The Spray Painting Thread

[smackdown.exe]

hey guys quick question, i plan to respray my car in the next coming months, now the car is currently maroon and i want to go green. Only want to do outside for the time be door jams etc will be done later on.. now what kind of prep work is needed here??

Ive been told i really just need to scruff the paint up on the car now (sand all clear off and scruff paint up) spray primer and spray paint..... to change colour as im not going for a showcar finish.... any thoughts on this??(sorry for noob question)

Cheers.

[Harreh]

Z I dont know the brand of the paint unfortunately it's in an unmarked tin, the car was only painted approx 12 months ago. If its not doable without knowing the brand then I will just get some mixed up.

The paint is a metallic though and a non standard colour, in that case I'd imagine it might be a bit harder to get mixed up, supposedly has 7 different metallic flecks in it. I am going to need to get some mixed up soon anyway so if I need to get it mixed now its no big deal. Once again if someone can provide a good shop who can assist me with getting this mixed and matched it would be great.

As for the respiratory gear thats not a problem, I have a lot gear here that I can solve that with, old mans very much into scuba diving, crude but effective.

Will the metallic affect the need for clear??

["Z" UTE]

hey guys quick question, i plan to respray my car in the next coming months, now the car is currently maroon and i want to go green. Only want to do outside for the time be door jams etc will be done later on.. now what kind of prep work is needed here??

Ive been told i really just need to scruff the paint up on the car now (sand all clear off and scruff paint up) spray primer and spray paint..... to change colour as im not going for a showcar finish.... any thoughts on this??(sorry for noob question)

Cheers.

If the paint is in reasonable condition, and you know for sure what it is, ie Acrylic, Enamel, or 2Pak. You may not have a lot of work to do.

Sand the paint with 800 wet, and if you do not blow through the clear to the colour, you can then apply the new colour straight after sanding. If you rub through to the colour, you will have to prime in those areas, to create a bleed seal between the paints.

cheers Chuck.

[Harreh]

So can anyone help?

[o_man_ra23]

Harreh, can you take it to the shop who did the original job?? They will know what brand they used.

In all seriousness though, for a PITA job like a spoiler, it is more than likely worth taking it to a shop, as mentioned, plastic priming etc needs to happen. Also, if it is a quality brand of paint, it may not be compatible with iso free primer and clear. Your scuba gear may save you, but if your neighbor or their pets croak it, and you are found at fault, then you will be sitting in a 3 x 3 cell with "Bubba" as your sugar daddy for some time.

Smackdown, a good start would be to find out what type of paint it is. If it is metallic/pearl etc, it is most likely a clear over base 2pak or clear over colour acrylic. If it is a solid colour, it could be enamel, 2pak, or acrylic, and they can be with or without clear, so that is a bit harder to pick.

[Harreh]

Not sure who the original shop is and I dont want to be that guy who hassles the old owner of the car, had too many of them for myself. If I'd known the brand was a big deal I would have asked when i got the paint with the car

I've got an outdoor cabana area which I can seal up quite well with good filtered ventilation and I'm happy to get new paint mixed if required, the thing is I want to learn to paint with 2pack and as said I've got a lot more parts coming up in the next 3-12 months that I want to be painting.

The spoilers already painted but I dont mind taking it down to bare.

I appreciate all the advise

[o_man_ra23]

If you are happy to get the paint re-mixed, then get it all done in an ISO free. You will need to seal and filter your spraying area to prevent overspray landing on your neighbour's car anyway, but the carcinogens are an organic molecule, and will get through that sort of filter. Don't underestimate your liability when spraying in the backyard.

[af300e]

Isocyanates are apparantly a possible carcinogen to humans. They are classified as a "2B" carcinogen along with other compunds found in substances such as coffee, pickled vegetables, diesel and petrol.

More immediate/likely issues are irritation to skin, mucous membranes and lungs.

I've read that iso's are possibly linked to brain damage in long term exposure but long term intake of many types of solvent are also known to cause brain damage.

So, it may or may not be carcinogenic to humans. Saying it's a "deadly carcinogen" is probably a bit misleading.
Add to this that any body shop you might happen to walk past invariably stinks of thinners and paint, there is a significant chance that the air is also laced with a good deal of isocynates. We probably breathe much more of this garbage than we know.

Still, I'm very careful when I spray anything.....It's hardly healthy stuff. I know a spray painter of 20 years who doesn't wear a mask in his booth! There are some mad bastards out there.

[love ke70]

my painter only wears a mask when he sprays clear.
i asked why.
i have to spend longer in there, my head hurts after too long spraying clear.
only wears one of those 2 filter mask things, not a full respirator or anything, but he does make sure his kids are outside when he paints

what about the cancer causing of all the two pac you use? "eh"
hes been doing it for 15 plus years, hes still alive and well. totally mad, yes. but i dont think thats from the paint

[o_man_ra23]

af300e, there is enough evidence that cyanide is poisonous to humans and can cause instant death. Iso-cyanates are like anything else. If it is related to a highly toxic poison, and you can't be sure it is safe, assume the worst and you won't get killed.

Love KE70 - my old man stopped smoking 15 years before he was diagnosed with throat cancer which is directly linked to the smoking. But for the 15 years he did smoke, he was healthy as. Perhaps your painter will discover his mistakes in the years to come, I can certainly think of better ways to die.

[love ke70]

i agree with you.
i was just making the point if your neighbour cops a wiff he isnt gonna fall down dead, and sue your pants off.

[o_man_ra23]

But if he cops a whiff and gets ill, then you will have enough of a fight on your hands trying to prove it wasn't your paint which made him ill (they will test and find isocyanates in your shed/whatever) that you will really wonder why you were stupid enough to use the stuff at home in the first place. Even if he just had a bout of swine flu.

[GeneSPIDA]

My understanding is that you shouldn't "etch an etch". And by that, I mean that if you treat bare metal with rust converter (phosphoric acid) that is effectively etching it. Applying an etch primer (basically contains acid to to the same thing) will then have adhesion problems as it won't react/bond properly due to already using acid on the metal. And yet, people seem to be using etch primer after metal conditioning a panel. Are you sure this is OK?

[love ke70]

its what i got recommended to do by my paint supply shop, and theyre the best in the area...

[af300e]

af300e, there is enough evidence that cyanide is poisonous to humans and can cause instant death. Iso-cyanates are like anything else. If it is related to a highly toxic poison, and you can't be sure it is safe, assume the worst and you won't get killed.

I hear what you are saying, but in a similar vein, sodium and clorine are also deadly chemicals, but salt is edible.......

I agree with you though, much better safe than sorry. In fact, iso's not being immediately deadly is worse, lulled into a false sense of security, those not careful find out the effects years later.