Engine choice - Cant Decide

[stidnam]

Planned to spend 10k on it thats nearly already gone so not counting anymore.
Just spend whatever it takes i suppose but trying to be smart and not waste money at the same time. Do it once and do it right.

Wheres the best place to get custom engine mounts fabricated onto the cross member ?

Lol that's the way we all end start out, a budget at first then just say f@# it i'll finish this how I want it to end up.

Try Linden (aka Road Runner fabrications) for the custom engine mounts as he does very nice work.

[HAIRY_APES_22'S]

hey imagine a 13b rotary in one of these babies, hell it would sound amazing and go hard but than reliability will be shit house probably need a reco every 10,000km's, but it will be a wicked conversion.

yeah stick to a ca18det or a 4agte as ppl have done these quite easily, there are a few celicas with sr in them too.

i remember seeing 2jz ta22 celica for sale, man it was a tight fit, but yeah anything is do able i guess if you work at it.

ps has anyone ever thought about transplanting a volkswagon bettle air cooled engine in one of these celicas it wont go hard but it will never over heat lol imagine how unique it would be, you hear the distinct whistle as ur cruising along lol jks


cya

[GEMTA22]

i absolutely hate the sound of that vw engine, a mate used to own one with a hot dog exhaust and that shit me alot.

2jz its not going to be a drag car, more for circuit man love the corners straight line doesn't do much for me to be honest. Ill be happy with around 150 rwkw reliably preferebly abit more. Some people swear by rotaries and say there reliable but its not what im after even tho yes there capable of producing good power and are considered a great engine.

So CA18DET seems like the pick of the bunch followed closely by the 4agte. I know i can reach the required power goal and have a reliable supply of parts in the future.

Hows ur 22 going btw guessing its nearly done ?? You said by the end of Jan so its not long away.

[connection]

righto, i have something to add to this.

i once had to make this decision for my hack. either ca18det or 4agte. read on

ca18det
PRO's
- rev happy, fun to drive
- better choice of parts, spares and aftermarket
- ecu can be reprogrammed
- gearboxs are good for around 175rwkw
- the main one: CHEAP POWER
- MORE CHEAP POWER

CONS
- the ca18det has a decent flaw, that is oil control issues. the main problem with a ca18 is that at sustained high RPM, the head gets filled with oil, as it can not escape back down the the sump. This is because the oil return galleries are too small/ restrictive. this in turns leaves (obviously) less oil in the sump, and is generally the cause of doing your bearings.

to fix this, its quiet simple, there are two welsh plugs at the back of the head, remove them and fit two external oil drains straight back into the sump. in most cases this fixes the problem. your better off stripping the head down to do this and it can become expensive if your not doing it all yourself.

- no other real issues.

4agte
PRO's
- small, light, fun engines
- 4agze engines have decent internals
- reliable. pretty damn reliable.

CONs
- you really need an aftermarket ECU (adaptronic, haltech etc)
- you will blow up a t50 in seconds, so you will need a w5x box, this will be strong enough
- to fit a w5x box involves a $450 bellhousing + other items, expensive, adds up quickly
- need a rwd throttlebody + relocate alternator etc... adds up.
- the overal cost. it can get quiet expensive.

the main reason for me choosing a 4agte, is because once my 16v 4age NA expires, i will be able to use alot of my 4age supporting systems to be able to make a 4agte a cost-viable option.

hope that helps

[HAIRY_APES_22'S]

the ta22 has hit a brick wall no progress at all ( gona have to extend the dead line lol) bought a few parts for it thats about it.

yeah go ca18det man lols it is a nice engine eventhough its nissan

just imagine how much it will cost you man waht what needs doing so you can set a ball park when undergoing the modifications,
*custom tail shaft
*your gona be using the s13 gearbox the t50 has no hope behind that power plant so custom gearbox mounts
*custom engine mounts
*custom intercooler piping i reckon use the stock ic cos its fits snug
* relocate battery
* wiring it up
*bigger brakes
*stock diff will last if dont flog it lols
* mod plate
* custom exhaust

yeah looking at a fair bit of dough aye, but it will be a dream to drive all that power in such a light car
the conversion will set you back at least 4 grand ( i think) if you try and do it on a budget and ask help from people you know. but still its really hard to keep to a budget anyway you always exceed it and end up living on plain rice lols

it will be a very nice celica in the end though,

the other question is is the celica you have to original to be butchered? what the heck just do it aye have fun you wont regret it me thinks

cya

[dayzii]

Hey how come we cant go a 3S? 240hp on a rev3 motor?

[GEMTA22]

Oil in the head (fixed by installing a catch can that drains back to the sump or more drastically adding a restrictor to the head oil feed) only an issue if you intend to spend lots and lots of time at the track. This is a problem for all RB and CA engines even the RB26DETT.

