For the love of a tractor engine: The life and times of the 18R-G

[o_man_ra23]

I have seen a 1UZ in a KP starlet...

(mind you that was a very butchered starlet!! And in Kiwi land)

[bnicho]

Okay, I've finally got the 18RGU in my RT112 Corona running nicely! Not through any effort of my own though.

I took it to Thornbury carburettor services for jetting, balancing and a tune and it came back running a lot better.

I was surprised when he told me that the engine has reground non-standard cams of some sort. Partially explains why I could never get it to idle smoothly!! It also may have high compression pistons! It's possible I suppose, I have no history of this engine, it was in an eBay find Corona.

Thornbury's set the static ignition timing two degrees advanced over stock. He told me that the dizzy needs regraphing to suit the cam/compression and he recommended an upgrade to HEI as well. Suggested I take it to Scorcher ignition in Nunawadding.

The engine still lacks torque off the line and has a slight flat spot, but explodes into motion once it hits 3,500ish, so I guess that's just the wilder cams. He suggested the ignition upgrade would help?

Does this sound like a good idea to the collective 18RG wisdom? What have others done with their ignition systems?

It's currently running 22RE coil and ignitor with stock 18RGU electronic dizzy, the pollution type with advance and retard vacuum ports.

Cheers,

[o_man_ra23]

I have just performed the simplest method of locking my dizzy (I'll get a photo up in my RA28 thread before the weekend is out), but once you lock your dizzy, you can use a programmable aftermarket ignition module to set the curve (ie, no need to re-graph the dizzy physically) which will allow you to program out flat spots. A set of hotter running plugs might also help to bring some more torque down low, though this may cause a bit of run on (dieselling). Another thing you can try is a stronger coil, one of the 60,000 volt units should suffice.

What you have done sounds good thus far though, what are you revving it to?? With hotter cams and properly tuned, it should be able to surpass the normal 7000rpm...

[bnicho]

Thanks for the advice. Programmable ignition sounds like a good idea. I'm using the plugs recommended in this thread somewhere, but I've forgotten the part no.

I'm not actually sure what I'm revving it to, as there is no tacho fitted. I must get around to fitting the GT dash cluster.

I'm pulling 55kph in first, 85 in second and about 105 in third without any complaints. Box is a W50 and diff is a 4.1:1 It seems to want to rev more, but I'm not willing to try without a tacho.

Breathing through K&N's and with extractors and a 2 1/4" system it sounds absolutely horn. I love flooring it just to hear the noise.

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, a tacho is a must when you start opening up the top end of an engine!! Those speeds sound ok, but depending on which W50 you have, you could likely get plenty more out. If you have the later W50 (as found in 78 on) then you have a lot to go before reaching the peak of that motor. If you have the early box, then you are probably at the peak of a stock motor, which would allow you a bit more on top with what you likely have. All a bit of a guessing game though until you get a tacho, so best to keep driving like you are until you can be sure of the limit.

[bnicho]

Agreed, I think I'll stap a tacho on somewhere until I get time to sort the GT dash loom.

I have no idea on the history of this W50. It came with the motor and it shifts really nicely and makes no noises. But I have a rebuilt P51 sitting in the shed ready to go. (Another job I should get around to.)

I'm embarrassed to say I put the RT112 away in Nov last year and ignored it until the last few weeks. I was so disheartened with the way it was running I couldn't be stuffed getting it out. I played with my Moke and finished the second garage instead.

[SilverRA23]

RT112 looks magic Brett - nice to meet you today!

[bnicho]

RT112 looks magic Brett - nice to meet you today!

Great to meet you too, and great to see some old-school cars there. But you should have parked the "mission brown" inside the fence.

[Steve M]

bnicho, does your engine really suffer when you dump the accellerator fast?

Which model carbies do you have?

[bnicho]

bnicho, does your engine really suffer when you dump the accellerator fast?

Which model carbies do you have?

I wouldn't say it really suffers, it's just a bit hesitant from a standing start or from low revs. Once some revs are on board it pulls well straight away. eg: change back into 3rd at 90 and giving it full throttle and it hauls straight away.

If you granny shift at low revs it drives fine. You can avoid the flat spot.

Carbs are Solex S5 rebuilt by Roger.

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, sounds like the cams are playing with the tune. How old are your plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor button?? If you are running the 22RE ignition module, just remember that is designed to run a truck motor that revs freely to 500rpm.

[bnicho]

Yeah, sounds like the cams are playing with the tune. How old are your plugs/leads/dizzy cap/rotor button?? If you are running the 22RE ignition module, just remember that is designed to run a truck motor that revs freely to 500rpm.

Hi,

Plugs leads and cap are less than a year old. I've no idea how old the rotor is. Cap is a bosch replacement for the early 18R denso dizzy and doesn't fit perfectly but seems to work fine. (Same as the one on my RT132 for that matter.) I should probably buy a genuine cap and rotor. Anyone got the part numbers?

I got hold of a 22RE module because I was told it was better than the Holden one it was running previously.

Another thing, it's really grumpy to start when cold, even using the starter "choke".

Cheers,

[Roscos]

For my 2 cents worth, Brett go and buy the Scorcher electronic dissy and get the Bosch coil to match. It is model HEC 715. I put one in years ago and it was the best thing l could have done. Once it is set you forget about it because you don't have to touch it.
It's not cheap to buy but worth the money.
With the later model dissys you might have give them a body so they can build it, l have an early model one.

Roscos

[bnicho]

For my 2 cents worth, Brett go and buy the Scorcher electronic dissy and get the Bosch coil to match. It is model HEC 715. I put one in years ago and it was the best thing l could have done. Once it is set you forget about it because you don't have to touch it.
It's not cheap to buy but worth the money.
With the later model dissys you might have give them a body so they can build it, l have an early model one.

Roscos

Great, this is the sort of feedback I was hoping to find. Approx how much moolah?

I don't drive the car daily so I'd happily remove the current one for them to rebuild. Or give them an earlier body if an 18R points type will do.

[Roscos]

Brett are you running a 253 head? The dissy should bolt to the front of timing cover where mine bolts to the block, thats why you might have to give them your dissy.

Price wise you are going to be looking at $500 because l paid $350 over 10 years ago and they installed it for me.


Roscos