For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[Omegaman]

ok, quickest answer please.
ATM available Haltech E6k or F9 fuel only ECU?
there cheap and from what i read able to run 18rgeu.
E6k has better options for down the track...im getting desperate and frustrated & over it..

[The Witzl]

Solution - get the ignition advance plate in your dissy welded to "lock" the ignition timing from the dissy.
Buy adpatronic or other ECU with fuel AND ingition timing control.

Get the ECU to control both fuel and ignition timing...... seriously it makes a big difference.

[Omegaman]

Solution - get the ignition advance plate in your dissy welded to "lock" the ignition timing from the dissy.
Buy adpatronic or other ECU with fuel AND ingition timing control.

Get the ECU to control both fuel and ignition timing...... seriously it makes a big difference.

ok. i'm now the proud owner of the Haltech E6k. which does fuel and ignition and pretty much, more than i would look at right now.
i think its the best i can get for under $400.
i will look at the timing part at a later date.
This will hopefully bypass any issues i have with the std ECU and harness.
I looked for megasquirt, microtech, autronic, but nothing under $600 or nothing used anyway.
as i see it, theres heaps of workshops that deal with Haltech if i get stuck again, they were helpful when i rang them to discuss options and advice.
Anyone now have an idea of a base map? lol Unfortunately Haltech sales did not have a base map for 18rgeu...

Anyone, can probably answer this. the Map sensor that comes with the unit, is a 3 bar. A normally asp engine only needs a 1 bar, as no boost.
Can the 3 bar still be used and will it preform just as good as the 1 bar or should i buy a new one to suit?

Also, can i use the std TPS or do i need a vl commodore type, which i do have.?

On another note, i will be putting up for sale an Emanage blue unit with everything supplied, manuals, support tools, harness, EO1 display, pressure sensor, solenoid, bla h blah.

[Omegaman]

Single wire one is the gauge temp sensor
Two wire green one is the ECU temp sensor
Other two wire one is the cold start injector switch, called the thermotime switch on your diagram.

As far as I can recall the aux air valve just gets a straight IGN power and it closes of its own accord as the element in it warms up.

You may have the cold start injector and the aux air valve wired wrong but i'll give this a re-read when i'm not so tired and posting from my phone.

I've check the wiring and also swapped the temp sensor and thermotime. She didn't even look like starting.
I swapped them back and she started...but stalled.
the cold start injector gets good power when cranking and then cuts off, (checked with node light) which seems normal to me.

i will persist with this till i get the haltech and wiring sorted, then swap them and see how i go.
i really want the std ECU to work properly before i ditch it to storage.

[Omegaman]

Solution - get the ignition advance plate in your dissy welded to "lock" the ignition timing from the dissy.
Buy adpatronic or other ECU with fuel AND ingition timing control.

Get the ECU to control both fuel and ignition timing...... seriously it makes a big difference.

I have a spare elec dizzy for the geu.
When you say weld, do you mean a spot weld on the top plate to stop it slightly turning & also the bracket the weights are fixed too. (see pic)

[Pagie84a]

I think u need tps sensor I was researching this a while ago till I got the 1uz instead ill be keen to see how this goes for you wanna do it to my rg when I find another car for it

[Omegaman]

Well I have the full std setup. So the TPS I have is the 3 switch poten type.
But I will not ask any questions on Haltech and wiring here yet. I still have the issues that need to be solved on std ECU.

edit. just downloaded the Haltech e6k dos program. I managed to load also Dosbox and have it load with a short cut on windows 7 OS.
Any I.T guys would know that's tough for a non IT guy. So I managed that, but still no joy on wiring..lol
Still waiting on the Haltech to be delivered...

[Omegaman]

Ok haltech received, wiring sorted, now online. So I need a base map.
the Haltech came off a VL c'ore, so changed the setup to suit 18rgeu.
But ideas where to go for base map would be great.

[ra_28]

If you can't find one for a 18rg, try 4age. A 4age computer will apparently run a 18rg. I used a map from one as a starting point with my Aurtonic SM4...

[Omegaman]

YES, yr right. when I was playing with emanage blue, I used the 4age settings and she worked.
on the net now for info.

cheers

[lilcrash]

I've got an 18rg map. Flick me your email and il send it through.

[The Witzl]

Omegaman.....

