip through. I can take a photo of it if you need. No welding needed, just a drill and two drill bits.
Definately on my to try list next time.
This will teach me for trying to do things myself!
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