The Spray Painting Thread

[pac]

did you use paint stripper lot quicker and easier

["Z" UTE]

[QUOTE=Jeri]Hi... i just spent 2 hours stripping the door jamb to bare metal.....
i was just wondering if its actually necessary to go right to bare metal on the the other side if all the is the original paint, unlike the rest of the car that had 2 coats of paint on heaps of highfill....
do i need to spend another 2 hours?



If the paint is in good condition, you could get away with an 800 wet sand. However, I can bet that there are a gazillion little chips, where people have dropped the seat belt buckle. So I would be going back to bare metal if you really want a standout car.

cheers Chuck.

[Jeri]

Yeah i used paint strippers, it works well, it is time consuming trying to scrape out of those awkward places.....

Yeah u are right there is a lot of chips.... i guess i'll spend a bit of time on it....

Thanks heaps,...

[pac]

use wire wheel on a small grinder or drill after you put stripper on, works a treat but gloves and glasses a MUST. Great for awkward and had to get to spots

.

["Z" UTE]

I found the worst paint to get rid of was that which is in the spot welds. Solution, I purchased a recirculating sandblaster from Supa Crap. You simply hold the nozzle against the panel where the spot weld is and pull the trigger. Media is blasted onto that area and scavenged back into a bag. And the surface is nicely roughened ready to apply etch primer, top stuff!

cheers Chuck.

[twentyEight]

How much did that set you back, and how effective is it at scavenging the beads/sand?

["Z" UTE]

How much did that set you back, and how effective is it at scavenging the beads/sand?

I purchased the unit some 4 years ago, so price, no idea. The neavy ass bottle of zirconian grit was about the same price, I would say less than $100.00 all up for grit and blaster. The scavenge systen just uses the air that pushes the grit out the nozzle to blow the grit back into the bag. Works well except for horizontal surfaces, as gravity takes over, or if you take the gun away from the surface with the trigger still depressed. The blaster comes with a selection of different shaped rubber shrouds, round, rectangular, square etc.

cheers Chuck.

[Jeri]

Hi... im just about ready to spray etch primer on my bare metal celica, but before i do , i thought i'll post my steps and hopefully u more experinced guys (Chuck) can correct me if im doing something wrong... (car will be sprayed in acrylic)

1. All repairs on imperfections havve already been done with body filler and sanded with 240g (except for rust repairs have not yet been done for the simple fact that i dont have a welder yet....)

2. I will rub rust converter all over the bare metal just to get rid of all of the light surface rust then wipe (by following the instructions on bottle)

3.tape the car up, clean everything with wax & grease remover

4. The guy at the paint shop said to me that a litre of etch primer should do the whole car at a light coat...
now this is where i need a little help, does it matter if i spray over the body filler (bog)?
when they say light coat, how light do they actually mean? should i still be able to see bog repairs through the grey etch primer?

This is tthe stage that i want to get in the next week or two... i just dont want the car to sitting there in bare metal for too long...


5. plate all of the rust

6. high fill ( now would it be best to highfill the whole car or only on repairs, how many coats, some people say to me 5 coats, wouldn;t it be too much??)

7. guidecoat and start wet sanding (which coarse sandpaper ? ? ? ? ?)

8. ready for top coat, would probably need to get a better gun ( which cheapest gun would do the job?? how many coats??? when paint is cured would i need to cut it back, or is it only clear u cut back...

9. spray clear ( cut back which coarse sandpaper???

what do i do after this???


thanks..
Jeri..

["Z" UTE]

Jeri, you sound as if you are on the right track. For the surface rust, I would give the rust the flick by dry rubbing with 320, before applying the rust converter. With the rust converter, just work a small portion at a time, as if the rust converter dries out it will leave a very uneven film, which can be quite soft, not what you want to paint over.

The etch primer goes on with a light translucent coat, and yes any bog repairs will still be visible. 1 litre of etch will do a Crown sized car!

Another option is to use PPG Grey CT Etch, which is an epoxy primer with etch capacity. This can go on quite a bit thicker than the other etch primers, and is suitable for a vehicle that will sit a while before being primed.

You can then do the rust repair welding, and then just touch up the repairs with the epoxy primer.

I would recommend you use a single primer/high fill such as PPG One Shot. From the can you can adjust the density of the filler by adding a little thinners, or turn it into primer by adding more thinners. And the One Shot is grey, nothing worse than getting a stone chip, and seeing blue or yellow high fill, makes you wonder how badly the car has been damaged in the past.

