The Tuning Talk Thread - Forced Induction EFI & JZ Tuning.

[midnight_purple_GA70]

Your logic is correct there, but looking at those numbers, bump that base timing up at 1000rpm mate. No idea why your tuner would have the timing drop away from idle speed as it accelerates through 1000rpm. About 20degrees advance should do the trick at that point.

What figures are in the rest of your t*map screens, below 2psi? The rest of the ignition retard figures on boost look 'ok'

Have you confirmed your base timing with a timing light, to be sure that what you see on the Mtech handset is actually what the engine is doing?

CHeers

since ive had the microtech in the car ive had a whole host of issues with the thing (as seen in my build thread and not the result of the microtech but my shitty wiring)
so as a result alot of areas had been probably "tuned around" to make it work as it was...

now things are wired correctly the values are quite out...

at least that is my understanding...

as far as the t*map below 2psi goes its currently set to 0 i think (this means no correction? so will run what ever the t*rpm tells it?)

as for checking the car with a timing light it hasnt been checked since the 100 000 was done
so i havent actually checked to see that it is advancing as per the microtech values through the rev range...

[1JZ-Rolla]

No no no, you just need to “lock” the timing at 10 degrees with the handset/laptop, and then check the physical timing at the crank pulley with a light  DO NOT rev the engine in this condition though, don’t forget to turn the timing lock back off.

Your values in the t*map screens below 2psi should not all be zero………. Post them up mate, then we might be able to help.

When was the car last on a dyno to properly diagnose this stuff? At the end of the day, while you can do things like verify the base timing etc, nothing will substitute for proper time with analysing equipment……… don’t go blowing the ass out of your motor trying to rectify the misfire by trial and error

[midnight_purple_GA70]

im not 100% sure the more i think of it regarding timing... ill see if i can get it down to the mechanic or get him to come round with his timing light to check that again...

ill check the t*map values again tonight but im 99% sure they were 0

as for a dyno hasnt been on one since the single went on as my tuner wanted to road tune 1st then clean it up on a dyno rather than spending hours on end on a dyno

but in the 1st instance with the single and old tune/wiring it was leaning out coming under boost so i pulled it off the road to sort out voltage issues as at that point the alternator was wired incorrectly and was not charging at all under load

now with your figures ive got it hits a wall at around the transition from off boost to on boost

another thing i noticed
putting the old values in the car would throw crank/cam errors
with your tune it doesnt register an error

oh how i wish i could start my project over again from the start things would of been so much easier

[midnight_purple_GA70]

confirmed that t*map settings from 00HG to 24HG are all 00...

i put a different ecu in and with about 10% throttle it will rev cleanly
soon as i add throttle it will miss and carryon as before...

i suspect i have some sort of TPS issue...

[thechuckster]

can you monitor the TPS with the handset? as in does/can it display what it thinks is the TPS position as you push the throttle from nothing to WoT?

Engine doesn't have to be running at the time.

[midnight_purple_GA70]

yeah i can and it appears to be functioning correctly...

but for some reason at what appears to be 20% throttle or above it really struggles...

like as i pass that point it feels like its retarded it a shitload then as soon as i back the throttle off a fraction it starts to accelerate cleanly

[midnight_purple_GA70]

well just had another check of my tps wiring and it turns out i must of been on something good when i wired that...

4 wire sensor

microtech requires 3 wires to be connected

from left to right
12v
5v
do not connect
gnd

so naturally i managed to get the 5v and the "do not connect" mixed up... not sure why it still appeared to work properly though...

[rpsil13]

well just had another check of my tps wiring and it turns out i must of been on something good when i wired that...

4 wire sensor

microtech requires 3 wires to be connected

from left to right
12v
5v
do not connect
gnd

so naturally i managed to get the 5v and the "do not connect" mixed up... not sure why it still appeared to work properly though...

awesome, thank you for all the help,

this is how i have mine wired, but i just found out the other day that the ground wire is broken, so i have to fix that, hopefully this week

also another noob question: how do you check the timing on a 1jz, where do you connect the "magnet," usually i connect it to the #1 spark plug wire, but w/ the jz it runs coilpacks, so do i connect it to the #1 coil pack harness?

TIA- everyone on here is extremely helpful

[1gjet]

The information given in this thread is gold, only problem I have is I cannot get the microtech to idle under any leaner then 12

[midnight_purple_GA70]

turns out i had my tps wired correctly after all...

i now suspect a faulty tps so have another one on its way to rule out that being the issue...

[midnight_purple_GA70]

well it wasnt the tps...

so i went back and double checked all phils values were in my handset
then i made sure any other corrections except for the ignition map were reset to 0%

then proceeded to have to add a whole heap of fuel through the load map from 24hg to 00 and then added more through the boost settings...

car now revs and drives quite normally under any throttle will attempt to make boost but didnt want to take it far as i dont have an afr gauge
was just richening it up as i saw fit as it was clearing it up under free reving and when i took it for a drive it was working well

now to get it tuned properly

cheers to all who helped...

[rpsil13]

^glad to hear your car is running better now

thanks for the wiring on the tps, just redid my tps wiring and it works great, i can see it go from 0%-99% as i press on the throttle,

another noob question: how do you check the timing on a 1jz, where do you connect the "magnet," usually i connect it to the #1 spark plug wire, but w/ the jz it runs coilpacks, so do i connect it to the #1 coil pack harness?

also, what does the mt ecu use to check for knock?

on my ecu my o2 sensor wire is not connected to anything, is the o2 signal used only for tuning? or does it use it to make adjustments?

Thanks to everyone in this thread,

[midnight_purple_GA70]

my timing check i get the mechanic to do it so not 100% sure

microtech does not check for knock... you would need to do that with other means

you dont need the o2 sensor for the microtech it doesnt need an input for that... all it does is read a value but doesnt do anything with it afaik

[rpsil13]

is there any way to check for "codes"?
i think my #5 cylinder is not firing
i found the #5 coilpack cracked, so i replaced it but i still have the same issue, stuttering/missing
then i pulled all the plugs to check the gap, the #5 plug was clean/new looking so i dont think its firing,
how can i check if its receiving a signal from the ecu?
i also checked the injector wiring and it is getting power, but how can i check the signal wire?

also, how accurate is the microtech wiring diagram? so far i have heard that the cam sensor wiring is backwards, but are there any other known issues?

i bought this car w/ the microtech already installed, and while checking the injectors, some of the wiring seemed off, for example the wiring color for injectors #2 and #3 were switched, as was #5 and #6, but when i switched them to theyre "correct" place the car ran worse, ill be tracing every wire back to the ecu, but would appreciate any insight

thanks

[midnight_purple_GA70]

the only wiring ive found to be questionable is the crank/cam sensors...

injectors and coils and tps water temp air temp have all been fine...

that being said after looking online at their diagram i think its a little different to the one that came with my ecu... will have a look tonight if i remember

the only codes you can pull in the microtech are in the screens of the microtech itself... press left from the 1st screen and you will have a screen of errors press left again to get the other screen of errors

there are only 8 things it checks though...

it wont tell you exactly if a cylinder isnt firing