RWD 1MZFE Has anyone actually done it?

[Norbie]

Pics of sump and clearance problems?

I recently had to modify the steel section of a 1UZ sump, it's really not that hard if you have access to a welder and plenty of patience. Even creating a whole new one, using only the original lip which bolts to the alloy corset, is very much doable.

[TurboRA28]

The pic I put up previously doesn't show it too good..

But what is happening is where the tin bolts to the alloy section is hovering over the top of the xmember and I want the engine as low as possible, so allowing say 2cm of clearance here. Means I have to cut and weld very close to the lip section.

Not a huge drama. Just would have been nice if the tin section all sat infront of the xmember and didn't start over the top of it.

The pickup is almost touching the xmember itself..

[WDE_BDY]

As for the auto bellhousing to W5x adaptor, yep could be done but then you'd need to lengthen the thrust bearing slide tube and use a fancy Tilton style central slave cylinders. My understanding is they don't have that much throw (about 15mm) so you'd have to get a pretty fancy clutch to go with it. Costs really start adding up.

What was kind of cool about my original premise was that you could use cheap, readily available items.

I understand the auto bellhousings for the 1UZ are shorter than the manual bellhousing for the W5X box so thrust bearing is not an issue. This was definitely the case when I compared my 4V auto bellhousing and 16mm ish adaptor to my 18RG to W55 bellhousing. Swapped the box over and thrust bearing lined up just fine. So if the V6 bellhousing is similar it could be one less issue.
You are definitely right about the clutch though, either have to cut up the bellhousing and mount a fork or run a tilton style slave. My 4V setup has clutch fork etc, but if I need to relocate the starter then a hydraulic release bearing may be the only option.

Callum

[gianttomato]

I'll measure up the UZ bellhousing and my 18R-W50 bellhousing. It was slightly modified - the bellhousing to gearbox mating surface was milled down 6mm so the input shaft could engage the spigot bearing. Will post up the measuements tonight.

From memory the 1MZ has quite a deep lip around the flywheel/ring gear but the 3/5VZ do not. Fitting a VZ auto bellhousing to an MZ seems simple enough but then there's the extra distance that the lip intoduces - you need to take that into account. This is why I believe the thrust bearing carrier tube might need to be lengthened.

Very happy to be proven wrong of course.

[Norbie]

But what is happening is where the tin bolts to the alloy section is hovering over the top of the xmember and I want the engine as low as possible, so allowing say 2cm of clearance here. Means I have to cut and weld very close to the lip section.

Not a huge drama. Just would have been nice if the tin section all sat infront of the xmember and didn't start over the top of it.

The pickup is almost touching the xmember itself..

Sounds very similar to what I had to do with the 1UZ, although in my case it was to clear the steering link rather than the crossmember. The oil pickup had to be modified as well. There are pics in my build thread if you're interested.

A bit of a pain but like you say not a huge drama. And let's face it, if this conversion was easy you wouldn't be the first to do it!

[TurboRA28]

Dont worry gay idea.. deleted..

[ToySprinta]

Hey guys, something that might interest you....

Looks like a headfuck so far, but gonna worth it

Its not sitting straight, and I'm going to lower the subframe a bit too...

more pics here http://s129.photobucket.com/albums/p...%20Conversion/

[twentyEight]

RWD 2GR-FE!

That's awesome!

[TurboRA28]

Thread of build exist?

[big_zop]

Starts on post #53 - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...t=21137&page=3

[twentyEight]

Thread of build exist?

Only really the price and the same pic as above in his thread.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showth...=aurion&page=3

[ToySprinta]

Not yet all you see in the photobucket folder is where I'm up to
it's a track car so I'm thinkin I'm just gonna mount the starter on the gbox side.
Having similar sump issues and thinking about trumpets cos standard plenum ( which is reversable with a spacer ) will cause big clearance issues
I'll update it soon.

[vidar540]

Hi there. Nice to see that 1MZ is getting attention, I think it a very potential engine, has a very good bottom end design and can handle lot of power with good rods. My TA22 was waiting for a 1MZ and I am putting a close ratio ZF gearbox on it but the ZF ended on a VQ35 Nissan. For some time the VQ35 was the engine for my TA22 and then a 1stgen 3SGTE and now I see all this talk about 1MZ..

Here is a link to pics of 1MZ+ZF and VQ35+ZF. The bellhousing I used is of a fwd auto and hacked the diff part off. .enjoy.

http://picasaweb.google.com/vidar540/DropBox#

[RA40-Rossco]

wanta do a 1mz to a W series addaptor - i think id be up for the 1mz celica chalange

[old_school_jap1]

Gianttomato, just wondering why you dismissed the 3Y bellhousing? Plenty of people run them on 3Ss and don't have a problem with their concentricity. Anyways here's some measurements/pic of the 3Y item:


That pic has the SA63 2S bellhousing dimensions on it also. The very top right hole needs to be welded & re-drilled to work in an S/V6 application. Now if you look at the SA63 item:


You can see that on the 3Y bellhousing the starter is positioned a bit lower (albeit on the other side), this may cure the starter in the cylinder bank problem that the SA63 bellhousing has. my 2c