2jz-ge ecu/loom question...

[misk]

the msd was $650usd, so a bit pricey for not much more really.

and i thought hall was only one sensor? lol

never thought this would be so hard to do.

how do you have yours firing at all using the jaycar unit?

[andrew_mx83]

nope. it is installed and the new loom in place but the original loom is still there and the ecu is running things. its giving me the shits.

when we tried to fire it up the hand controller showed 0rpm while cranking so i can only assume it is not getting a trigger signal. it should show at least 2-300 rpm you would think.

if hall is only 1 then it might be as simple as mounting the pickup in the dizzy and gutting the reluctor pickups but leaving the wheels.

the other option is to modify a 5me dizzy to fit, it has a single 6 point reluctor trigger with only 2 wires (perfect). but the shaft is way too long as it originally goes into the block. a bit of machining could make it work tho.


i never thought it would be this hard either! grrrr!

[misk]

theres some info on pickups here.
hall effect is one sensor with a wheel that consists of evenly spaced windows, which act as the actual trigger, blocking the magnetic signal.

so not sure if that would be as easy as we think to fit.

im off home now, so will look into this further later.
cheers for the help man, your the only other person needing the same info as me atm lol

[andrew_mx83]

was having a chat to the old man yesterday and we came up with an idea to minimise the butchering of the dizzy and should also keep the cost down

we were originally planning to gut the original dizzy of all the pickups on the body and the 3 wheels on the shaft then graft the wheel from (for example) any ford 6 cyl hall effect dizzy and probably have to use that rotor button as well.

in my dizzy the rotor button bolts onto that 24tooth wheel. we are thinking about machining up a thin plate, with the required 6 evenly spaced windows and bolting that between the rotor button and wheel. would probably need to remove some of the plastic shrouding on the rotor button to make this work.
then mount the ford hall pickup in the body of the original dizzy, somewhere between the original reluctors and run the wires out the back.

this will mean that the engine will still run on the ecu AND generate a hall signal. this will make setting up the rest of the ignition box a lot easier as i am no longer confident it will be an easy plug and play and i need to keep the car on the road. in theory the car could run on the ecu with the ignition box powered up and if the rpm on the hand controller matches the tacho then were in business!

[misk]

hmm well funny you suggest that, i have a few ford dizzys sitting in the garage, ill suss it out a bit this afternoon

[misk]

not really much progress, but had a bit of a plat around and the hall effect does seem to be very feesable.

would need to modifiy some of the other sensors as they are a bit higher than the wheel in the middle, but it can be done!

the underside of the rotor would need to be modded also as it wouldnt allow for another wheel to be placed in between, but its just some plastic that needs to be trimmed.

can see theres plenty of room for a hall sensor, would just need to make up a wheel that is around 6-7cm (havnt really measured properly) in diamater.

if all other sensors were gutted from the inside, the hall sensor and ford wheel would slot straight in with a few little mods here and there, which i might look at doing as i dont need any of the other sensors.

bare dizzy



with hall sensor



and the ford dizzy wheel compared to the toyota dizzy

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Do you just want to adjust the ignition timing? You would probably be better off intercepting the IGt signal (output of ecu to ignitor).

Otherwise if you are crafty with electronics, use a LM1915 to condition the VR signal and from the NE (36 pulse per camshaft revolution), divide by 6 and have 6 pulses per cam rev.

[misk]

yes and no
i need to add a CDI also, and i dont have any of the stock loom/ecu as i thought it wasnt needed lol.

so would like to find a way to get this working.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Use the output of the ignitor to trigger a CDI module. With the stock ecu, the factory ignitor will need to be retained for IGf (feedback) to prevent a code, and possibly limp-home mode from engaging.

[misk]

i just think all the stock shit is pointless if i can get a trigger from the distributor.

id rather have an ignition map that is made from scratch, rather than try and change one that doesnt suit my needs

id need the stock ecu and still need a programmable ignition unit, so im not keen to have that combo

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Fair point. Then yeah i'd agree on hall effect for triggering

[misk]

thanks for the input though, im sure theres something im missing that will be a much easier way lol.

ill just hold off on gutting the distributor incase someone has some mad solution

i could fit the GTE oil pump with the CAS, but not sure if the signal the CAS on a 2jz will suit my needs anyway

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Just need something that outputs 6 pulses per 360 degrees of camshaft rotation.. My guess is the GTE will spit out the same as the GE, 36 pulses.. Could grind teeth, but could never go back to stock without replacement.

[misk]

hmm true
im thinking as i dont need the orig sensors in the dizzy, i can grind them away which will leave enough room for me to bolt the hall sensor to the dizzy floor and the wheel ontop of the existing wheel.

[andrew_mx83]

Otherwise if you are crafty with electronics, use a LM1915 to condition the VR signal and from the NE (36 pulse per camshaft revolution), divide by 6 and have 6 pulses per cam rev.

what is involved with that? complicated circuit? im guessing u could do this without running the ecu?


might be a whole lot simpler to use the original unbutchered dizzy and have a little box that divides the reluctor signal by 6 before the ignition controller.