turbo upgrade for 1GGTE

[fingers]

The KKR range that OTMOTO (sponsor) import are a good cheep option

My2c

Ben

I've looked at them and thought for the money they would be worth a go.

3076r would come on at about 3800-4000 with a .63 rear.
with gears maybe faster, then cams and springs quicker again.

I was thinking that turbo with say a 6boost manifold and accessories it would spool well as give a pretty goo top end. Well, any lag you could live with is what I mean.

[love ke70]

with the cost of a 6 boost manifold why not get a good turbo too?

[IN 05 NT]

gt3071r FTMFW

[16OTU]

Hey 160TU I am getting some cams this following week for the 1G from Waggot cams. I am sending mien away and then send them all your specs, gear ratio, stall and the reground you a custom set from your cams. Also big help is if you get adjustable cam gears as you get full use of the new cams and easier to dial them in. If you interested PM maybe he can do better on the price with two sets. I am paying $800 for a set.

My engine done 174 thousand km but compression at 162 thousand was a lovely 155 on all cylinders except two that showed 150 across the board so the rings are still in good nick. Should be good for 200rwkw with cams I hope but the auto will hinder the dyno numbers a bit...

Thanks for the offer but i'm not a fan of reground cams and have been made an offer to get a set of billet with a mate, 2 sets for a bit more than 1. I have a set of custom made gears and dialed the stockers just to get it on boost a bit quicker.

If your wanting good power then you need a good aftermarket ecu. Not a fan of microtec as they simply aren't adjustable enough, I run a haltech.

Ron

[BLK1g-gte]

Tell me a bit more on the affect adjustable cam gears on stock cams. What were the benefits? Did you gain better spool-bottom end, any difference in midrange or top end when adjusting them? I have a set my self as well and was after cams to get a bit more bottom midrange as the 1G needs this the most in a heavy soarer but if I can get more bottom end with adjusting the cam gears I might grind the cams towards strong midrange and top end power.

What would the price be for another set thrown in and what time frame. Just curious? I prefer billet over regrinding like any person in the know but price wise they are too expensive for a custom billet grind to justify my power goal...

No need for Standalone Management as the turbo's are only good for just over 200rwkw from the information i have gathered on here. The standard ECU can handle this fine with the piggyback controllers i am running.

[TA-022]

TheToyoman (Rod) has 192kw and no piggybacks black ...... and no major work.

[fingers]

with the cost of a 6 boost manifold why not get a good turbo too?

Yeah, that's what I meant.

[BLK1g-gte]

Yep thats what i mean, You don't need Standalone for just over 200rwkw but TheToyoman (Rod) 1G is a bit of a freak. One of those one in a million engine's, or just still very fresh and not worn.
Also my is auto so it will have to produce at least 10% more then a manual to get the same figure..

[TheToyman75]

Black,

My engine package is indeed above adverage. The engine sat around for quite a few years before I got it and it compression tests at 175PSI in every cylinder so is probably healthier than most of what is on offer now.

Being an Auto you do need to stick with the factory ECU and a good quality Piggy Back ECU is the ideal choice for you. If you have not got it yet I strongly recommend the Xede processor. Its not the cheapest unit around at rrp of $995 but if you add a boost solenoid it will happily control your boost, timing and fuel. If you were a local I could do you a trade deal at work (SAS) What piggy backs are you planning to use ?

On the road my girl does suffer a little to get the 192kw, I have had to retard the base timing by 2 degrees to stop knock retard and as we all know off the line responce is effected heavily by the amount of timing you can run. With aftermarket management I would deffinatly have a more responsive package but I'm more than happy with my results so far for the work thats been done.

All going to plan I do want to crack the 200rwkw mark at the next dyno day. I'll give it a shot anyway. $$$ may foul my plans but we will see what happens.

The new boost controller is installed but not set up on the dyno yet and Twin dumps are currently in development I have had a minor set back with my front strut tops blowing the urethane out so that may cripple the budget for the time frame.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Twin dumps ey? I've only got one pic of these mythical beasties, you need to make sure you get lots of pics!

[Joshstix]

Twin dumps ey? I've only got one pic of these mythical beasties, you need to make sure you get lots of pics!

If they get made and are useful I'm sure there will be a group buy on them since they'll be coming from a sponsor.

[TA-022]

would this not require a 180 spin on the rear turbo?

otherwise i cant see enough space to make twin dumps down the guts that would do much better.

but please prove me wrong ... more power is good power!

[JustCallMeOrlando]

If they get made and are useful I'm sure there will be a group buy on them since they'll be coming from a sponsor.

Hehe, that goes against my "not spending any more money on this car" think pattern. Any improvements I make will come through utilising shit I have laying around

[16OTU]

Tell me a bit more on the affect adjustable cam gears on stock cams. What were the benefits? Did you gain better spool-bottom end, any difference in midrange or top end when adjusting them? I have a set my self as well and was after cams to get a bit more bottom midrange as the 1G needs this the most in a heavy soarer but if I can get more bottom end with adjusting the cam gears I might grind the cams towards strong midrange and top end power.

What would the price be for another set thrown in and what time frame. Just curious? I prefer billet over regrinding like any person in the know but price wise they are too expensive for a custom billet grind to justify my power goal...

No need for Standalone Management as the turbo's are only good for just over 200rwkw from the information i have gathered on here. The standard ECU can handle this fine with the piggyback controllers i am running.

Well for a start some stock 1g cams have 3 pin locations, tdc, advanced and retarded. Don't know how many deg they are but I played with them and the difference from having the exhausted advanced and inlet retarded to increase valve overlap (would be good for n/a I think) to exhaust retarded and inlet advance to decrease overlap was huge. The 2nd was best for turbo as it kept more of the charge in the cylinder and didn't allow as much to go straight out the exhaust.
Example, when I incresed overlap it went hard and hooked up but then when I decressed it and had even turned the boost down 2psi it was spinning all over the place.
When I fitted the adjustable gears I kept this spacing and just advanced both cams by 10 deg with made it spool faster and come on harder, but mine has always been VERY laggy but from starting with a t04r and making it to basicly a t66 with a p trim and going from .7 to .84 and 4 psi more my full boost has only incressed by 500rpm but you can notice that it starts making it sooner as it will just flutter at 3k now.
Hope that helps and can't really go into all the exact deg as I have never really know just tried to see what worked the best for my setup. Also never tried advancing both cams with the stock gears.
Ron

[chris davey]

I am just wondering how people come up with the fact that getting cams in an engine will bring the boost on earlier? AFAIK this is only the case when there is an increase in lift but not much more duration. The opposite to this is that if you have long duration cams you can make power well into the upper rpms as can be seen with 6boosts car.

By getting cam gears you are effectively moving the power band of your engine around. Depending on what you do with them, you can attempt to bring it on quicker or make power longer or a compromise of the two.

blk1g: if you haven't got one already I think the best thing for low down response in your car would be a stall converter. Instead of trying to make the engine bring boost on quicker (via cams, cam gears etc) you let the auto bring the revs up quicker. I don't know if you are still on stock turbos but when I had my auto gz20 it really didn't start moving until 4000rpm. If you had say a 2800stall the initial flash to this rpm would decrease the amount of time to get it onto boost and because of this you could tune cams and gears to continue to make power up top instead of down low.

As I don't know your whole setup some of this could be wrong but that is what I would be doing if I had an auto gz20 with stock turbos (or single actually) and BPU mods.