For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Omegaman]

1G DSM Injectors

These are 450cc and will be perfectly fine for any 18R-GUE with grunt. They are low impedance, I have a resistor pack you can have for $10 posted if you need (my ECU can drive low impedance for the OEM items.

O-Man, just need to clarify, are the std injectors high imp, also what are the std CC rating?
the resistor pack you speak of, is it the one in the photo attached.
the reason I ask is I will be using the emange blue, these allow a 150% increase on injector size.

[o_man_ra23]

Yes, that is the resistor pack. Stock, I don't know, I think they are 260 or 280's, but could be incorrect. Stock items are low impedance, hence the resistor pack. Have you bought the E-manage yet?? You may be better off with a MegaSquirt II

[floppy]

Hey guys,

need some advice.

I've done another compression test on the old RG and am still getting only 110PSI after about 1500K's of driving since the rebuild,

Did a wet test and the compressions bumped up to around 150.

So basically thinking that the rings haven't bedded properly to the bore.

After that amount of k's should I be seeing some difference in compression? Its basically exactly the same as it was when I checked it at about 300 and 700k's.

(This is after adjusting my clearances to be withing the specs.)

If they haven't bedded yet, what can I be doing to help this process out? (If possible now)

Its only had a few times where the revs have gone up to about 5000, the rest of the time its been between the 3 and 4500 mark.

There doesn't seem to be any "binding" or "friction" in the engine, its always seemed very free revving since the rebuild.

What I have been getting its too much pressure and there has been some oil getting pressurised from around the front timing cover up near where the head meets and the centre bolt is.

If I remove the oil cap and put my hand above it there is a fair amount of pressure coming out. So I zip tied a cloth over the hole and took for another drive (after degreasing and cleaning any left over oil marks) When I got back there was basically none that I could see from where I thought it might be leaking.

The mate who helped me with this build mentioned that too much pressure is a bad thing for running in rings, but I am not sure how or why this is.

Please some help

Dave

PS (this post is a bit rambly sorry guys)

[o_man_ra23]

By 1500kms you should have taken her out to 7000rpm by now. No need to baby it forever mate.

The low readings could be due to cam timing. I suggest you get a dial guage, magnetic base, and a timing wheel and you find out for sure what your cam timing is. My guess is that your intake cam is too far advanced, and your exhaust cam is too far retarded. The compression test confirms this by only bringing you up to 150psi with the wet test.

Oh, and for bedding in rings, too much pressure refers to boost, not to compression. Rings will bed in fine with as much compression as you want to give them (how else do Diesels bed in then last 500,000kms??)

Give her a rev out, if she really starts taking off after 5000rpm, you have your cams out of whack as I stated, and need to reign in your overlap a bit.

[LTJET]

Guys,
I need some help. I just got my engine back from the engine builders the other day. It looks sexy as!! I'll post pics up soon. Firstly I havent yet found a definate answer on the water pump i should be using for my 18RGEU. Second what oil filter, spark plugs and spark plug leads would you guys suggest to use? It is turbo if that makes any difference and part numbers would be fantastic.

Also do you guys have any suggestions for a replacement alternator? I'm looking at around the 100amp or so. Any ideas?

Last but not least would anyone know of places to strengthen gearbox, tailshaft and diffs in melbourrne?

All help is appreciated guys.

P.S. What is the recommendation about boost and rebuilt engines with 0kms on the clock. Should i be running 0 boost?

[Omegaman]

Yes, that is the resistor pack. Stock, I don't know, I think they are 260 or 280's, but could be incorrect. Stock items are low impedance, hence the resistor pack. Have you bought the E-manage yet?? You may be better off with a MegaSquirt II

I read somewhere tha the std may be 210cc?
If they are either 210 or 260's +, as you said 440-450cc would suit.
I have the emanage, bought cheap I thought. has been wired up, waiting for injectors and replacement O2 sensor.
As far as megasquirt, which most of you have tryed and tested, I didn't want to go down the full re-wire stage. Will chase the 7mgte injectors, sounds like the go.
cheers

[GT1978]

Guys,
I need some help. I just got my engine back from the engine builders the other day. It looks sexy as!! I'll post pics up soon. Firstly I havent yet found a definate answer on the water pump i should be using for my 18RGEU. Second what oil filter, spark plugs and spark plug leads would you guys suggest to use? It is turbo if that makes any difference and part numbers would be fantastic.

