For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[RA35GT]

In principle, the ignition should be like this. (Ignore the points, the module would sort that out in this case)


It is easier to get a +Ig from the barrel though.

[Javal]

This is what it would be in actuality -



But let's isolate to ignition or injection first.

[Omegaman]

I will double check my wiring, as i do have an igniter also.
I cant believe how much of this is going wrong for me.
Can't thank you guys enough..
BUT don't go anywhere, just yet.

edit. here's a pic of igniter, hope the wires are right.
Though, when looking at how it ties in with the std wiring loom. I see that there a wire from the ballast R, to the IG (ignition switch).
oh, I need a break....

[Omegaman]

the more I dig, the more depressed I get.
took off some tape from main harness near the coil.
found a burnt wire. trying to find what its for on a wiring diagram. any help in identifying this?
the one wire with the loop is to (+coil).
Its a black/red wire that comes from both sides of the harness & has a loop connector as a join.

[Javal]

Bk/rd is IGN ON power. Will reply in more detail later on but that comes straight off the ignition barrel and may even be unfused, but that's crispy as fuck so it's had a bunch too much current through it, probably a result of a short to ground previously?

[Omegaman]

If it does come off the IGN barrel, it doesnt show it on the Haynes diagram.

[Javal]

I'm 99.99% sure that BK/RD (BR on diagram) is switched IGN ON power, it might be off the main relay or something, but i'm quite sure it's switched IGN power.

Tell me a few things - first up, what is it that the wire is connected to? I can't make it out from the picture.

Disconnect that wire from whatever that thing is and test it for continuity between the eye terminal on the wire to ground. Should be open circuit or at least 2k ohm+.

[Omegaman]

From what i recall, it did have power to it. But it was not connected at all.
It just has the ring connector on it and was taped up in the harness.
i will check it tonight for power and continuity.

[Omegaman]

I've tried again, re looked at everything. Still cannot find fault, that will stall the engine after 2-5 seconds.
fuel pressure was good at stall, well when it cut out.

[RA35GT]

Disconnect the cold start injector and see if it starts still.

Alternatively, are you sure the injectors themselves are squirting fuel? Does it run longer if you squirt aerostart or carby cleaner down the intake?

What if you manually push the afm open a little while it's idling?

The way it dies seems more fuel related to me

[Javal]

Disconnect the cold start injector and see if it starts still.

Alternatively, are you sure the injectors themselves are squirting fuel? Does it run longer if you squirt aerostart or carby cleaner down the intake?

What if you manually push the afm open a little while it's idling?

The way it dies seems more fuel related to me

100% agree.

She's running lean, barely enough fuel there to keep it running, hence why when you crack open the throttle it dies.

Try what RA35GT has said. One thing to be wary of also is that fuel pressure does not equal fuel flow. You could pull off the return hose from the hardline, turn the pumps on for a second and check you have a good stream of fuel coming through.

Also what injectors are you using? Standard low-impedance type along with a resistor?

[Omegaman]

Seriously, you feel its a fuel thing....
i hope so, cause i can't diagnose any more wiring issue's. Its driving me batty.
Looking at the fuel pressure gauge, just led me to believe there was still pressure when it died.
As you saw on the gauge psi is at 36 or so, should this be bumped up to 43psi or there about's?
obviously after i do the test's as stated above....

Ok, i'll give it a go tonight.
My injectors are 240cc low imp. As opposed to the std 210cc.

RA35GT, i spent some time yesterday reading your thread back when you 1st started to wire up the tractor.
I now feel your frustration, at least now there's more guys like yourselves, who have been there to help.
Most of the advise back then was to ditch the std ECU or just discrased at butchering the loom...lol
Good on you for ploughing through.

also after this harness, if anyone has one lying around on a spare car.
i just want to eliminate any problems that may arise from the melted wires, shown previously.


this was the youtube vid from over a year ago. The issue has been ongoing since then.
so if i give up again, expect it to sit around for another year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaFrqVLqrRk

[Omegaman]

Disconnect the cold start injector and see if it starts still.

Alternatively, are you sure the injectors themselves are squirting fuel? Does it run longer if you squirt aerostart or carby cleaner down the intake?

What if you manually push the afm open a little while it's idling?

The way it dies seems more fuel related to me

Ok. disconnected the cold start Inj. she started great.
tried to spray down the intake, but that was hard with the AFM. every time I disconnected the intake it would stall, before I sprayed anything.
manually opening the AFM, she stalls.
When I disconnect the return line from the fuel rail, petrol pours out in a nice thick stream, as opposed to excess dribble when not on.

I will check the hoses to the rising fuel pressure gauge, to make sure that's not back the front and the vacuum hose off it, is connected to the correct locations.
other than that. lets see.......

edit. regulator is correct, vacuum to intake, correct. I bumped the pressure up to 43psi, felt it lasted a bit longer........but now im screwed.....

[Omegaman]

quick question.
there are 2, even 3 sensors on the geu thermostat housing.
1 is the gauge temp sensor.
1 is the green temp sensor connected to ECU
& 1 is the brown sensor, which is what exactly. Also connected to the ECU.
on my Diag it says ...well it says nothing. which is confusing.
I have the cold start and the thermotime switch, which i assume is the Air valve, under the cold start injector, which is blue.
so what is the other brown sensor??????
my thought is maybe i have these confused and the car starts but as it warms up it reads it wrong?????

[Javal]

Single wire one is the gauge temp sensor
Two wire green one is the ECU temp sensor
Other two wire one is the cold start injector switch, called the thermotime switch on your diagram.

As far as I can recall the aux air valve just gets a straight IGN power and it closes of its own accord as the element in it warms up.

You may have the cold start injector and the aux air valve wired wrong but i'll give this a re-read when i'm not so tired and posting from my phone.