rust bubbles? Advice repairing cracks and bog spots....

[joey]

Hey all,
I was cleaning up my car today and came by these:
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...i/P1011177.jpg (on the boot lid, measure around 2cm each) The bottom one i saw about 3 weeks ago and i noticed last week the other one has appeared. In the bottom one i can see a tiny brown spot inbetween the crack and has a slight circular raise around it.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...i/P1011179.jpg This bad boy i spotted today, its brown inbetween the crack but i cannot be sure that this is all from rust as the car is reasonably low and does tend to hit speed bumps if im not precautious.
http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...i/P1011181.jpg Spotted this today, its raised in a bubble form but only spans about 1cm.

Is this the start of the rusting process? If so are there anyway ways (cheap preferrably) to stop the effected areas getting worse and worse or am i going to have to cut my losses and get them sanded back and bogged?

[MWP]

The cracks, bubbles could just be the paint lifting, but the only way to be sure is to crack off some of the paint and see whats beneath.
You will have to repair the cracked paint even if there isnt any rust underneath, because if you leave it, it will start to rust.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Cracks are because its a cheap paint and it cant take the stress of heating up and cooling down. But mainly because the surface was not clean when painted. Bubbles are from the surface not being clean as well.

As MWP said, it doesnt matter if its rust or not because the whole area needs to be stripped back to bare metal and the metal treated for rust with zinc phosphate anyway. And i suggest dont go back to the same painter. Looks acrylic, maybe just buy 10 cans and spray it/sand back/spray/sand back... are you going to sell the car soon anyway?

As for "cheap option", that doesn't exist with cars. You can repair it your self and it will probably cost under 200 which id say is cheap but it will take a long time, and im assuming you have all the tools.

[skiddz]

the second pic is bog crack, and goes to show thy bog is not mightier than thy metal get the grinder with a flap wheel on it smash those mofo's and repaint

but i suspect these bubbles arent a result of bad paint but rather a horrible astra bar on the front

[joey]

First off thanks for the input guys.
Well i bought the car with that paint job and the guy was an ex-panelbeater who did it himself.... explains the crappy paint job theory. I'm not intending to sell it anytime soon... although i have been tempted to at times '
The car came with an extra 2 litres of the same paint, so if i can manage to sand them down and apply the anti-rust stuff then is there anyone on here in vic that has a bit of spray painting expeirience that would be able to touch up the damage?
Oh one last queston... if i sand it back will i have to bog it or can it leave as is?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Thats great u have the same paint, it probably not the same batch but at least it isnt an eye-job!

Sand it back, if it is all bare metal (surface rust is fine) then buy a rust converter/metal ready product and follow instructions, make sure you prime within the limited time. Then you can get it painted anytime. But primer aborbs water so dont drive in th rain! (realistically you should paint the top coat a day after primer).
Use the primer to fill in the area that has been sanded away, then sand to make a larger area. Then get the area painted and do the usual sand/paint/sand/paint/sand/sand/sand with all acrylics.

You will only need to use "bog" if you fine its all rust under there (i mean rust holes etc), then you will need to buy "POR 15" paint, and "Metal Ready" and "Marine Clean" (search POR 15 in google.com.au and you will fine 1 shop in Australia that sells all of it). Follow there instructions and prime within the said time.

Whether you find rust or not, you 'ought to fish oil the whole car.

[skiddz]

deodorised fish oil = winnnaaaaaa, goodness of teh fishz but with out the smellz

[joey]

Sorry for the noobness, but what do you mean by the sand/paint/sand/paint ect, wouldnt i just be sanding away the painted area and then repainting it with acrylic? And also primer is the spray on type crap that looks white yeah?

Cheers guys, joey

[skiddz]

mmmm maybe you should get somone to do it for ya

no offence intended, but "noobness" and a nice finish just dont go

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Yeah, basically what skiddz said

You cant simply paint acrylic on and BAM! it will look good. It needs to be sanded back and polished. But the reason you will need to sand back a lot more than normal is because of the area you have sanded out (to get rid of the cracks/bubbles), it will leave a depression and you have to fill it in, then the new paint will not line up with the old paint. Its VERY obvious when these kinda of fix-it jobs are done, sanding it back a few times will make it blend in better, but it will never be perfect.

This is what i am partially referring to with "cheap paint", as with a good spray of 2-PAC and after the week it takes to dry, you never touch it again in your life.

"Primer" is the act of priming a material. For automotive purposes, we usually use a GREY acrylic (both acrylic top coat and enamel top coat will stick to it, so its the best bet) Primer.
Its very forgiving and easy to sand back. For your purpose it is being used to make the area's as they should look physically before the top coat is applied. Then when the top coat is on you will need to sand a greater area back to make it smooth, and probably repeat that process a few times until it is a smooth as possible, then continue sanding will a higher grade (almost like paper), and then with polish.

I think ive repeated my self at least 4 times now, so that should do it

p.s. this is the reason why people dont bother repairing paint properly, and why you should appreciate a good paint job.

EDIT: forgot to say, sanding back is by HAND, you can not follow the cars lines with an orbital (electrical) sander - hope youve done your weetbix.

[allencr]

Bad body work, or bondo/bog slapped on over rust that is erupting & will be a horror show of rust under every thing!!!

[joey]

No offence taken. Might just go around and get a few quotes just to see how much...
Thanks for the explanation screamin sleeka, finally get it now As much as i want to give it a go (for personal expeirience) i must agree with skidzz on this one, probably not the best idea without the expirience or the precise know-how, i will probably end up with a shoddy job

Thanks alot guys, time to go put some money back into the celica

[sidta23]

This is exactly how my ta23 started when i took it back to the metal it was completly rusted i fitted the wide arch kit so i had to cut the rear arches away & weld the inner to the outer, all the rust now gone.

[joey]

Geez sid, are you purposly trying to make me shit my pants I definentaly hope its just those few spots

[MWP]

Rust is ALWAYS worse than it looks, thats why the earlier you fit it (properly), the better.