240 is probably a little coarse, I would do the bog repairs with 360, or if you think you have the surface exactly level and do not wish to sand at this point, just wait until you have the primer/surfacer on the bog, and then sand.

You may as well do the entire car with the high fill, as it will make the car look like it was all done professionaly and not just a repair. 2 coats of high fill, sand with 360 wet with acrylic guide coat. You can apply as many additional high fill coats as required, but please do not try to 5 coats on at one time, as you risk masive shrink back and crows footing. Recoat with primer, acrylic guide coat, then sand entire vehicle with 800 wet. Use sugar soap in your bucket of water, it helps to keep the paper free of clogging.

After full wet sanding with 800, wash all panels with sugar soap and water, retape car, prepwash, and then tack rag the car to remove any lint from the previously used cloths.

Any newish top feed gun with a 1.2 to 1.4mm orifice will do a good job on the colour and clear coats. You can buy a Bluepoint gun from Snap On for about $120.00

You can wet sand 800 between the colour coat and top coat if you wish, but that will add another day or two to the process. Best bet is have everything ready for a big day, colour coat, observing the flash off times between coats, then clean you gun and load up with clear, that will will give a nice flash time between the final colour coat and the clear. Apply 2-3 of coats of clear, (too thick with this stuff will lead to big orange peel.) Then a final coat of clear which will be 10-20% clear and 80-90% thinners. Apply this coat fairly lightly and it will level out the clear and bring up a good gloss. Too heavy at this stage and you risk runs and sags!

Let the paint dry for a couple of days, and then denib with1500, sand with 2000 then 3000, and buff. Have a look back through this thread, page 30, as I gave a detailed explanation of how to get a top class finish with the proper sanding buffing technique.

Hope this helps, cheers Chuck.

[JZA70R_92]

this page should be a Sticky....... or even better all the worthy stuff extracted and put into a new Thread!!!


For BOg I would use RAGE gold. Can be applied over epoxy primer even standard primer that has been scuffed with 80 grit, ive done this to a repair on my escort and up to now the repair is still good!!

[Jeri]

Thanks Chuck... you obviously know what you are talking about... and i'll definately will be asking more questions as i get through this (hope u dont mind)

Ive actually already bought the etch primer...



Are you familiar with this brand, the place i bought it are well known in the west of sydney (VG auto paints)

Thanks for all your help.. much appreciated...

[love ke70]

whats the deal with bog work before etch priming? i always thought you were better off etching then doing all your bog work, or does it not matter?

["Z" UTE]

whats the deal with bog work before etch priming? i always thought you were better off etching then doing all your bog work, or does it not matter?

Select the correct filler and you can apply it over paint, which is the best way. All fillers/bog use a catalyctic reaction to cure, this generates heat, and can lead to moisture being drawn back in under the bog when it cools, so if you have applied it to bare metal, you will run the risk of rust forming from beneath the bog. Best bet, get a microfine filler like PPG Galvaplast, and do your bog work over the epoxy primer, just ensure you rough up the surface with 120 so the bog has a "key" to attach to.


Jeri, yes I have used Concept Paints before, actually when they first appeared on the market their paint was as cheap as chips, but high quality. Now the price has risen, I just buy the PPG paint from my local distributor. I have been "backyard" painting for over 20 years, ( made a few huge stuffups, but you learn from them) so I have picked up the odd trick or two, any questions please feel free, as I am only too happy to help someone that is willing to have a go.


cheers Chuck.

[Jeri]

ok i managed to spray the doors with etch primer... Since i got told that 1 litre will do the whole car, so i figured the the two doors would be about 1/5 of the car, so i spray 200ml for the doors ( hope it was enough)
i can still see the repairs through the primer, the only thing im not too sure about is that its a bit rough, sandy, dusty to touch..(should it be smooth). would i need to give it a little rub back before i spray the highfill?
here is a flew pics..




i was thinking of maybe spraying the hillfill while i have it all taped up (i dont need to do any rust repairs on both panels).. or is it better to do the whole car together?

Thanks for all your help....

["Z" UTE]

Jeri the roughness is more than likely due to your air pressure being too high. You can drag a bit of 800 dry across the surface to knock it back. Just do not rub through or you will have to recoat with etch. The etch coverage you have there is pretty spot on. High fill any panels as you go, no need to wait for the whole car.

cheers Chuck.