Supra auto to manual swap info?

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Hi there people, im currently doing a auto to manual swap on my ga70 Supra with the 1ggte. I have searched the forums and around the place and cant find much info about it or anyone that has done this? I am sure that i have most of the parts that i need and am not concerned about that as such, but am wanting to research into it before its to late in case theres things that im not aware of yet.

Thanks

["Z" UTE]

The swap is straight forward and relatively simple if you have a modicum of mechanical ability.

Flywhhel from a 1G-GTE is the best bet. I believe 3T-GT is also suitable. Just get the flywheel with the biggest contact patch for the clutch face.

W57 gearbox is what came in the GA70's. You can also use the 6 speed box from behind a 1G-FE (IS200)

Your auto tailshaft yoke will have to be binned, Standard W series yoke will be required for the W57/58.

Clutch master and slave with lines, is not a biggie, however you may require a pedal box from a manual car, unless Mr Toyota has kindly left you a spare pedal mount under the dash.

Bridge the wire from the old auto neatral start switch.

Some say the 1G-GTE will run in limp mode if it does not "see" a rotation signal from the gearbox. I personally have not had that problem.

Thats about it, cheers Chuck.

[VasH]

go here

http://www.z20soarer.org/forums/showthread.php?t=201

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Thanks for the help fellas.

Vash, great right up there. What did you do about the split ring, washers and clips etc for around clutch cover? And connecting the throwout fork to release bearing does the fork just slide into place and thats it? I dont have a manual car to copy or look at, all i have got is most of the parts for the swap so it is a bit more difficult for me than maybe some others that have done this in the past.

I know that there must be split rings washers clips etc, that i will need to use with my pressure plate and disk assembly and i dont have these but have got the bolts for pressure plate. How am i able to get these or an illustration of them. and what i still need?
Because i have nothing to go buy except the parts i have got. You bought a O.S Giken clutch that proberly had all the shi in one package i would think?

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Also, how is the release cylinder connected to the throwout fork?

Thanks

[VasH]

Yea i did buy a complete os giken setup so it was fairly simple just had to bolt the clutch cover on and use a splined alignment tool to line up the clutch plate then bolt it down..

As for the throw out fork it sits behind the bearing obviously and has a fairly large style clip that holds into onto the throwout, the throw out i had would be diff from a standard too so im not sure how yours would be setup.

[wilbo666]

The below image should help for you

The clutch slave cylinder bolts to the side of the gearbox. The clutch slave rod pushes directly on the clutch fork (there is a divet in the fork that the clutch slave rod sits in).

>Grease the divet in the clutch fork that the clutch slave rod sits in

Also
>Grease where the throwout bearing carrier slides on the front of the gearbox
>Very lightly grease the gearbox input shaft.



Hope this helps

Cheers
Wilbo

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Thanks Wilbo666, that helps heaps

[Gttwinturbomk3]

I have question about the various 4 types of shifter housings on w58/57/56/55 boxes as to how hard it is to change over housings mid to rear shift or whatever?

Undo the six bolts and then what?

[wilbo666]

I have question about the various 4 types of shifter housings on w58/57/56/55 boxes as to how hard it is to change over housings mid to rear shift or whatever?

Undo the six bolts and then what?

>Undo the 6 bolts that holds the shifter position on.
>Undo the 1 bolt that holds the shifter elbow in place
>Undo the bolts that hold the rear extension housing to the sandwitch plate / front housing
>Break rear extension housing seal (if you break the front housing seal then you will also need to drop the front section of housing to reseal it. This involves taking the front seal cover off, removing the reverse switch, then undoing the front input bearing and front layshaft bearing clips...etc)
>Remove rear housing (catching shifter elbow)
>Clean sealing surface of rear extension housing / sandwich plate
>Apply sealant
>Install rear housing, with shifter elbow
>Install new shifter position top plate (6 bolts)


Pretty sure there is a better guide somewhere But should give you a rough idea...

Cheers
Wilbo

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Yeah thats sweet as Wilbo, thanks again.

[Gttwinturbomk3]

I believe that there are too plates which bolt on the bell housing and to the engine is this correct or are they something else? I have circled them in pic....

Thanks

[wilbo666]

That's correct.

There are two engine -> Gearbox support brackets.


I'm not sure about the 1G but on the 7m they are the same regardless of auto or manual (In my understanding).

Cheers
Wilbo

[VasH]

That's correct.

There are two engine -> Gearbox support brackets.


I'm not sure about the 1G but on the 7m they are the same regardless of auto or manual (In my understanding).

Cheers
Wilbo

Yep auto ones on the 1g are the same

[Gttwinturbomk3]

Yep auto ones on the 1g are the same

Thats good news then, thanks mate