RWD 1MZFE Has anyone actually done it?

[Adsport]

I should have my hands on a Y series bellhousing this weekend so can take some measurements.

Interested in your starter motor ideas?

Measurements would be appreciated.

Well im pretty sure i can mount it and get it to work by having the starter mounted rearward. ive been looking at cars in general while on the hoist and there seems to be a lot of potential space down low near the level of the floorpan. The idea ive had is to cut out the section where an SW20 starter mounts and graft that rearward down low on the opposite side of where the clutch slave mounts . this gives it a rock solid mount that works originally and the only problem might be the distance offset from the block which is tweakable. I was sitting there looking at the mock-up i had trying to figure out the negatives but despite the obvious of mounting it too high and possible ground clearance which could be solved with precise mounting I havent really been able to think of any tangible reason why it shouldnt work.

[TurboRA28]

Thanks for sharing that.. If I cant get my hands on a GT adapter plate I may follow something similar. Or carve out the block section and cut/weld on the starter motor mounts in correct location on a suitable bellhousing..

[RA40-Rossco]

The 3Y and 2S bellhousings that you guys are/intend to use.... how deep are they? i did some measurements after work today . with a 6201 bearing (turns out to be same as 1JZ/7M list goes on) slapped into the 1MZ crank as a spigot support and a W58 in its natural position once installed i get a measurement of ~160mm depth for a bellhousing to be correct. I have had a look at the starter motor issue aswell and have an idea which hopefully will come fruitful. its lucky that we have like 5 MZ motors in various stages on assembly and almost every random bit from most popular toyo's to mess about with haha


edit: tristan and I have been discussing getting ali flanges for the sump laser cut possibly which could be done in a batch so if anybody is keen chime in. I think it would be good to be able to supply them as a flat plate or maybe just a plate with enough of a hole to run a very forward sump (like joel's) and people can fab up a box for a sump to suit their needs.

i measured up my falcon with a supra 5spd in it (yea i know ill get slapped on here and the ford forums ) its 160mm or there abouts

if your thinking the same as i am for the starter motor, move the mount down lower on the LH bank i think would be ideal - no steering box to try and have to make the exhaust fit through

some more photo's of the mothers v6 MCV36, starter flange is 85mm out from the block face too btw

[TurboRA28]

Well the Y series bellhousing seems to be looking like a good thing. 3 bolt holes line up and 2 dowels..
With some elongating another bolt hole will line up.. Any others would need some work but I think 4 is ok thats what I ran on my 3s/y bellhousing and never caused problems.

The Y series housing puts the starter motor in what seems to be a pretty good spot, another 10mm lower would be good but I think its ok. The block webbing can be removed from the area the starter wants to sit I believe.

So all in all looking good.. Just have to get my hands on a Y starter motor and also maybe a S starter motor as I believe that is what I used on my 3S as the Y starter hit the steering column if memory serves me correctly..

[RA40-Rossco]

any photo's of the position, whats the depth of the bellhousing, being a Y series bellhousing it will only take a W50 wont it not a W55 etc?

and the always important, does it look central to the crank

[TurboRA28]

Nah Y goes to W55 etc.. 170mm deep..
Will check if central to crank tomorrow.

[RA40-Rossco]

Nah Y goes to W55 etc.. 170mm deep..
Will check if central to crank tomorrow.

im liking this then!

170mm is a fraction too deep i think, 160 is the sweet spot

[TurboRA28]

With the 3s I ran a double row spigot so the input shaft was still supported.. Seems its going to be the same for the 1mz..

[Adsport]

you could always just get some material milled off either face of the bellhousing to bring it in closer

[TurboRA28]

You will all be very excited to know that the Y series bellhousing lines the input shaft up spot on with the crank.

It also puts the starter in a near perfect spot for material removal from block.

I've started to cut away the block and its getting very close to fitting nicely.

Im on my way out now to find a spigot that will suit..

[twentyEight]

That's awesome news Joel, glad that it suits.

If you don't need that R to W5# bellhousing that I sent you, then I think River may be able to make use of it. Pretty sure he's thinking of gong manual for his Yellow RA28, and I'm sure he be happy to pay for postage on it.

[RA40-Rossco]

shit hot im loving this!

[old_school_jap1]

Happy it all worked out for you Joel, it was all purely theoretical on my part; if the S pattern equals the V6 patterns and the Y bellhousings work fine on S motors how could it not work?!? Methinks GT tried the wrong bellhousing or something. The Y bellhousing should work even easier with a 3VZFE as I believe they already have a space for the starter in the block right where the Y bellhousing would put the starter

[TurboRA28]

Well the bellhousing is all bolted up now.. I had to elongate 1 hole and tap another into the block where there was a hole already but no thread.

I have finished grinding the block and the v6 4runner starter motor just fits in there.. I had to also elongate a hole on the Y bellhousing so the v6 starter bolts to it.

Everything looks lovely..

I found a spigot that supports the crank nicely.. It is 32od, 12id and 15.9mm deep which gives the input shaft around 10mm of support.

Cant remember if I mentioned it but I took the week off to get 1mz progress done..

Day 1 complete.. 4 more to go..

Tomorrow will be engine mounts and start on the sump.

[TurboRA28]

Pics..