4age oil pump mods

[Sam_Q]

They're fine for size.
Just port the pump body so the oil has an easier passage through the pump and it'll be fine. I've done a few and with small burrs it only takes an hour or two.

Hey Bill I am going to give this a go, I was wondering how much of a difference do you think this would make? It can't be good that the oil has to do a 90 degree bend for the main oil flow

[Billzilla]

Hey Bill I am going to give this a go, I was wondering how much of a difference do you think this would make? It can't be good that the oil has to do a 90 degree bend for the main oil flow

It makes the most difference at high revs, when the oil is most likely to cavitate and produce air bubbles.
As for a quantifiable difference, I can't give you a real answer sorry other than it's good to know your pump is built properly.

[Sam_Q]

See I didn't even know it was possible for oil to cavitate. I plan on doing it for sure as the flow path looks terrible.

Of note the worst spot of them all looked to be from the front oil port in the block to the back of the oil filter. I am going to rip into that one as well.

[domma_aw11]

Were was this thread before i did my rebuuld this year, i have a smallport bottom end on my 4a, im hoping to spin it up to 8500 and over, thats what the cams are good for, would my pump be up for this?? Its n/a if that makes any difference??

[Sam_Q]

do you know if it has square teeth?

[xero]

Were was this thread before i did my rebuuld this year, i have a smallport bottom end on my 4a, im hoping to spin it up to 8500 and over, thats what the cams are good for, would my pump be up for this?? Its n/a if that makes any difference??

yes. N/A no difference.
mine regularly see's 9000rpm and has no pressure loss issues. fitting my stack dash recently confirms this even when the sump is half full.

[domma_aw11]

do you know if it has square teeth?

Sory, i have no idea, i just know its a smallport bottom end

[Sam_Q]

I could be wrong but I am pretty sure that model has the square teeth. If your going to rev over 8000 then it's probably a good idea to upgrade it. Bill can confirm if this correct or not.

If you want one I now keep them in stock for $175, otherwise you could find a second hand one.

[trdee]

iirc the smallport one is the wave style. same part number as the TRD-spec bigport oil pump according to the catalogue i have here when cross-referenced with toyodiy.

is also a different p/n to the bigport oil pump....

[xero]

correcto, it is wave type.

[30psi 4agte]

Hey guys... Thought I'd dig up this old thread I started..
I have been pondering over the oil pumps on a 4age of late. My concern is in regard to cavitation...... Does anyone have any real world input into running 4ages at 10,000rpm...?
I know the gears are prone to issues etc... I have the toda gear set ready to go into my new motor.
For those that don't know. This motor is what I would call a "serious" build and has been in the making for many many years.( prob since I started this thread) I'm now ready to assemble this true blue monster on a 4a. (10,000+rpm and nearly 40-50 psi boost) but have been questioning crank driven pump at this sort of rpm.
In short"..........CAN They do it.?.....anyone out there running one at this sort of level and can have some genuine imput?


I know some Atlantic motors run the std type pump...however some are dry sump where they can dictate pump speed.
My other thought is in regard to the RB26 motors that spin in excess of 10k. They seem to run crank driven pumps.
Are these guys just prolonging the switch to dry sump or are they getting the pumps to work.
At this point I'm not worried about surge issues etc...(I have this sorted) I'm just after someone that might have some experience with it.

Anyone out there

[Sam_Q]

I have dealt with people who have, I suggest porting the pump. I offer it but if you have the right tools and a steady hand then you can do it yourself too.

The porting + Toda gear set + pressure up kit is the combo they have used.

[oldeskewltoy]

9000 to 9500 is what Toda says....

personally.... a dry sump offers some things even the Toda gears can't.... the biggest of which is to run more clearances in the mains and rods, lowers the drag... especially as you go past 9000. Other advantage is the dry sump, do to oil storage acts as a secondary cooler...

It really is up to you... but dry sump "kits"are not that hard to find these days.......

[Big T]

Dry sump it. The motor is costing you 12k+ I'm guessing. Insure the thing by dry sumping it. Mrps kit is nice. I have one on my 4agte. Goes on the exhaust side down low. I've even managed to mount the tank in the bay so no lines go into cabin.








Back together. I do have a proper breather hose now instead of the blue radiator hose!

[fixeruperer]

nice kit man,
does the brackets all come with it ?

do you race this thing ? or just like having cool stuff ?