The Spray Painting Thread

[kremsra28]

hey guys, i have been to the library again and found some excellent books, 1 is showing some bodywork and is called eddie pauls custom bodywork handbook, the other is how to paint your showcar.

they are excellent, have read them a few times already in last few days, have learnt heaps and heaps

1 thing is tho, they use a shitload of bog, said its not uncommon to use 10-20gallons of bog, aint a gallon 4litres??

i also watch alot of rides and american hotrod dvd's, seems like its the norm for these blokes (chip foose, troy trepenier and boyd coddington RIP) to do it like this, in the book the guy is building a show car for chip foose and said that its not possible to file finish a whole car so that its ready for paint!!

i know that modern bog is not bad if used in the proper way, hek, these guys cover the whole car in it, and i understand that 99% of it is all sanded off, but i would be a bit offended if i took my car in for a big $$ job and i saw it covered in bog, but in saying that the results speak for them selves!!

so guys if you wanna have a look in your local library, there are heaps of excellent books that are a wealth iof info, now i just have to get ack into the ra28!!

krem

[Z2TT]

Guess I could give it a go, already stuffed up enough but ah well. My plan is to have the basecoat like on the side of the panel, and then have the clearcoat going beyind the curve where the roof begins (slightly), then blending it in where it begins to be a roof, so i'll have to get that roof clean with wax and grease remover

JZA70R_92 thanks for that tip sounds interesting, Do you mean fold the newspaper in half? and then just stick it on at the edges and have the newspaper fold be the soft edge? chuck what are your thoughts?

also chuck wondering, does it have to be primed? I thought so long as the old paint is ridden of gloss with sandpaper you can paint over?

Also chuck, some people say for blending mix 80% Thinners and 20% or 10% clear and use that, does that help or just simply lay on more clear and create annoying halo's instead of blend them in?

When putting the final coat of basecoat across the panel, should I begin going lighter and less heavy with my application, or will this just create annoying overspray, I just bought a guide on spraypainting and I notice on the video the commentator says on the last coat he is going quick to give it a matt finish ??? confused why. and seems to do same for clear i think, like for base he goes on very light first, then goes heavy heavy heavy, and on the last base coat he goes light and gives it a matt finish, and same with the clear.

Also like to mention the existing paint is sort of brittle, when removing my masking small specs of paint were ripped off onto the masking,
Is this going to happen with my new paint too since the underlying paint is brittle? as in cracked when i took masking off.
Am just saying will it be more prone to chips.

[JZA70R_92]

ill use newspaper as an example

ok what I mean is you put the tape first onto the newspaper.Now normally you would just stick it at the edge of the repair but instead you place the newspaper and tape so its actually covering your repair/primer section now you think WTF how will I paint the panel well you lift the news paper over so it now covers the good area what your left with is a rounded section which will give you a soft edge

btw did you buy a A70?

["Z" UTE]

JZA70R, that is exactly the method I use when doing a doors closed respray. Eliminates crusty edges at the doors.

Z2TT, if you are pulling off chips of paint with your masking tape, then the existing paint is well and truly FUBAR. Two options, totally repaint, or try and patch paint, with unsatisfactory results.

Primer is necesessary over any repair work, and is also used to fill imperfections in sound paint that has a few nicks. A recoat with colour or clear can be done without using primer, as long as the surface has benn de glossed

Light coats from a gun are a waste of time, as you will end up with lotsa overspray. One medium wet coat is worth its weight in gold, as the wet paint will flow out, leaving a nice finish.

The blending coat normally has a little clear in it, but you must scuff the panel where that blending coat will lay down. However spraying straight thinners can be used to good effect in melding overspray onto the older paint. Really only suitable for small areas. Most panel shops work on the A4 principle, ie. if the repair area is bigger than a sheet of A4 paper they will do the entire panel rather than stuff around trying to achieve a good blend.

That matt finish is for contrast when colour sanding.

Best finish on acrylic clear is 2 meduim wet coats, followed by a heavily thinned clear coat. 5-10% clear 90-95%thinners, this final coat brings up the level of gloss, by assisting in the flow out or levelling of the clear. The same principle is used on gloss colour coats, but not on base coats.

cheers Chuck.

