dammit, it formatted out all my extra spaces... Front is to the right in both diagrams
Crank caps: 10-11kgm (72.3-79.6ftlb) In 2-3 stages, in sequence shown below:
| | | | | FRONT
4 2 1 3 5
Rod caps: 6.4-7kgm (46.3-50.6ftlb)
Flywheel: 8.2-8.8kgm (59.3-63.7ftlb)
Head bolts: 7.2-8.8kgm (52.1-63.7ftlb) In sequence shown below:
9 4 2 5 7
. . . . .
FRONT
. . . . .
10 6 1 3 8
Cam caps: 1.7-2.3kgm (12.3-16.6ftlb) In outside to in sequence (1, 5, 2, 4, 3 as denoted on caps)
That's the main things to look out for. Let me know if you need any other data.
Nikita the RA23 is almost finished.
dammit, it formatted out all my extra spaces... Front is to the right in both diagrams
Nikita the RA23 is almost finished.
Originally Posted by Javal
check around the bungs for cracks thats where alot of cracks form usually in alloy heads
Hey 18R-G crew -
- having some trouble sourcing some pistons. Who's got some ideas?
The only ones i've found are $1500 custom forgies. Not really keen to spend THAT much :S
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Still around $1200 - $1300 shipped (fucking exchange rate)... look good though.Originally Posted by hosking1991
Anyone else?
Thanks hosking![]()
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Sorry Roscos, missed your post.Originally Posted by Roscos
I've got one I can lend you if you still need it. I'm in Laverton.
Timbo
Timbo, l will pm you after the new year and come down and get it.
Roscos
Originally Posted by Javal
by the time you spend all that dough you could have a better motor for less
whether if that thats waiting around for a better rg or putting something like a 1g or sr is up to you
hey all.
not often in here. Ive got 3 ra28's, one with 18rc. one shitbox shell and one decent shell that i put back together with spare parts last weekend.
among those spare parts was a good cond 18rg and a w40 box and twin dellorto carbies so i though hmmm maybe if i put 2 and 2 together this thing might go alright. but me being used to a 10 second 1jz i thought nah thats not going to do at all so i came to the conclusion that if i can find a manifold cheap enough or get one bodgeyed up i'll throw a spare ct12a on the side to really make it go.
so im just seeing if anyone knows of a 18rg turbo manifold which is cheap or and old clunker of a thing i dont really care because where ever the turbo ends up sitting the dump pipe will probably be coming out the bonnet anyway so i dont care what car its for or what flange its got. so if someone knows somone wlse who is trying to get rid of one..... pm me asap.
also on the topic of 18rg's. i bought one with a shell for 300 bux about 6 months ago and its been sitting in my shed ever since and i dont really know much about it except its a shitload better than the 18r-c. So would anyone happen to know roughly how strong these things are internally from the factory??? im probably looking at anywhere between 5-10psi so will i be seeing bits of rod out the side of the block or will it be pretty safe??
Cheers for you help in advance guys..
Jak
'77 RA28 Celica - Repairing Rust...
'84 AE71 Daily Driver/Race Car
'91 MX83 - Fastest Standard Turbo 1JZ Powered Vehicle In The World -
10.74 @124 Mph
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H2ido6yirZ8
Ok kids, here's another one for you:
For those who've rebuilt their 18R-G's and fitted new conrod studs / bolts - where did you get them from?
Extensive searching has come up with little.
ARP has a listing for 2TG / 3T, i imagine these would be similar. If you guys can't think of anything i'll just have to email and get some specs to compare.
So, thoughts?
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Arp 22r conrod bolt go straight in. Just fitted some last week.
Cheers
Alex
You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to ra_28 again.
The 18R-G. The GOOD 2 Litre Tractor motor.
Which are, surprisingly, the same as 3S rod bolts![]()
I didn't get any repOriginally Posted by Javal
![]()
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