Silvertop 20V power problem

[Buttocks]

Just did a conversion from a Fiat twin cam to a silvertop 20V in a kitcar and there engine doesnt seem to be much more powerful than the 90hp fiat engine, is there some way of checking that the vvti system is working or something that may be making it lathargic, it doesnt really change with rev;s seems to stay pretty flat
Thanks heaps guys

[JP]

hook up a globe to the check engine light pin (W) on the ECU and bridge the TE1 and E1 terminals on the ECU with the ignition switched on, that will show you any logged error codes.

[Buttocks]

Is there anything else i can do?

[oldcorollas]

you could check you wired it up right, that it has proper fuel pressure, that it has a decent exhaust and that the intake is not restricted.. and check the timing is correct..

to start with

[JP]

...but you can't check that the timing's correct without bridging TE1 and E1, so you might aswell add in a check engine light while you're at it.

[Buttocks]

Do you know of anyone that is really good with these 20V engines? A Guru as it were, in QLD??

OHH and i can bet my arse the fella that did the conversion just set the timing by putting the dizzy in the middle position without bridging the ecu, what would that do?

PS: What is the base timing on a silver top??

[allencr]

What's the compression?
Was the timing set 'by the book', or by ear/seat of the pants for performance?

[oldcorollas]

bridge the pins and set to 10 btdc? usually for 4A..but someone else can confirm

[Turdinator]

I remeber reading somewhere that these motors need a speed signal to the ecu otherwise it thinks its only free revving and won't make full power. Just another thing to look into...

[JP]

if it doesn't have the speed signal connected it will flag a check engine light and log a code 42. This also puts in place a premature revlimit around 7200-7500 instead of 8200.

Do you have a diagnostics terminal in the engine bay somewhere? If so, then the pins in the diags terminal should still be connected to the ECU, so you can bridge them from in there. When the car is at idle, you can bridge the TE1 and E1 terminals in the diags box and the idle should change/drop then the ignition advanced is locked to base timing. Check the timing mark on the crank pulley with a timing light and it should be around the 10deg mark on the timing belt cover. Remove the bridge in the diags terminal and the timing should jump up to ~18deg or more at idle.

[Buttocks]

So does anyone know of a fella that is good at diaging problems with these 20V's??

[Buttocks]

So if i havent got the diag port how do i set the timing?

[spectral]

As suggested by JP in the second post, jump TE1 and E1 at the ECU instead of using the diag box.

[Buttocks]

I'm also trying to find someone who is good at 20V's in QLD
ANYONE??

[Buttocks]

Its also a real prick to get started, and we havent installed the oxygen sensor not that it would make a difference power wise