Peter, do you know what that valve is actually for??
Omegaman,
Here's some pics
As you can see, the main hose (in red)has the T piece in it (blue). The T piece goes straight up through the runners up to the valve in the second pic (in blue).
Hope this helps
Peter
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/MainHose.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...eter/THose.jpg
Peter, do you know what that valve is actually for??
Cheers, Owen
1977 RA28 with 1JZ-GTE (Was 18R-GTE)
Lancer EVO Brakes into old Celica/Corolla/Corona
Doing the things that aren't popular... cause being popular and being good are often distinctly different.
the valve looks like it could be a aircon idel stepup. or some kind of polution re-circulation valve.
cheers
Turbo flutter. : Its like a burp and a hiccup at the same time.
Its the A/C idle up Valve.
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
The other 2 small vacumn lines on the valve go back to a switch.
One line comes from plenum chamber to 'vacumn source' on the switch and the other comes from the valve to 'TP' on the switch.
Could be A/C idle up, but I have a wiring diagram that shows a vacumn switch coming off the Emission Control Computer as well. Not sure what it is though.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...eter/THose.jpg
nah, get rid of it if you dont have ac, take out the hole valve and replace with NoS lol.
cheers
Turbo flutter. : Its like a burp and a hiccup at the same time.
Hey everyone,
Just have a quick question about 18RG timing covers and all the bits around it.
I am just putting my RG back together (fixing an oil leak and decided to give it the once over again)
Anyway after getting all the timing chains on, I was trial fitting the timing cover and there are 2 holes that do not have anything that lines up on the cover.
One goes to an oil gallery and the other is just to bolt a guide to on the 18R.
So I pulled apart an 18R I have here and the guide that goes up to the top of the timing cover has an oil jet / squirter that bolts to it into these holes.
I have never had one of these on my RG since having it (well the 2 others I have don't seem to have them either)
So question is, should I use the oil jet from the 18R? or is there a different one for the RG that I am missing, or is everyone just not using it?
Page 4-23 Fig 4-67 of the 18R green book shows the guide I am referring to.
I will try and attach some pics...
Timing cover holes
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
With 18R oil squirt temporaryily in place.
http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo...eat=directlink
I'm holding off doing anymore tonight until some of you guys take a squizz
Dave
Last edited by floppy; 24-01-2009 at 08:37 PM. Reason: try to add links!
The 18RG has an oil squirter also but it is simpler in design. Only thing is I cant remember if it is in this spot or mounted higher in the head. The 18RG oil squirter is basically a hollow bolt with a small hole on either side of the bolt head to squirt oil horizontally onto the chain running up and down past it. I'll see if I can find a pick to show what I mean.
Glen
18RG oil squirter is mounted in the front of the head between the chain going up and the chain coming down. The 18R had a cam gear in this location and that is why its chain oil squirter was located in the top of the block. The 18RG just had a grub screw plugging the oil hole in the block I think.
Glen
Hey,
yeah I forgot to mention the oil squirter that was in the head is all good.
But figured I either need the 18R one in here, or I need to block it off.
If I don't, wont it let too much oil through (ie no restriction...)
So short bolt with thread sealer and a copper washer to close off the original 18R place?
thanks
Dave
hey all , just picked up a ra28 with a fresh rebuilt 18rg with a problematic head , even though the the head (111-8250) has been rebuilt twice over the last 6 months the previous owner has stated that it has gone soft? and i would need another 18rg head.
is this a common problem?
regards des
Last edited by bv73; 26-01-2009 at 09:34 AM.
My little brother had this problem with his 3S.. apparently being aluminium if they overheat (for too long/ or too hot?) the material can go soft... we just had to bin the soft one and get another... shouldn't be a problem with the 18RG, they regularly sell for $50 - $100, check out the classifieds section, i'm sure there's one floating around atm...
'77 RA28LT #2 ← 2.2L 18RG...
What are the symptoms of it going too soft?
Strong like horse, smort like tractor!
(\__/)
(='.'=)
(")_(")
Symptoms from a engine running point of view? i have no idea... we found that the 3S was too soft when we took head to get it checked out for warpage after it overheated... so i guess in this case it was all the typical overheated engine symptoms, but how you'd know it was soft otherwise, i don't know...
'77 RA28LT #2 ← 2.2L 18RG...
there is a way you can fix it, but it costs, if it is not a special head, get a new one, it will give you a chance to make better head.
sam.
Turbo flutter. : Its like a burp and a hiccup at the same time.
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