just thought people would find this usefull:
its the 4age model
I have a modified 20v set that has been ground+shotpeened with arp bolts that weighs 501 grams so -42 grams so sorry I said the wrong amount before
Guess I was shopping at the wrong place then. Hmmm....
My Rebuild and Conversion.... '81 Tercel 3A -> 4A-GE 20 Valve - ON HOLD.Originally Posted by merc-blue
BAD ASS 1986 MR2 - Finally Moving forward.
just thought people would find this usefull:
its the 4age model
I have a modified 20v set that has been ground+shotpeened with arp bolts that weighs 501 grams so -42 grams so sorry I said the wrong amount before
and ae92 gze is 526grams
700grams in total and then with lighter pistons "wow wi wow wha"
hmmmmm im gonna have to buy![]()
Last edited by fixeruperer; 15-10-2007 at 09:21 PM.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
Hi, got a set of these the other day for an rb30.
Visual qaulity was rather run of the mill, similar qaulity to any cheap rod. However the sizing was absolutely spot on. Im talking to within .0001 Yes that is 1/10th of a thou.
Finish machining is excellent. Perfectly round and not tapered. I am not suprise with the overall appearance, its ok, but the accuracy of the size is nothing short of perfect.
Last edited by jeffro ra28; 16-10-2007 at 06:41 PM.
Its ok i cant see the rods when the sump is on so visual quality doesnt bother me
Good news about the finish machining, thanks
If one wanted to build a tough turbo 4A, for a bigport/smallport (not 20V), what gear would we have to use?
Most 16V forged low-comp pistons are for 18mm big end. I would use a prepped 20V crank, spool rods, and then ?.....? forged pistons to suit?
I want to run big big boost, chase that 30psi300kw guy(no, not really)
EDIT: On that note .. ACL sell 20mm pin pistons to suit 16v's .. could be onto something
Last edited by 70XIN; 28-10-2007 at 09:57 PM.
70XIN, I will send you a pm because the question is off topic
yeha i will also send you a PM
Are these Spool 4AGE rods the same length as the stock rods in an AE101 GZE?
Could be a nice upgrade...
all 20/42 4ag rods are interchangeble, so yes.
i dont have a funny or cool signature.
Quick question for you guys.... if you've read the thread you will know I purchased a set of these a while back, since they are my first set of aftermarket rods (aaawwww) I noticed they do not have an oil passage in them on the big half of the big end like OEM does, do i need to get this drilled? or do i just need different bearings or something? They are goin in S/T block with S/T crank.
thanks
My Rebuild and Conversion.... '81 Tercel 3A -> 4A-GE 20 Valve - ON HOLD.Originally Posted by merc-blue
BAD ASS 1986 MR2 - Finally Moving forward.
The hole you mention is usually an oil squirter aimed at the bores or piston. You will not need to have them drilled. Most japanese OEM rods have this if they havent already got proper oil squirters drilled and intsalled in the block.
So NO, don get them drilled, and NO you SHOULD not need diferent bearings.
but but but, wont you then get no oil squirted on the bore/piston, and wasnt it there for a purpose in the first place?
MY RIDE, 2 Door LHD KE70 sedan with 1G HKS stroker: http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=51760
Punctuation is the difference between 'I helped my Uncle Jack off his horse' and 'I helped my uncle jack off his horse.'
Its been done ever since after market rods came on the market and i havent seen any detrimental evidence to say its a bad, it makes SFA of difference.
Having the hole in the rod actually weekens it which is why after markets rod makers dont do it.
Only some OEM do it aynway, alot of engines have nothing.
And the silvertop has oil squirters stock.
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