The Spray Painting Thread

[Jeri]

Glad to hear that im on the right track... thanks mate... how many mls of highfill do u think i would need for those two doors?

["Z" UTE]

Glad to hear that im on the right track... thanks mate... how many mls of highfill do u think i would need for those two doors?

400 to 600ml, depending on number of coats.


cheers Chuck.

[Jeri]

I went and got the highfill... this is what they gave me...




http://www.conceptpaints.com.au/tech...nePrimer05.pdf

I hope this is the right stuff.... thanks

["Z" UTE]

I went and got the highfill... this is what they gave me...



I hope this is the right stuff.... thanks

Jeri, that will do the trick. Lightly thinned 10-20% it will be hi-fill, and thinned 60%-80% thinners it will be a great primer coat.

cheers Chuck.

["Z" UTE]

Something that should go in this thread. To remove various badges and emblems from your ride before painting, simply use a length of 8lb fishing line, to cut through the double sided tape, works a treat.

cheers Chuck.

[Jeri]

I got some time to spray the primer on the doors, i used 500mls plus 20% thinners...

[LT1986]

wow, that looks familar....good work man....btw, did it go on okay>? 20% sounds a lil on the lean side

[Jeri]

yeah it looks ok, a little rough but it should be alright after sanding.... 20% because i was following Chucks instructions (the man knows his stuff) (a bit thicker to use as highfill),,, will see what happens..

[pac]

i hope you used proper respirator because the hardener has isonates in it. you really shouldn't be using two pac's with isonates at home.

[Jeri]

its acrylic not two pac.....

["Z" UTE]

Jeri, that looks pretty good, I was going to ask if it was a little rough, but that has been answered. For the next hi fill application, make your last coat quite thin, and it will level out really well and reduce the roughness.

Get yourself a long block and start sanding, that paint will knock back really quickly.

It is important here not to "roll" over that crease line in the door, sand up to the line at a 45 degree angle keeping the board flat on the surface. If you "rock over" you will take too much paint off. By sanding to the line, that should leave the line really really crisp.

Then give it a coat of primer and guide coat, and sand again. It really is mind numbing stuff the sanding, but it is 90% of the job. Effort and time spent now will result in a top class job.


cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

pac, I did a shiteload of research, and found that in the "Hi Chem" range of paints (made in Aus), they make iso free 2 pak in both the primer and clear (and I think they make a basic range of colours too, but I wanted metallic). My brother in law's car was painted as a first time backyard job by my FIL, who used Hi Chem acrylic white on Hi Chem acrylic primer, and a piss arse compressor with cheap gun. Came out pretty darned good, and after a couple of years in the hot Townsville sun with about zero wax put on it, it still looks pretty darned good, so can't wait to see what the COB 2k system puts out with a decent compressor and a half ok gun.

Oh, did I mention my paint turned up on the weekend?? They had to order in the Iso free clear as it isn't a stock item in the back woods of QLD, but they mixed up some metalux2 in Valiant Vitamin C modified for metallic. First up they mixed per the book a sample amount, didn't think it looked quite right, changed the silver and added a bit more, which gave them a more vibrant version of Valiant's lairy orange I put a small smear on some white cardboard, and holy shit does it look good in the sun, even as a poorly layered smear with no clear on a dirty bit of cardboard!!

Jeri, that primer looks pretty smooth in all, don't forget to use a black dust coat before sanding, and a big board sander with dry paper to make it perfectly flat. Once the whole body is flat, then you can partially assemble, and colour/clear. I will be doing all the engine bay, door jambs, insides of panels etc (basically everything you can't see with everything shut and the windows covered) before the pre-assembly and painting. Oh, and when you paint the outside you should cover all the glass holes with paper to prevent turbulence inside of the vehicle from throwing half dried bits of paint all over your wet clear.

[Jeri]

You may as well do the entire car with the high fill, as it will make the car look like it was all done professionaly and not just a repair. 2 coats of high fill, sand with 360 wet with acrylic guide coat. You can apply as many additional high fill coats as required, but please do not try to 5 coats on at one time, as you risk masive shrink back and crows footing. Recoat with primer, acrylic guide coat, then sand entire vehicle with 800 wet. Use sugar soap in your bucket of water, it helps to keep the paper free of clogging.


Hope this helps, cheers Chuck.

Ok so from what you said before, the stage where im up to.....

So i've basically got my two coats of high fill,

Next spray a acrylic black guide coat...

Then sand wet 360 until flat with a big block ( what size?? i've got one that is about 7cm x 10cm)

Re- apply more highfill (only is needed?? or just apply anyway??) with final coat making it thinner (40%primer 60%thinners maybe???)

Spray guide coat again

Sand 800 wet ....

Please correct me if im missing something...


Thanks again...

Jeri

[twentyEight]

pac, I did a shiteload of research, and found that in the "Hi Chem" range of paints (made in Aus), they make iso free 2 pak in both the primer and clear (and I think they make a basic range of colours too, but I wanted metallic).

They don't make them in Metallic, as Metallic colours are a COB system and the Base does not contain ISOs, the Clear does...

[o_man_ra23]

They do make the metallics, but yes, it is a COB system, hence the iso free clear. Local supplier doesn't stock the base which belongs to the same series, but contacted Hi Chem and confirmed that the Metacryl2 base which they used was compatible. Apart from that, they make a 2k pigmented iso free paint which can be pigmented to solid colours.