[da_foles]

After much experimenting with the old man, we gave in and let a pro finish the job for us. I think the photos speaks for itself.
It was fun learning all the ins and outs of spraying and bogging, sanding back etc. But in the end it is a trade and takes plenty of hours of practice to really know what you are doing. We did all the prep work on this ourselves and still didn't do an awesome job of it. Missed some dints and also can see a couple of our bogs just but only dad and I could pick it because we know it is there.

Turbocaldina saved the day, I highly recommend him. He is a champ and really helped me out when we had a car covered in orange peel(it was hard sanding all that handwork off that dad and I put on) But hey it looks so much better now It looks a million times better then when the clear was all flaking off etc. Still yet to be buffed in a months time once the paint hardens up more. Will look even better

[1JZ-Rolla]

nice! love the colour.

["Z" UTE]

da-foles, yup that looks the goods now. Passes the 3 metre test easy!

cheers Chuck.

[da_foles]

nice! love the colour.

Colour is blackish khaki metallic. (6k8)

Yeah I'm very stoked. Now for the motor some new wheels and lower it with some new springs.

[DrNick]

Is it too cold to paint outside in this weather? (Forecast says fine 17degrees for tomorrow, it gets real cold overnight though).

I didn't really think about it til I was buying supplies yesterday and the guy at the shop said its way too cold to be painting in this weather.

He also said that the metallics are more sensitive to the temperature than the solid colours. Is this true? I've never used a metallic before, I assumed the technique and conditions were the same. At the very least I have a spoiler to paint as it is in primer and I want to put the car up for sale this week so if theres anything I can do to improve the chances of it coming out well I'd be keen to hear

["Z" UTE]

DrNick, yeah the coldeer the worsa!

You could possibly try some fast thinners, these have a lower boiling point, and will dry quicker. The cold will have other adverse effects, lack of gloss, and cloudyness, not good.

As for spraying metallics, technique is important, too dry and the metal particles stand on edge with low reflectivity, too wet and the metal particles all sink to the bottom of the paint. You are aiming for an even distribution of the particles throughout the paint, this gives the true metallic effect.


Heat your garage for a couple of hours, paint between midday to 2:00pm.


cheers Chuck.

[da_foles]

And the car all finished.

[DrNick]

DrNick, yeah the coldeer the worsa!

You could possibly try some fast thinners, these have a lower boiling point, and will dry quicker. The cold will have other adverse effects, lack of gloss, and cloudyness, not good.

As for spraying metallics, technique is important, too dry and the metal particles stand on edge with low reflectivity, too wet and the metal particles all sink to the bottom of the paint. You are aiming for an even distribution of the particles throughout the paint, this gives the true metallic effect.


Heat your garage for a couple of hours, paint between midday to 2:00pm.

It came out great I couldn't even use the garage because my supra is in there on stands. So I did it in the backyard amongst the roses lol.

Because I was concerned about the temperature, for once I took the time to really set up the gun exactly the way it should be with 32psi, and thinned the paint very accurately too. I think that helped a lot because it was atomising really smoothly and I didn't have to paint it that wet for it to flow nice and flat.

["Z" UTE]

So I did it in the backyard amongst the roses Ha. Been there my friend, the biggest issues are the little bugs that live in the grass, but easily knocked off the paint with some 1500 wet followed by 2000, and a buff.

My kids long abandoned trampoline looks like "Pollocks Blue Poles" been used as a spray table for all sortsa car parts, including vinyl spraying of older door seals. My grandson will never use the tramp untill I replace the mat!

One has to use what one has available,

cheers Chuck.

[DrNick]

Hehe yes my pavers are looking very multicoloured in some areas too, I wanted to repave the area a while back but I've decided its better off this way since I'm only going to ruin them again anyway

There werent too many bugs at the height of the sawhorses I was using, but one big bastard of a beetle hit the spoiler at about 100kmph into the wet paint and I can see a little indentation where he landed. I'm pretty sure I got rid of any other little marks elsewhere.

I didn't want to leave the parts out in the cold lastnight so I have them decorating my living room now.




(Its not just the lighting, the spoiler and the bumper are for different red cars)

[Z2TT]

Hi,

I need a suitable mask to protect me when painting with ISO-free 2pak.

I know it doesn't have isocynates, but does this sort of 2pak have any chemicals that need a special mask specifically made for it to protect me against damage?

If so is there any local places that sell these masks?

Thanks.