The real oils

[SYC02T]

Went down the local auto parts supply shop today to get me some oil.

I found that Nulon have bought out their own range of oils. Now I know they make some realy great additives, but has anyone used or got any real data/info on this stuff. Because as the others say 'oils ain oils'.

I was also looking at the royal purple range, these look the goods, bit on the pricey side, but if it does the job exceptionaly well then you get what you pay for!!

Mind you the synthetic Nulon oil was about $44/5L

What comments do you guys/girls have or suggestions.

Cheers ô¿ô

[Draven]

what car? what engine? mods? power?

penrite SIN range is apparently good stuff - never actually used it myself.
The elf range of oils are really nice, but you're looking at $70/5L.
royal purple I've heard only good things about too.

[Admiral coFF33]

Penrite or Penzoil = winner for turbo

[SYC02T]

Ta22 - 2tg'T'eu - BB t03 turbo - looking for about 240hp at wheels. (time will tell)

I used penzoil in the last rebuild, wasnt to fond, i found it tended to blacken quicker that other oils i have used.

I just bought the sin g'box oil, it did look like a nice engine oil too.


damn there are too many choices, no matter what i choose, some one out there will have had a bad experience with it.

[barned01]

anyone tried the castrol Edge range?
endorsed by the Bray family so i don't know if they are sellouts or actually stand by a product they endorse.

[EldarO]

Ta22 - 2tg'T'eu - BB t03 turbo - looking for about 240hp at wheels. (time will tell)

I used penzoil in the last rebuild, wasnt to fond, i found it tended to blacken quicker that other oils i have used.

I just bought the syn g'box oil, it did look like a nice engine oil too.


damn there are too many choices, no matter what i choose, some one out there will have had a bad experience with it.

The Penrite stuff is good.

it may have just blackened quicker because of crud still in the engine after the rebuild...? how long after the rebuild did you use it?

I used Penrite HPR15 in my 7MGTE with no ill effects, no knocking or unhealthy noises, im now using Castrol something or other, they replaced it when i had the head reconditioned, im not 100% on what type of castrol oil it is, although, like the penrite, the car runs like fluid at all stages of driving, until the turbo kicks in, then for some reason theres smoke coming out the back that smells suspiciously like my tyres...

Eldar.O.

[SYC02T]

I used the penzoil for about 1200Km, then i switched to the penrite. i then rebuilt the engine after 2000km to do more stuff, and do some things a bit better.

I like the smoke problem you have at boost threshold.

[mullett]

Very complicated subject, which I've been enlightened about a little over the last few months. Few interesting oil facts:

1: Most of the 'synthetic' oils are actually a mineral oil refined to the point they can legally sell it as a synthetic.

2: Motorcycle oil can be used in a car, but not vice versa, because the integrated gearbox chops the polymers in a car oil to shreds. Likewise with diesel oils (high carbon content). Car engines are actually one of the least demanding engine oil applications.

3: Synthetic oils don't reduce wear, they just last longer at high heats. Eg. BelRay fully mineral oils, semi-synth and fully synth. All have a breakthru of 4500pounds (which determins the resistance to wear), but the further up the scale you get the more heat it can deal with for longer. So the fully synth is only really an advantage for a heavily boosted motor, or other situations where it's working exceptionally hard.

4: DOT5 brake fluid isn't actually better for racing applications. Its main advantage is that it doesn't absorb water (it's silicone based), so it lasts a long time, and it's not corrosive. But under high-heat, unlike DOT4, it doesn't boil and re-stabilise, it blackens and hardens. The catch with this that I forgot to mention earlier, is that while it doesn't ABSORB water, water still gets into the system, so it pools in steel brakelines and corrodes them...

5: Brake fluid, once opened, even if re-sealed in its container, will absorb enough water within 6 months to reduce the boiling point by 100degF. Hence you should also change brake fluid every 6 months, this is the cause of a lot of brake fade.

That's all I can think of in my flu-induced coma, but there's heaps more interesting stuff about oils...

RM.

[monkeymajik]

On the nulon site you can get some stickers and some promotional info about their new oils sent out to you. It looks the goods. But for engine oils I'm a Penrite person.

Regarding the superior high heat performance of synthetics. If you are subjecting your engine/oil to those sort of temperatures then you should really have a oil cooler anyway.

[mullett]

Oil coolers help keep the average operational temperature of the oil down, but it still suffers when it's pumped thru a turbine centre that's glowing red, or sprayed on the base of a piston. It's stuff like this, in really high-stress scenarios, that dictate how much you should spend on your oils I know a guy who works for BelRay, and used their fully synth oils in his wifes N14SSS pulsar, he changed it at 20,000kms. In situations like that, it lasts for ages. I've gone from 5k service intervals to 10k, by using good oils and good filters. At 5k it's still clean.

RM.

[TheToyman75]

The Royal Purple web site is

www.royalpurple.com.au

Personally I tried it in my 3TG a number of years ago and gained 5hp at the tyres If you want a synthetic oil I couldn't recommend it high enough. It is a modern technology oil and all the tec info is on there web site.

[Lonewolf]

When i got my car the previous owner was using motul, we were talking about it and joked i'd have to start using mobil 1, he laughed at me and said it was crap. When i went to do an oil change i was asking what is some decent oil, got reffered to a guy about royal purple. the distributor in town for it then gave me a story that all race cars down at bathurst use it, and is bottled under another brand, only because that brand is what pays their bills. After some more research i decided to try it, the engine did sound alot smoother (ppl i have taken for a drive have also made comment on this)

[30psi 4agte]

I reckon Mobil 1 is crap too. its too thin and if the car isnt driven regularly like mine is it has a tendency to drain to the sump ( more than most oils) and cause noisy start ups as the oil is being pumped back up to the top!
Im after a full synthetic oil thats not too thin ( i use large bearing clearences) ideal would be 15-50w
I have been using valvoline oil and pretty happy with it. will have to investigate the Royal purple though.

[jeffro ra28]

In all our race engine we use Gulf Western Comp 50 which is mineral oil.

It is ideal for race engines with oil heaters however being so thick for roadies without an oil heater its probly not the best.

Although when used with heaters etc we have found this oil to be exceptional. Certainly better then mobil 1.

[30psi 4agte]

Gul western 50 ? a 50w oil i take it?
I have found that most of the thicker oils are mineral based. I just get a bit concerned when it comes to these as my setup is turbo and takes a pounding!!