Also do you guys have any suggestions for a replacement alternator? I'm looking at around the 100amp or so. Any ideas?

Last but not least would anyone know of places to strengthen gearbox, tailshaft and diffs in melbourrne?

All help is appreciated guys.

P.S. What is the recommendation about boost and rebuilt engines with 0kms on the clock. Should i be running 0 boost?

100amp! Are you installing a microwave or just scared of the dark?

[LTJET]

Bit of both. I've got a massive stereo install as well as gauges etc so it needs to charge 2 batteries. Plus i'm sacred of being in the dark!

[o_man_ra23]

Omegaman... 7M injectors won't work, sorry. You will idle like a dog and will no be able to get anything resembling efficiency. You need to look at single spray injectors, not multispray. Check the 18R-GTE reference thread, there is plenty of talk there about injectors which you should find to point you in the right direction.

LTJet - the standard 18R-C water pump should be fine. Teh Witzl has done a thread (in the conversion section) about putting an 80A EA foulycan alternator on, this is what I run, and it is great. Spark plugs - NGK iridium, have not researched enough to give you a part number yet. They are expensive, but last ages and will give you a good strong spark. Oil, I will be using Penrite HPR5 or HPR10 for my 18R-GTE. Spark leads, either get custom Top Gun items, or somewhere in here is the part number for the NGK items.

Gearbox - get a W5x from an RT142 corona (2.4L with 22RE). Check in my RA28 thread (linked in my sig) as I just did this conversion, and will be doing a quick writeup on it. It will vastly improve your ratios, and they are strong as hell. Diff - just bite the bullet and get an F series cut down. Can't tell you a good shop though. The T series will be a bad weakpoint, and are notoriously bad for trying to get anything of an LSD. F series you can get LSD's anywhere. Tail shaft - best option is Hardy Spicer, they have outlets all over the place, and are top notch with tailshaft work. Shouldn't cost you too much to get a custom single piece shaft made and balanced. Just make sure you tell them it will be spinning very quickly so they balance it really well, and get it done AFTER you put the new diff in. Take your car there, as they will make it to exacting standards (they will need your original shaft for the ends). Also get them to install new uni joints.

[LTJET]

Thanks o man!
Hardy Spicer is actually about a 10 minute drive from me so i'll visit them tomorrow and sus them out. I've found the part numbers for standard 18RG plugs and leads for an 18RG and for top gun leads. These are as follows:
NGK
Plugs - BRE527Y-11
Leads - RC-TE94

Top gun leads - TG443

I'll start visiting some spare parts places for a gearbox might even ask toyota for a new one and see if they have any in stock at all. We'll see how it goes.

Thanks again.

[o_man_ra23]

What lead set did you get the TopGun number from?? The one in the Top Gun book is TG 4446. Also the TopGun leads don't have the right angle'd boots that you want, NGK does.

Oh, and I got a very nice Rona box for $300 from my local wrecker. Strong as, tight and smooth. I have freed up about 50% of my engine's lost power!!

[LTJET]

I actually bought a set off ebay that got lost in the mail. The guy was nice enough to tell me that you can buy them off the shelf from repco and that the part number was TG443. From the pic of the leads they have a right angle boots on them and have the proper connection from the spark plugs also. I've attached a pic for your viewing pleasure

[o_man_ra23]

Looked at the book last weekend. TG4446. The boots you need at right angles are the long ones, the ones in your pic are straight, sorry. The little boots that plug into the dizzy should also be right angle too.

[LTJET]

Well luckily i got a refund then and didnt end up receiving them. LOL! I'll change the part number i have here. Thanks champ

Edit: I've just ordered the top gun leads and now also have the oil filter and ngk spark plugs. I will hopefully have the engine in running order tomorrow. I'll take pics of the install and finally post pics of my car in non shell form as it is standing in the DP atm.

Which f series diff would be best to use? eg. What car the diff comes out of.

Thanks for all the help guys. Maybe i can start cruising with the melbourne folk a few times this year when i've finally completed my car

[Sagluren]

hey just a quick one, i just pulled out my piston's in preparation for the rebuild and every slug has "ART" written on the side of them. i know these are not the original pistons but if anyone could shine any info on these particular pistons it would be much appreciated. and rewarded with + rep.


cheers.