$250 vented brake upgrade for KE30/35/55 also celica/corona

[o_man_ra23]

KE35 also has 4 by 114.3

Re-using wheel bearings is a bad idea on many levels. Go down to your local SKF stockist and get new bearing kits, they are a very common part number and aren't expensive.

[Hen]

Alternatively the whole RA60 (or SA63 or RA65) hub fits the XT130 strut. And you can just get custom springs to suit XT130 lower perch and whichever upper perch you like (they're not too expensive, $130 a pair last time I got some)

Hen

[Sagluren]

well you could do that.

[rob]

Alternatively the whole RA60 (or SA63 or RA65) hub fits the XT130 strut. And you can just get custom springs to suit XT130 lower perch and whichever upper perch you like (they're not too expensive, $130 a pair last time I got some)

Hen

assuming the RA60 hub height is the same as the XT130 (positioning the disc in the right place)

also why source RA60 hubs when your already getting XT130 stuts in the 1st place just use the XT130 hubs as well.

[o_man_ra23]

assuming the RA60 hub height is the same as the XT130 (positioning the disc in the right place)

Yes, they are pretty much identical. But your second statement is the one which would prevent me getting any.

[myne]

Good thread, but has anyone tried simply using FWD struts with the CV end left in?

The geometry for the offset should be more or less the same and FWD struts are everywhere.



Shit pic, but the concept should make sense. (black = cv / axle)

[rob]

Good thread, but has anyone tried simply using FWD struts with the CV end left in?

The geometry for the offset should be more or less the same and FWD struts are everywhere.



Shit pic, but the concept should make sense. (black = cv / axle)

so more or less any unspecified FWD strut has more or less the same geometry as any unspecified project that it will go into and give you a more or less unspecified brake change and a more or less unspecified offset.

im pretty sure your single insightful post has managed to solve every single problem anyone has ever had doing everything they have ever done in the entire universe

[myne]

im pretty sure your single insightful post has managed to solve every single problem anyone has ever had doing everything they have ever done in the entire universe

*curtsey*

I'd like to thank the academy...

Facetious as that was, wouldnt it make more sense to find one single bolt on part from one single car than to find 4 parts from 4 cars that with some effort - and cutting of cast iron (not the best idea) will work?

[rob]

wouldnt it make more sense to find one single bolt on part from one single car than to find 4 parts from 4 cars that with some effort

this comment makes perfect sense, so if you do know what that bolt on part is, then feel free to tell us, if you dont know what it is, then there is no point in you posting your general philosophy on doing a brake upgrade because that wont help anyone.

i was hoping this would manage to get my point across...

so more or less any unspecified FWD strut has more or less the same geometry as any unspecified project that it will go into and give you a more or less unspecified brake change and a more or less unspecified offset.

[o_man_ra23]

If you could find a FWD strut with the correct geometry, then in theory, it sounds great. Unfortunately, FWD wheel bearings a HUGE PITA to change out, and then you need for the tie rod connection to be in the same place (or better place with respect to bump steer - this would need to be carefully calculated). Also, the lower balljoint would need to be the same shaft between the two, and the vertical distance between the lower balljoint connection and axle centreline will be a hit and miss affair. FWD hubs normally stick out a lot further too, so you would need a wider diff such that your front and rear wheels have the same offset, and then you can't have dish.

So yeah, there are many practical limitations which may prevent this from being a viable option, though if you give it a try and it works, please let us know. Also the struts in FWD are a solid unit, whereas the OEM struts have a shock absorber insert, so modifying the strut to suit a set of coil overs isn't as appealing (though you should be able to get some off the shelf coilovers for the FWD setup to counteract this).

I think the closest I have seen to such a suggestion which would work is the S13 silvia strut setup, but they have mega limitations too, and are only viable if you are doing a complete suspension re-design (and may get used in my 23)

[Hen]

assuming the RA60 hub height is the same as the XT130 (positioning the disc in the right place)

also why source RA60 hubs when your already getting XT130 stuts in the 1st place just use the XT130 hubs as well.

SA63 (same as RA60, I assume) hubs place the disc in the right spot. I am using them. I had them sitting around and so just picked up bare XT130 strut legs from the wrecker.

[Omegaman]

subscibing...
i have this setup ready to go into ra28.
- xt130struts
- rt132 hubs
- mx62 calipers
- ra60 vented discs
should do nicely on the Cobra.
great reading.

[35rolla]

hi i did a little bit of research on this. early corollas pre 1976 have 110 pcd which will fit same xt130 hubs as you used but 1977 onwards use 114.3 pcd so the stud pattern cannot be used. i wanted to do this to my car but i was fairly certain my pcd was bigger than the one you used. hopefully this is helpful for someone

[SLO-030]

Adding on to above post;

The ke1X's and 2X's (upto 1974) were 110pcd. I think only KE25's had disc brakes tho

Ke3X (75) onwards are 114.3pcd

[Hiro]

hi i did a little bit of research on this. early corollas pre 1976 have 110 pcd which will fit same xt130 hubs as you used but 1977 onwards use 114.3 pcd so the stud pattern cannot be used. i wanted to do this to my car but i was fairly certain my pcd was bigger than the one you used. hopefully this is helpful for someone

XT130 is 4x114.3, NOT 4x110. KE10s and KE20s are pretty much orphans in the Toyota world as far as PCD goes, just about every other RWD Toyota in the 70s and 80s is 4x114.3