The Spray Painting Thread

[ian]

exactly what i was going to say lol
a gun stand is also a handy bot of kit a well
this one has a thingy to hold the paint filter
gives you 1 hand free to do something else
like washing down the paint fumes with a beer coz you didnt buy a good respirator

["Z" UTE]

a gun stand is also a handy bot of kit a well
this one has a thingy to hold the paint filter
gives you 1 hand free to do something else
like washing down the paint fumes with a beer coz you didnt buy a good respirator

Got 2 of the gun stands screwed to the paint bench, Cost all of about $12.00. Damn handy when you are doing multi colours. SnapOn even sells a magnetic base gun holder I hang on the shed wall.

ian you need some some gun cleaner

cheers Chuck.

[pac]

hey ian i am impressed to see your guns are as clean as mine but an easy tip to clean guns, i use spray can of paint stripper, works a treat.

[vivioman]

Hi guys,

need some advice from the experts!

I plan to paint my 86 in the panda colour scheme and just wondering:

1) What's the best way to mask the curved surface around the fender/wheel arch area so that I can get a smooth curve when I spray it black? Is there a special masking tape to use that can accommodate curved surfaces?

2) I am thinking that the rattle can paint won't work in my case. I'd be better off getting paint mixed and filled into a spray can instead. Any recommendations of what type of paint I can use? I am only a beginner at this.

thanks

[ian]

hi chuck
i do use gun cleaner
lol
thats an old putty gun
the pot has a crack in it and its sealed on the outside by paint


vivioman
you can get the curve that you want with thin masking tape followed by thicker width tape to hold on your masking paper
i think that it takes more skill to get a decent job with spray cans ,not to mention costly

[X kyle X]

that blue painters automotive trade tape is the stuff you want vivioman...it is easier stuff to work with then the normal run of the mill household tape...


honestly...dont rattle can it...just save a little bit of money get some half decent stuff, borrow/hire a compressor if you dont have one, spend a few hours practicing, then give it a go, best thing, if your spraying acrylic (which you will be) is that if you stuff up... just rub it back and go again!!!

[trdee]

guys i have a question. yesterday i started redoing my car in what is supposed to be a "satin black" paint, but as you can see the result is pretty much a full gloss. wtf? i thought satin black was supposed to be almost matte?

The job is nowhere near finished yet so dw about the dodgy paintwork, but will the gloss subside after a while or is it going to stay like this? I was hoping for basically matte black with a bit of a sheen... isnt that what satin black is supposed to be?

["Z" UTE]

trdee, unfortunately the paint quality varies hugely between manufacturers, and what one maker calls flat can be either matt or semi gloss. You will have to experiment. For a guaranteed "flat black", what you need to purchase is black "tinter", but that does not come in rattle cans.

vivioman, buy some "lineing tape" it is blue plastic about 8mm wide, use that to establish your curves, and back it up with 1" painters tape to which you attach your masking paper. Some newsagents sell rolls of brown "craft" paper, which I find usefull for masking. I got lucky and was given a 50kg roll of real sturdy brown paper.

cheers Chuck.

[o_man_ra23]

Rather than buying the good quality painting paper, you can usually go down to the local paper printer and get the 'end of roll'. You WILL need to put at least 2 layers of this crap on, but for $2 for a good thick roll with enough to paint 2 cars on it, it will save you some coin. Plus that way, the outer layer gets the paint on it, while the inner layer stays dry. I normally will cut off twice as much as I need, then fold it in half before cutting and taping.

Any paint when wet and applied properly will look gloss. So if you have not yet allowed for drying, then a bit of patience may yield the desired result. If not, then as Chuck has stated, the different paint manufacturers will give different results. Perhaps if the whole lot gets finished and ends up gloss, you might want to consider purchasing some decent quality satin clear and putting that over the top?? As mentioned before, if you have used acrylic, then get acrylic clear.

[trdee]

the paint is enamel-based. 24hrs have now passed and it still looks gloss, i was told that the paint would get flatter and flatter over time, but they didnt say if that was weeks/months/years

[o_man_ra23]

I would have thought it should show it's nature after a few hours. Is it humid at the moment?? How well did you mix the paint, before and after thinning?? What thinners are you using?? All can play a part in how the paint can come out.

[Geoff897]

I would have thought it should show it's nature after a few hours. Is it humid at the moment?? How well did you mix the paint, before and after thinning?? What thinners are you using?? All can play a part in how the paint can come out.

It has been pretty cold in Sydney the last week. Says his from NSW

["Z" UTE]

A trick from an old painter mate of mine, that may work for you. To get a satin/matt finish from a gloss paint, simply thin with some "lighter fluid". I have used this method with acrylic, and 2pac so it should work with enamel. Mix a small batch and try on a test panel to see if it will work with your paint. You can also buy flatting agent from paint supply shops.

cheers Chuck.

[pac]

lightly see if your fingerprints stay in the paint that will tell you how dry it is. If you used enamel without enamel add or some sort of Catullus it will dry slower. And as far as flatting you can add flatting base to the paint

[ian]

back in the old days we put talc in with the paint , that made it as flat as a shit carters hat