The Spray Painting Thread

[X kyle X]

K guys just bout to go paint hunting for my track hack.

Have rubbed back the standard red to remove all the gloss and imperfections.

Spraying in acrylic. What primer should i use?

The paint colour inpicked is ivory 4H8.

How many coats of the arylic should I do? And should i rub it back in between coats?

[love ke70]

A block - it wouldn't be flat otherwise??

pretty much, unless your particularly skillful...

was just checking, ive had mates say to me, i rubbed it back, got all of the cover coat off without cracking through the primer, but theyve sanded into all the grooves with their hand

goodluck with the colour hopefully that doesnt go on too dry

cheers, andy

[o_man_ra23]

Kyle, your primer should be the same brand as the colour. Always try to use the same brand and series of paint wherever possible, or at least confirm compatibility. You say Ivory is the colour... as in a bone white?? If so, go with a white primer. It will help you get the final colour to be right quicker.

[X kyle X]

Ahhh a valid point. One I didn't think of!!

[ian]

also with rubbing back a very handy addition to your kit is a flexible but firm rubbing block
as that follows the curves giving a greater rubbed surface area
a solid flat block will put flat spots on curved areas , also with a flexible block it can be used as a squeegee , wich also helps in reducing blockage in your wet and dry paper if wet rubbing

[o_man_ra23]

I use the long board for most rubbing, but a very valid point on the flexible block... will look at getting one for the tighter areas.

I should have my car up on its side this weekend for underbody prep. Have found the local dealer for POR15, so will find out how much a tin of that is going to lighten my wallet and get some in the coming weeks...

["Z" UTE]

So I'll be spraying the color very soon. I've been using a 1.8 tip for the primer. Should I change to a smaller ( say 1.6 ) for the color - or use the same size.

The instructions on the color tin say to mix with 150% thinners.

thanks

Gibbon, a 1.2mm to 1.4mm tip will be perfect for the colour and clear. A 1.8mm tip is going to give you huge orange peel problems.

Thinned 150% is only a guide, hotter days you will require more thinners. I normally mix my colour in a 10 litre resealable metal drum, (buy them from household paint shops)thoroughly mix the paint in the original container, empty into 10 litre drum, gradually add thinners and mix as you go. I would normally rinse the original 4 lite tin with 500mil of thinners, and pour that into the paint in the bigger can. Never add more than 15% thinner at any one time, "dumping" too much thinners in at one time can have an adverse effect on the gloss level of your acrylic paint. Use a nice big paddle to stir the paint, lifting the heavy stuff to the top as you go. Probably take you 30 minutes to mix the paint correctly, but the result will be worth the effort.

You have jagged some really nice weather to paint at the moment, low humidity, low wind, and the middle of the day is almost perfect temp for painting.

cheers Chuck.

["Z" UTE]

Owen, I have recently used UPOL Raptor LINER in the bed of my RS56 ute. This is a 2pak product, comes in a box with 4 x750mil bottles and a litre of hardener. I will be using this under my TA22 when the time comes. This is a far superior product to the traditional underbody tar sealant, and the finnish is superb. Can be supplied tintable or in black. I purchased this from a paint shop in Victoria, just over $200.00 delivered, waay better than the price for the same product from the POR15 dealers.

Have a look at the pics in my Crown ute project 4 sale thread, will show you the finish from a body shultz gun.

cheers Chuck.

[tomvale13]

Quick shout for VG Autopaints in Syd, got all our stuff (well, most of it) for $150.

[o_man_ra23]

Rang the POR15 dealer, and for 2ltr of POR15, 500ml of metal ready, 500ml of marine clean, and 500ml of gun cleaning solvent, I will get change out of $220. This should be enough to do the entire floor pan inside and out with 2 coats, plus a few extra areas of particular concern. Advantage is that 2pak will paint straight over the top without issue (supposedly). Will have a look at the raptor product also and see if it has the same suitability. Thanks for the alternative product info.

[Gibbon]

Gibbon, a 1.2mm to 1.4mm tip will be perfect for the colour and clear. A 1.8mm tip is going to give you huge orange peel problems.

You have jagged some really nice weather to paint at the moment, low humidity, low wind, and the middle of the day is almost perfect temp for painting.

cheers Chuck.

Yes - using the 1.4mm tip.

Results of the first coat - the camera isn't really capturing the white color correctly.

It's like a real chalk white. It hasn't got any gloss to it - sounds like I wasn't mixing it correctly. Just been putting the paint and the thinners into the gun pot and mixing until it's even. whoops.

The paint dude said I wouldn't need to use any clear

[ian]

this is what i meant about a flexible rubbing block

did you mix it in the spray pot
or mix it in another container
to me it looks like it went on very dry

[pac]

sure you haven't put more primer filler on instead of paint, even the worst application should have some gloss

[o_man_ra23]

Nah, I've put on acrylic and it has come out chalky before without gloss. As mentioned, it was a blocked breather in the gun which caused my woes.

[Gibbon]

The gun is clean ( brand new needle ) - if I held the spray in one spot too long ( on a test piece of cardboard ) - then I could see the paint piling up and running.

It goes on shiny ( which I assume means it's wet enough ) and then flashes dry.

How do I get it to spray on with more gloss??

Thanks