Wideband O2 sensors, a few questions.

[Phildo]

Thanks for the input JP.. Have you compared readings from the LC-1 to those from a professional grade dyno sensor?

Having spoken to someone from Ovaboost (an EMS dealer), they wont tune a car with any O2 sensor but their own (rightly so) which if i heard correctly was some expensive autronics model. He also said he's tuned a few cars with the basic Bosch 4-wire, and upon comparing readings noted DIFFERENCES upwards of 0.5 AFR.. NOT COOL!

I'd be very interested to know anyone who's fitted a higher quality O2 sensor (such as the LC-1, or (apparently) better still the WBo2 2J1 or 2C0).

*tips hat*

[JP]

I've got LC-1's in 3 of my cars, one has been tuned on a dyno dynamics unit where the LC-1 read within .1 of the "Pro" wideband on the dyno.

I've gotta buy another one shortly and am currently deciding between the WBo2 and Innovative (hooking into adaptronic.)

[takai]

While we are on the topic, how much are the Bosch 17053 (which i think are the LSU4s according to TE) locally? I can only find US links for them.

Anyone on this? Or did it fall off the end of the page. They are the VW sensor which i believe even the LC-1 uses.

[The Witzl]

AFAIK, locally they are fkn pricey... hence why you are getting US links.

Phildo... its worth noting that the bosch 4-wire isnt a REAL wideband sensor... its just a slightly more sensitive narrowband.


As for tuning using a proper wideband.... well i tuned my 18RGE running a Megasquirt-2 myself, using nothing but my LC-1 for fuel mixture readings, and the rest of it by trial and error.

Here is my dyno graph, without any dyno tuning done. You can see the AFRs from the dyno's o2 sensor are pretty good - considering the target AFR in my tuning is 13:1 at WOT

[jezza323]

ive got an LC1 in my car

cheap, still works about 18 months later

as for the output, it can be adapted, i think u can create an sort of output between 0 and 5v, and it has 2 outputs.

default settings are for 1 narrow band simulation output (0-1v with very steep change @ 14.7:1) and linear 0-5v wideband output.

[Omegaman]

sorry to butt in, i'm thinking this thread is coming to a end?

Looking at buying the LC-1.
my question is.. Since I have a std ECU (analoge type) with narrow band O2 Sen.
Can i use the LC-1 to replace the narrow band, BUT also use the features of the wideband for running an Emanage piggy back Comp..
Or do I need both?
I'm not looking forward to tapping another hole in my manifold, to have both O2 sensors.

[JP]

the LC-1 has two programmable outputs, you can program one to simulate the factory narrowband sensor and feed that to the stock ECU, and the second output to an emanage ultimate or similar for tuning purposes.

[The Witzl]

JP is spot on correct.
You can just replace your factory O2 sensor with the LC-1 and get the best of both worlds

[JP]

only downside with that setup is you can't run the cheaper gauges when both programmable outputs are in use. If you want a gauge in this setup you need to go for something like the XD-16 which is quite pricey and connects via the serial protocol DIN plugs

[The Witzl]

Really? Why's that Jase?

[JP]

the DB series (cheap) connect to one of the programmable outputs, the XD connects to the serial chain

[The Witzl]

ahhh... i get you now. You cant piggyback one output to two devices (ECU + gauge), of course!

[Omegaman]

it's great to hear that I can do both, with the one unit.

But this new info on the gauges has now depressed me.
I have the Autometer A/F meter, though I can't remember the wires from it ( 3 Ithink) need to check. I will look into the XD -16.

[JZA70 R]

The only small gripe with them is that you have to wait 30 seconds or so after switching the ignition on to let the sensor heat up before starting the engine.

This isnt true. Innovate specificially state not to let the sensor warm up to full temp before starting the car. Reason for this is if you have a rich cold start or even condensation in your exhaust upon startup on a hot sensor, there is a risk of thermal shocking the sensor and shortening its life, if not damaging it permanently.
To back up this statement they specifically ask you not to hook the heater up to a seperate switch just for this reason. You are to wire the heater into the ignition and start the car while the sensor is warming up. Starting the car on a UNPOWERED sensor will shorten its lifespan, starting the car while its warming up WILL NOT.

So in short.

DO NOT
-Drive the car on an unpowered sensor.
-Cold Start the car on a fully heated sensor.

DO start the car while the sensor is warming up. (indicator light is blinking)

well you can start it straight away its just gonna soot up ur sensor and make it useless, it needs to get hot so it can burn anything off it

Not true, see above.

[JP]

on my XD-16 it's ready to be started at ~64% heated according to the gauge.