Stock head gasket is crap and needs a MLS one in its place

Man 4k wont even cover the parts, im hoping to get it under 10k complete. I don't think ill be able to thats just for the engine, brake, suspension, diff package. Most likely run close to 15k at the end, with a power figure of around 180rwkw.

NO a 3sgte is to complex and i'm not even going to consider it. Its just too much for me to handle ill be happy to get the ca18det complete.

[HAIRY_APES_22'S]

Man 4k wont even cover the parts, im hoping to get it under 10k complete. I don't think ill be able to thats just for the engine, brake, suspension, diff package. Most likely run close to 15k at the end.
.

hey, 10k okay i take your going to get all the work done by workshops ie other people, so you will do nothing yourself well if thats the case then it will most probably will expect to pay that sort of money.

so when you planning on starting this conversion? lols

[GEMTA22]

No, ill be doing lots of the work. Ill be taking it to workshop for parts i can't do.
Like custom engine mounts fabrication, tailshaft, diff.
Want to install decent brake package aswell, ill try to do that myself.
Ill install the motor, wiring, gearbox well ill try to do as much as i can.

Comprehensive list below.

1: Have the motor rebuilt with a metal head-gasket and if i can't afford forged pistons. CA’s are getting on, so a freshen up in the beginning will relieve hassles down the line. (Highly recommended)

2: install a Garrett GT2871R SR20 bolt on replacement turbocharger. This will never need replacing and will net 240RWkW. If i can’t a T28 from a GTiR flavoured SR20DET is the go.

3: Replace the clutch with something solid. ORC Twinplate is my choice but Xtreme if $$ are tight.

4: Use solid (eg stock Toyota) style engine mounts. CA engine mounts are like jelly.

5: Use an aftermarket computer. AP Engineering PoweFC is a good plug in choice. If done right a remap can save lots of cash.

6:Upgrade the radiator. Something from a mid 80’s Volvo sedan V6. They’re an alloy twin core of the perfect size. The 4 Cylinder ones are the same size but copper and easier to find. Otherwise you’ll need to go custom.

7: It is possible to fit a 18x12x3” intercooler core in without cutting the front bar up.

8: Fuel system is best done using a serge tank, cheap kits are available. Pressure pump should be no smaller than a bosch910.

9: 440cc (RB26/7MGTE) or 500cc (RX7 SIV) 550cc (RX7 SV) are well worth the upgrade. Using RX7 SV injectors and these require a slightly different plug. These can be had for as little as $150 with plugs.

10: 3” Exhaust with flex bend /below. Mandural bent and goes over the rear axle.

11: Bosch external coils

Lots of people have helped me here and this is collectively what ive been informed and researched myself and decided from toymodders lots of the parts list and jfallen has advised me alot aswell. Really appreciate jfallen and everyones input thanks.

[HAIRY_APES_22'S]

mate you seem like you got it all mapped out lols

[GEMTA22]

There are so many factors to consider like reinforcing certain areas of the chasis, strut brace no off the shelf so custom made, suspension coilover kit.
Custom axles which can handle the power at the rear end. Trying to create the best desired placement of engine as low down and as far back as possible for improved handling.
Wheels brake caliper clearances , its far from being mapped out. Just trying to plan as much as i can tho. Theres alot of things i have not got mapped out

[oldcorollas]

iirc SR20 are actually not that light..
re turbo.. smallest to get the power you want will be more responsive

connections list is good.

[tomvale13]

I guess that would be the benefit of going the SR or 3s option, having uber-response at the power level you're hoping to achieve

althouth in saying that a 4agte at 150ish kw would probably not be much different down low and be a bit more 'peaky' if you will, turbo depending obviously.

Options options, all of them expensive..

good luck!

[river]

Hi,

Yes, 3S or 4A. The 3T-GTE is a great engine and can make the power you want. A turbo'd 2T-G that's bored and/or stroked will also make the numbers, and drip in old school charm.

But, it is your money, and if you wish to rape your car with a non-Toyota engine, then go for it.

Oh... one thing... should you get a non-Toyota engine and have the indecency to customise "Toyota" on the rocker cover... you will be gone from these forums. We do have limits here.

seeyuzz
river

[connection]

Oil in the head (fixed by installing a catch can that drains back to the sump or more drastically adding a restrictor to the head oil feed) only an issue if you intend to spend lots and lots of time at the track. This is a problem for all RB and CA engines even the RB26DETT.
.

that wont work man

your cams will be swimming in oil before it reaches out the breather. at a wild guess, you could maybe fit over a litre of oil in both cam covers assuming they fill all the way up before exiting the breather, this is pretty much already dropping the oil below the LOW line on the dipstick.

you need to fit bungs at the welsh plugs at the back of the head. this fixes the problem, what you mention is a bandaid solution at best.

yup your correct about this being a problem with the RB26... however its not really an issue for ALL rb's