thats why i bought mine from you!
cheers mat
It depends on a few things.Originally Posted by SilverRA23
what ride height
what spring rate.
are you running tender/helper springs
free length of springs and compressed length at ride.
how much clearance do you need for your wheels? are they close to the struts? if so you may need to keep this in mind with your spring selection.
how long is the sleeve your welding on? this will also affect where its welded as you want to centre the adjusters at your chosen ride height as this will allow you to compensate for trying softer or harder springs.
its a fun game if you havn't done it before and want it spot on.
Cheers
Linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
thats why i bought mine from you!
cheers mat
Where do you normally measure ride height Linden? I did it from the ground to the top of the wheel arch.Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
Will be running 6kg springs - 335 lbs in the old money - would prefer not to use helper springs and the rest i would need to measure.
Sounds like i need to cut perches off, then dummy it up, and then weld it up. My fabby is 45 mins away so I was hoping to do it all in one go, but me thinks to do it right measure twice, cut once eh!
I'm about to do the same thing with my RA23. Does anyone have any opinions on using helper springs or not. It's purely for keeping the main springs captive yes?
1976 RA23 Celica - 3SGE Blacktop Beams Powered!
1994 KZN130 Surf - Daily 3ltr Turbo Diesel Goodness!
Motorsport engineers that I chat to all prefer to run without helper springs. They prefer to run just the one spring so they can be absolutely positive that any change they make to the car is down to one factor, rather than the interaction of two.
Originally Posted by Major Clod
You can avoid the use of helper springs, by selecting the correct position for the weld on sleeve, and selecting the longer springs 300mm versus 250mm.
cheers Chuck.
"What man can build, man can fix!"
MS51Crown Coupe,
GSV40R Aurion luxo tourer. One TA22 currently receiving some TLC prior to paint One RS56 Crown ute under construction, 2 x TA22's awaiting rebuilds. Toyota Crown RS47J ute in need of serious TLC. Toyota Crown Custom Wagon MS53 daily hauler stocko!
Ok one more question - master cylinder needs to be changed if going to hilux calipers. If I stick with the Corona 2 pot calipers can I keep my master cylinder?
I ran the standard MC on my '28 with the Corona 2 pots, and it was more than sufficient...
how do you figure that?Originally Posted by "Z" UTE
If you have X weight on it at ride then it wont make a difference where you weld it or how long the spring is.
OK lets take a car that has a front axle weight of 1200lbs, if you have springs rated to 400lb/in you will compress them 1.5" at ride (well less if you subtract unsprung weight but that complicates things too much)
lets reduce that to 300lb/in and we get 2" of spring compression at ridet. then we go down to 200lb springs, this will give 3" of spring compression.
Now lets say you have shock travel of 7" and you want to have 3" of droop and 4" of bump.
If you need to have the spring captive at full droop the only way you will get that is by running a 200lb (or softer) spring,
Now it doesn't matter what you do with the sleeve height etc the spring will only compress as much as the weight on it will push, so for a track orientated car that runs higher lb/in (say 300lbs) you can do 3 things and only 2 if you want the spring captive A; lesssen the amount of droop to 2" B; run a tender spring and get 3-4" of droop or C; let the spring hang in midair when the wheel is at full droop and hope that each time you hit a ripple strip the spring reseats properly and doesn't hit the shock shaft![]()
get what im talking about?
Silver, not knowing the strut length and sleave length doesn't help me much but it should sit roughly 2" down from the top of an unmodified strut if your running 225mm springs.
don't quote me on that thow as its just off the top of my head, best to do a dummy up starting with 2tacks on the strut and checking it, then adjust if needed.
335lb isnt going to give you much droop while remaining captive, why not get some stupidly soft tender/helper springs if your worried about running them?
cheers
linden
Originally Posted by WHITCHY
Fantasic post above. In regards to what i've just quoted, what factors/reasons would you want to consider when making a choice about bump/droop etc?Originally Posted by The Real Roadrunner
Cheers,
Ryan
1976 RA23 Celica - 3SGE Blacktop Beams Powered!
1994 KZN130 Surf - Daily 3ltr Turbo Diesel Goodness!
i think im right in saying this but tenders are illegal on a road car without an engineers cert. in saying that my engineer didint want me to run them on my car as he said there are other ways to fix that problem and linden just mentioned them.
my 2 bits mat
IIRC in NSW height adjustable suspenion is illegal unless its engineered, so either way its going to have to be certified.
Is anybody running the 2003-2006 Camry Master cylinder on the TA22 as mentioned on the 1st page? I'm trying to get the dimensions of it, most importantly the width of it.
Can anybody help?
1975 3T-GTE TA22 Celica
Hi,
so where can i get kyb rear inserts from cheap for this conversion??
Any help is appreciated.
bEn
FJ40 landcruiser
HJ47 landcruiser
FJ55 Landcruiser
MS65 Crown
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