2jz-ge ecu/loom question...

[andrew_mx83]

for sure. im a big fan of lpg and a bigger fan of straight sixes lol.
ill have to drop past one day and have a look at ur beasty.

i think urs will make some good numbers, GRA seems very suited to boost and u otherwise have a proven winning combo.
the impco seemed to be better for an NA application. plus its a "feedback" mixer so i can have closed loop mixture control off the o2 sensor
i havent got that black box yet tho, pig rich will do til then lol

[misk]

hacked up the dizzy a bit tonight
but the neighbours started banging on the wall after i did the first sensor lol, was grinding shit all night so fair enough.

can see that the hall wheel will fit over easily and will be room for the hall sensor somewhere in there.
ill cut the centre of the wheel out on the weekend and sort out getting it centered and bolt the hall sensor in.

[andrew_mx83]

too easy mate, is looking good.

do u have a way of testing it to see if it works as it should or just wait til u fire it up?

[misk]

yeah can feed a 12v signal through it and hook up an LED, should produce a simple on off signal.

[misk]

well after more hacking up and trial fitting, the wheel for the hall sensor is too small to work with this dizzy without hacking up the wheel from the VR setup.

ill have to get in contact with a few places that do distributors and see what they can do
but should still be a matter of bolting the hall sensor wheel ontop and bolting the hall sensor on the bottom!

will update once i know more

[andrew_mx83]

i got me a hall pickup on the weekend.

i will be machining up a trigger wheel which is EXTREMELY well illustrated by my ms paint skills.

it SHOULD clear everything in there, i will be leaving the reluctor pickups and wheels in, at least until the ignition box is fired up and working 100% and the ecu is out.
only issue atm is the evenly spaced windows, i may have to end mill them

what do you think?


edit: the trigger wheel is the weird shaped black line. the funky shape is to clear the reluctor crap.

[misk]

yeah that was my exact plan.
the only problems i can see is that the main VR pickup is slightly higher than the wheel in the middle on my dizzy (which is another reason i hacked mine up), im not sure if thats the case with yours?

but indeed its the way to go!
let me know how you go with machining the wheel - remember there needs to be be one window that is larger than the others for the TDC setting

im still going to look into purchasing a wheel from a dizzy shop or similar, but not sure how succesful that will be, so will be great if you can get a nice straight (circle?) wheel made up
looks like you've got a great CAD image to go off lol

[misk]

i came accross this lil write up for converting a dizzy to hall, and seems like exactly what we're trying to do, just on a much smaller, cuter scale lol

http://www.molla.org/DIY-CDI/DIY-CDI...CI-Trigger.htm

edit - and also thiis bit more technical (and proly not much use to us lol) link
http://www.hallsensors.de/Vane%20Sensors.pdf

[andrew_mx83]

i havent had a measure inside yet to confirm any of this but i will just maching steps in it or whatever is necessary -so long as there is physically enough room. but im going to try very hard to get the hall and reluctor pickups both working at the same time so i dont have to buy another dizzy.

i may be able to machine you up a wheel, ill have to run it past the old man as the lathe etc (ie knowledge) is all his and he is pretty short on time atm

but for that to happen u will have to provide an even BETTER cad drawing than mine LOL


ill have a read thru those links when i get a few spare minutes (not looking good today)

[misk]

its all good if you cant do the wheel, was just a thought.
ive emailed a few places about getting one made up, as after reading those links i wouldnt want to attempt it myself anyway lol.

ill paste one of the more important parts in here

The Hall Effect sensor is designed to be used with a rotating vane that passes through the gap incorporated in its housing. The Hall sensor is mounted on the distributor advance plate and secured using the rivets incorporated on its housing. The rotating vane needs to be made so that it spins with the distributor shaft and its vanes pass through the sensor gap.


For this to happen, the rotating vane needs to be cup-shaped. The horizontal face has a hole to allow it to be placed on the distributor shaft and locate with the rotor button. The vertical section needs to have slots cut in it to appropriately trigger the sensor.
The number of slots on the vane equals the number of spark-plugs for which the distributor caters. So a 4-cylinder car with four spark plugs will use four slots. These slots need to be evenly spaced around the circumference of the rotating vane. It is essential to be accurate here, as a 1° difference between slots represents 2° on the engine.

A 4-cylinder engine will have each slot positioned 90° apart. 6-cyclinder and V8 cars will require slots spaced 60° and 45° apart, respectively.

edit -
found another good link that goes into detail of the process the toyota ECUs handle spark (and fuel) with a distributor based system.

found it a good read just to make sure i wasnt going the wrong way about things.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h25.pdf

and then compared it to how this system works (which is really what we're trying to replicate as its a hall effect distributor based system)

http://www.vanagonparts.com/digifant.html

dont know if any of the info im posting in this thread is worth anything to other ppl lol, but i like to read shit, so figured other ppl might be the same!