In refernence to locking the distributor - yes you need to spot weld the plate the advance weights sit on (and remove the weights) so that it moves exactly the same as the dissy shaft.
Similarly, you need to somehow LOCK the vacuum advance plate too. From memory i screwed it somehow, but that was many many years ago now.


As for the TPS - yes you will need to get a full variable TPS. The old switch type TPS is a complete waste of time.
I found that with a little bit of modification work, you can get the TPS from a Nissan Pintara (the RWD, looks like R31 skyline) to fit the 18RGEU throttle body.
IIRC, remove the old TPS, make a plate with some 2-3mm alloy that fits where the old tps fit (drilled out in the centre to alloy the shaft to come thru), and then attach the pintara TPS to the plate.

If you harrass me on facebook tonight i'll snap a photo of my one in the garage.

[Omegaman]

I've got an 18rg map. Flick me your email and il send it through.

Lilcrash, thanks for the chance to get a base map off you.
email add is. [email protected]
if anyone has further info and pics that may help me. feel free to use this email address.

Omegaman.....

In refernence to locking the distributor - yes you need to spot weld the plate the advance weights sit on (and remove the weights) so that it moves exactly the same as the dissy shaft.
Similarly, you need to somehow LOCK the vacuum advance plate too. From memory i screwed it somehow, but that was many many years ago now.


As for the TPS - yes you will need to get a full variable TPS. The old switch type TPS is a complete waste of time.
I found that with a little bit of modification work, you can get the TPS from a Nissan Pintara (the RWD, looks like R31 skyline) to fit the 18RGEU throttle body.
IIRC, remove the old TPS, make a plate with some 2-3mm alloy that fits where the old tps fit (drilled out in the centre to alloy the shaft to come thru), and then attach the pintara TPS to the plate.

If you harrass me on facebook tonight i'll snap a photo of my one in the garage.

As i mentioned, i did get a TPS off a VL, but in looking at it it has 2 plugs. One is like the std tps square plug and the other is similar to say a MAP sensor plug.
can i use either plug or is this still the wrong type?
EDit. the tps i have is from an auto VL, as opposed to one without 2nd plug (manual g/box) thus having the extra plug for auto g/box kick down...or similar...so it should do. yeh.

As far as the dizzy is concerned, good to know i need to take the weights off. i get where to fix the dizzy shaft and plate.
What happens to the vacuum advance and retard hoses. As mine has both. Will they just be blocked on the dizzy, what needs to be done to the TVS thingy, where the hoses are connected too?

[Omegaman]

ok some quick Haltech e6k to 18rgeu setup questions. true or false or other?

using dizzy/igniter.

1. load sensing- manifold or TPS, i put manifold.
2. map sensor- i have a 3 bar sensor, but should i put 1 bar in the parameter or 3? as its NA engine?
3. decel cut off- i disabled t/f?
4. Inj mode- i put multi point T/F or batch firing????
5. zero throttle map -i disabled t/f
6. full throttle threshold - i put 95% ??? 70 - 100% which is best?
7. trigger input - Int reluctor for dizzy??? t/f
8. out put type - constant charge T/f
9. coil charge time WTF....start at 3 and head to 4-5?????
10. output edge -i have falling t/f
11. i have a narrow band single wire O2 sensor & a LC1 wideband that is connected seperate atm.
which should i connect to the e6k, im thinking narrowband and leave WB to datalog with own sofware...T/F?
12. would you connect both lift and h/flow pumps on same main wire with 2 relays or use the Auxiliary fuel pump function & have the eg. lift pump
continually on? i think same wire 2 relays. no need for Aux function T/F?
13. is idle speed control & Aux air pump & anti stall control the same thing? Is the GEU air valve connected to this to control low down idling?
14. if rule of thumb is for every 100kw needs around 670cc of fuel, say the engine is non std and around 140kw. thus 938cc div by 4 =235 cc inj at 100% at 80% duty cycle 4 x 440cc inj will be great. T/F
i may edit this as i read the 150pg manual...lol

[Omegaman]

If i was to add a twin coil pack with EMS igniter and get rid of Orig coil.
Would that work better if Haltech is in batch mode as opposed to multipoint setup?

Also, im assuming the Elec dizzy is fine (once locked) for this setup.
With the intention of step 2. being a trigger wheel on the dizzy or the crank sensor(hall effect?)
If one of these were to be done, which is the less hassle?