rust bubbles? Advice repairing cracks and bog spots....

[RiceburnaGTV]

Joey,thats a shame to hear mate...what I would do is go around the car with a magnet and check where else they have bogged the thing up because if it is popping up on some of these little areas its likely to come up elswhere aswell.Dont fret too much tho man, worst case is you do the following and maybe down the track introduce yourself to the art of sanding a prepping a paint job,it isnt that hard..

It looks more like a shitty bog job on the bootlid than servere rust,it could have just been from filling in a dent,the under carridge bit looks like they havent sanded it back properly or applied an even amount of paint,I would just fill that area up with a fine tipped brush myself.As for the boot try and source a good condtion one strip it all back yourself and then take it to a shop to paint it with your left over paint.

good luck

Cheers
nath

[joey]

Well the bog job on the bootlid is a definant possibility as when i purchased the car in different light you could see a circular area about 3 1/2cm in diameter that looked like a dent in the paint and that area is right around where the cracks are...
By filling it up with a fine tipped brush do you mean with paint or bog?
Well im off, going to go round the car with a magnet

[joey]

The cracks on the bootlid do not seem to be bog (going by the magnet theory) but however the split close to the muffler is definentaly bog as it is an alot weaker magnetic pull around that area. Do i just fill in the crack with paint or do i put a rust preventer in the crack and then paint it even though it's bog?
EDIT: on closer look it seems the larger crack on the bootlid starts/finishes right in the centre of the thin circular dent... i should get this sanded back and bogged to prevent something like this happening again yes?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Air has found its way under the paint, a reaction has occurred to form the paint polymer coating to fail. Painting or puttying over this will just make it happen again, but it will be harder to clean when you decide to fix it properly.

You can either tip some prepsol in the cracks and then fill it in with paint so it looks like a lump with the diameter drawn though it with an engraver. EDIT - this is the "im going to sell the car within a month" plan.

Or you can sand/strip back the area. However, sanding back paint is kinda like Pringles, once you start, you cant stop - and i dont mean its fun/tasty/doubles as a bongo.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

There will be no effect if you put rust converter (zinc phosphate treatment) on paint or putty, it needs an iron oxide/phosphate direct contact.

The magnet trick is only an indicator, the putty could be to thin to prevent the magnetic field, however i doubt the use of putty on a boot lid. Especially if the under side looks fine.

[joey]

How long would something like a rust proventer inbetween the cracks on the bootlid, then filled with a small amount of some type of bog, painted and finally coated over with acrylic roughly last for until i can affod the proper job to be done?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Its called rust converter, not preventer as its not possible no prevent rust.
It wont do anything unless you are sanding back to bare metal/bare rust.

Painting over the crack will last a month.

NB: a "proper" job is a complete bare metal respray and repair. I cant even think of a price, but 10k? probably something like that.

[RiceburnaGTV]

With the split on the bottom rear of the car just fill it in with paint,make sure it is sealed other than that you cant see under there so who cares aslong as water cant hold under there it should be fine,as for the boot,its only the boot so take the fukker off and strip it back,obviousy t up a painter to paint it for you before hand so it can be sorted after just a weekend.

As for that other rust bubble,how did the magnet react around it? and the rest of the car for that matter?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

You should repair the boot properly like riceburna said, if its really bad just buy another one?

Prepsol before you paint over anything,
Good luck with it.

[RiceburnaGTV]

Its called rust converter, not preventer as its not possible no prevent rust.
It wont do anything unless you are sanding back to bare metal/bare rust.

Painting over the crack will last a month.

NB: a "proper" job is a complete bare metal respray and repair. I cant even think of a price, but 10k? probably something like that.

Ahhh Joey dont fret man spray jobs arent 10K,and the problems you have there arent that bad,the worst is that little bubble and just make sure you check over the rest of the car thoroughly with the magnet. Check all the usual areas,along the top of the roof,cnrs of the windscreens etc..

Back to paying 10K for a spray job,well anything over 3K in my opinion.If you can swing a spanner you can get most opf the hardest part of spraying a car out of the way.Someone always knows someone who can weld or atleast know of a spray painter who will just rock up and spray the thing,its the prep they cbf doing.

Cheers
Nath

[sidta23]

Geez sid, are you purposly trying to make me shit my pants I definentaly hope its just those few spots

Hi Joey not trying to scare you but to do it properly go back to bare metal & cut out any rust & weld in new steel its the only way, Isopon (or bog as u guys call it) will only last a small time & create worse rust underneath, here are some pics of what were only small bubbles on my ta23.







my advise is if you want a really good job done is buy a mig welder & do it yourself

[Alex]

Those bubbles are called humidity blisters and they are caused by moisture, not air and they are from poor prep work, like bogging over rust or leaving your bog or primer exposed to the elements,ie; moisture.

Bog and primer are both pouris and when exposed to moisture the bog/primer will draw the moisture in and trap it behind paint (once painted)

So the only way for the moisture to get out is to rust and bubble it's way out.

If you are going to fix it yourself, make sure you use etch primer before the regular primer, it is non pouris, it will "seal" the bare metal

[infotechplus]

One of the great mysteries of the automobile is bodyfiller or "bog" as we refer to it. You prepare it by mixing two materials, one a catalyst which sets of the hardening process. Depending on how hot it is on the day you mix it and whether you mix it in the correct proportion will determine whether or not you do a good job. Too little catalyst and the bog won't 'go off' or set; too much and it goes off so fast it's useless in two minutes.

Bog is applied to dings to even out the upper surface, and when painted gives an 'as new' finish. It has fantastic adhesion qualities over bare metal. Uusually, if there are holes, say rust holes, these can be sanded, neutralised (as mentioned above), then filled. Big holes can have fibreglass patched behind them as this gives the bog something to adhere to as well. Then you etch prime (you HAVE to do this over bare metal), then normal prime or even primer/surfacer (like a thick undercoat usually dull yellow colour when dry). Then sand and paint ad nauseum. Then cutback and polish.

You can get a complete car sandblasted and painted for about $5K. Small jobs are expensive too because the cost of the job is in the preparation, not the paint. That's why it is good to do them yourself - you can learn to do it on scrap panels first. After a few attempts and some mistakes you'll get the hang of it.

Cracks like in the photo are, as has been said, due to the bog shrinking on the panel due to any number of reasons - moisture sealed in, bog mixed incorrectly, or just a quick-fix effort. Sand it out and start again.

Small rust spots are big spots starting out in life! You need to sand them back and neutralise them. Same procedure as above.

The crack in the lower valance is probably a combination of shrinking and the panel moving. Not much you can do but short term it can be repaired but you'll be doing it almost every year. You could weld it and grind it back. That is a more permanent solution.

Cheers,

Peter

[ian]

hey joey
give me a ring
it is the bog lifting
its no big deal
if you have the paint and if, you can do the prep work {i will show you } i can paint it for you
ian
0413994811

[joey]

As for that other rust bubble,how did the magnet react around it? and the rest of the car for that matter?

Well i didn't really feel a diference at all when i went over the small bubble I only did a reasonably quick overview with the magnet over the car and it seemed ok to me but will go over it again later in more detail.

Ian, that would be fu*k*ng fantastic, i will give ya a ring later tonight when i get back from tafe around 6'ish. Looks like i will be calling upon that favour earlier than i though


As for stripping down the whole car and painting it again... i wouldnt have the money sadly (at tafe 5 days a week and working two 3hour shifts if im lucky.... which normally goes to petrol). If the spots start popping up all over the car i may have to cut my losses and sell, but fingers crossed.