2jz-ge ecu/loom question...

[misk]

yeah was going to ask the same question, was going to call a place like jaycar and see if they could help out.

so a bit more info on this would be great indeed!

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

I can't remember now if NE is 24 or 36 teeth... Also I mixed up, it's LM1815, a VR signal converter IC essentially.

To build a circuit to do it, you would need knowledge, or have knowledge of someone with knowledge of logic gates and things of that nature (something i'm still learning about).. Easier to butcher and have a rock solid signal imho.

[misk]

lol cool

as it stands the options are butcher the existing wheel to give 6 trigger points, but with this, the engine wouldnt know TDC for #1 cyl, but if thats not needed then its all good(not sure when it would be needed in an ignition only situation)
but with this are we 100% sure the jaycar unit will accept that trigger anyway?

or fit the hall effect trigger, which would provide reference for TDC and we know will work with 99% of ignition systems

[thechuckster]

butcher the trigger wheel - toyota VR sensors are quite robust but some after-market ECU manufacturers have diffuculty using them.

fwiw: i used a 22RE VR sensor, feed it thru a LM1815-based circuit and ran the MsExtra.com ECU for the turbo 18R.

Link to circuit diagram - from this part of the MsExtra manual

And you could also configure the msefi or msextra ECU to run spark only - plus you'd get a fully programmable ECU and ability to drive other things like thermo fan, boost control etc.

[misk]

thats some good info
but from what it seems, fitting the hall effect sensor is going to be the esiest by far lol

[thechuckster]

using the existing VR sensor requires no extra fitment

[misk]

but it requires a circuit to be made up, and im not keen on using the MS unit, i know its a great unit, but not what im after for this build.

where as with the hall sensor i can bolt it all in and run it straight to the jaycar ingition unit.
plus i already have all the parts id need for the hall sensor mod.

doing the hall sensor also eliminates alot of extra chances for something to go wrong as its very simple

[andrew_mx83]

i wonder if u wanted to be a rough prick could u simply attach the outer section of that ford hall wheel to the plastic shroud on the outside of the toyota rotor button?? all u really need is the 6 tangs notsomuch the top section that the shaft goes into.

instead of making up a plate to go under the rotor button.

[misk]

lol yeah i had thought about that also, but they need to be evenly spaced, so you'd need to make up new 'tangs' that are equal in size to the space in between.

the only reason im keen to use the existing wheel is exactly that, its all made up and ready to go, and with a small amount of cutting will be simple to fit.

i have no jigsaw blades atm, so i cant cut the center of the wheel out so it will fit ontop, but ill grab some on the weekend and it will be good to go.

ill get in there tonight and grind away the existing sensors, i really can see no reason why using a hall sensor wouldnt work, so im not stressed about keeping the existing sensors.

[andrew_mx83]

sounds good. im jsut trying to keep mine on the road and atm the ecu & standard pickups are the only thing ensuring that.

i wasnt talking about making new tangs, basically jigsaw the middle of it away as u said and slide the outer ring (with tangs) over the rotor button and somehow attach.
how is the size of the ford wheel compared with the plastic shroud on the rotor button? if the diameter was close enough that would be a pretty simple solution

[misk]

yeah i knew what you were reffering to, but i didnt really explain the size differences

the metal wheel is a little smaller than the total diamater of the rotor, and it would foul on the VR sensor for the 24 tooth wheel, hence why i was looking at getting rid of them all.

to be feesable to add the wheel without any mods it would need to be around 8cm (roughly, havent measured exact lol) in diamiter to clear all sensors

[andrew_mx83]

ah yep that makes sense now.

btw what part of melbourne are u from?

[misk]

im from kensington mate, just next to flemington races

how does the 7m go on the LPG anyway?
obviously its not 100% cause of the tune, but would be interseted to know how the GRA goes on it

[andrew_mx83]

goes ok for running on 5 cylinders lol. it has burnt a valve and is running like the p00 that it is

it now goes pretty much like a stock one now or maybe only a little better. will still do a 2nd gear takeoff, uphill with a button clutch lol

once i get the ignition running and have a decent advance curve as well as no AFM it should pick up again -i am expecting good gains here


im in the process of sourcing another head to build up with a P&P, stainless valves, big cams, custom plenum, 80mm TB, etc but it is still a couple of months off

im running an impco 425 btw not GRA

[misk]

ahh i see!

forgot bout the burnt valves.

im really not too keen on the impco 425 setup, but some ppl seem to love them.
i think you would get gains just from going to the gra setup once tuned properly as the metering rod allows for a much finer tune.

but either way, its good to see a similar engine running gas! seems to be none around

i spoke to rapidflow in hoppers crossing and they seem to do quite a few gas 2jz there and we're expecting good results.

apparently with a GT35r setup running 18psi a stock 2jzgte was producing 350rwkw
so theres def good hope for bgoosted applications, just a matter of getting the tune right.