2jz-ge ecu/loom question...

[misk]

m doing a 2jzge-t conversion into an VH commodore using straight LPG in a carby style GRA setup.

after reading through the wiring diagrams for the 2jz-ge engine, ive realized ill be using sweet fuck all of the loom, and also 99% of the features of the ecu - due to running straight LPG carby style in a non supra car.

will the ECU freak out without most of the shit connected (injectors, alot of the sensors etc)?
i'll really only be using the ignition shit...

it might be easier to just run an MSD true carby style ignition system with timing retard and fuck off the ECU all together...

any thoughts?
cheers

[wilbo666]

You should still hook up all the sensors to the ECU, you say you are planning to not hook up "a lot of sensors"...what sensors?

If you want the ECU to control the ignition correctly it will need its sensors hooked up!


The ECU does not check the injectors per say, it won't know if they are missing (There is no check engine code for say, low or high injector current...).

At a guess the ECU will likely throw the oxygen sensor check engine light due to the fact that it won't be able to run in closed loop (Look up closed loop if you don't know what it is ).

Cheers
Wilbo

[misk]

well i was planning to run as few sensors as possible, lets put it that way lol
i've just noticed the the ECU seems to be pretty involved in alot of processes, and really, for the ECU to control ignition, it should only need the trigger from the distributor i thought?

[wilbo666]

and really, for the ECU to control ignition, it should only need the trigger from the distributor i thought?

Umm, your ignition curve should be based on load right...

How is the engine ECU going to know about load if you take away the sensors it uses to determine load?!

How will the engine ECU knock retard if you remove the knock sensors...

etc

etc

I'm not sure if you are going about this the right way...



Cheers
Wilbo

[misk]

all a learning curve for me mate, hence why im asking these questions...
so all help is appreciated.
fact of the matter is, ive never seen a 2jz running straight gas, so got alot of questions and un known info.

[Norbie]

Wilbo is right, you want to hook up ALL sensors if you want it to run properly. It will be exactly the same as wiring up a regular 2JZ except for the injectors.

[gianttomato]

But the map will be all levels of fucked up for LPG turbo anyway. Stand alone IGN only ECU will reap best results.

[misk]

cool, as i said, all a learning curve atm, so just gathering info
cheers for the help

[andrew_mx83]

standalone ignition ftw

[misk]

me again lol

got some nice wiring digrams to read through.

anyone have a good understanding of how the distrubitor system on the 2jzge works?

does the distibutor tell the ECU the position of the engine, then the ECU tells the igniter when to send a signal to the coil? or vice versa?


im basically trying to figure out which wire on the distributor is the trigger wire so i can run a programmable igniton unit from it


edit - aslo is the distributor magnetic pickup?

[andrew_mx83]

how many wire on the dizzy?

[misk]

4 wires

found some more info.
apparently there is a few different pickups in the dizzy, but none that give the right trigger.

edit - there is g1 and G2 which gives near TDC for #1 and # 6 cyl and NE which delivers 24 triggers for RPM.

have a read through this http://autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf (it explains thw rokings of the distributor more than anything) , its a bit hectic lol but it matches the 2jzge wirig digrams i was reading earlier which meantioned g1, g2 etc.
they are the pickups inside the dizzy that are used by the ECU as reference for certain things.
this was the best info ive found so far

"""
This is all i can find at the moment - "..... I modded an NA dissy to run with my Wolf Standalone. I left it with 6 teeth and used a single Toyota trigger." Not sure about the hall sensor bit.

If you don't need the Ne signal, you could do the same. This might effect your tacho though. """

[andrew_mx83]

awesome link...thanks. i will have a proper read thru it over the weekend.

what ignition system are you trying to run?
i am having the same issues trying to drive the jaycar programmable ignition.

im guessing ur dizzy will be similar to the 7m one which also has 4 wires. there are 3 reluctor pickups inside, a 24 tooth and 2 single tooth pickups.

atm im looking at 2 options
a) grind off 2 in 3 teeth on the reluctor wheel.would probably have to grind the remaining ones down to a point to get a half decent signal but i dont think it will be very clean even then.
b) put a hall effect sensor in the dizzy out of another 6 cyl distributor. hall effect is a much cleaner signal and would hopefully give better results as it will be a bit of work.

[misk]

yeah i was looking at any form of trigger signal from the dizzy so i can run the jaycar unit with a CDI. and yes are both in the same situation regarding the sensors in the dizzy.

apparently the 6 teeth on the reluctor wheel works, but i also looked in to the hall effect.

but unless im confused (which i think i am lol), the hall effect will give a single trigger for reference when cranking over, and then the single trigger per revolution, could the G1 trigger not be used for the same?
or am i missing somehting in between


i just had someone suggest i use this unit http://www.msdignition.com/Products/..._Ignition.aspx

but that requires a custom crank trigger for magnetic pickups to be used, so doesnt really get around the trigger side of things

[andrew_mx83]

hall requires 3 wires so i dont c how u could use the reluctor setup that is there.

-ve
+5v
signal

maybe u could use the reluctor wheel to trigger the hall sensor.
i havent looked yet if hall sensors need 1 or 6 points. i think its still 6 but im not sure.


wat is the msd box worth? it doesnt seem to do a whole lot more than the jaycar one which is damn good value and as u say still has the trigger problem