The old "volvo diff into celica conversion"

[NME308]

Hey anyone able to tell me what is the minimum wheel diameter you can run with the Volvo diff?
I.E. I want to keep the stock 13inch steelies on my TA23!

Cheers,
Jason

[IN 05 NT]

14's minimum,

plus the standard celica wheel hub hole is too small for the hub on the volvo diff

[web]

Anyone tried Volvo front struts b4?

Working on that, there seems to be one series that gives less massive positive camber than the others.

Why? Comes with 287x22 or 280x26 brakes (easy upgrade to 302x26 !!!) and saves having the rear axles restudded, discs redrilled etc.

Positive ET and longer LCA's may be all I need to make both front and rear work without shortening anything. Oh, and custom RCA's of course, but they might just end up being a simple adapter plate.

[IN 05 NT]

havent heard of it, but would be interested if you can make the struts/brakes work tho,

the volvo stud pattern is 5x108....same as HQ's and toranas i beleive, which would make finding good rims difficult.....besides top $$$$ custom wheels...........

[ian]

havent heard of it, but would be interested if you can make the struts/brakes work tho,

the volvo stud pattern is 5x108....same as HQ's and toranas i beleive, which would make finding good rims difficult.....besides top $$$$ custom wheels...........

hi
they arent HQ pattern but , HD through to HK and toranas commonly called early holden

[The Witzl]

Looks like i might go down the volvo diff path myself, mainly cos of the low cost which INCLUDES rear disc brakes

This thread is a goldmine of information. Will read again. A++++

[web]

Many newer Volvos and Fords use 5x108 (5x4.25"), as well as older Volvos, smaller Jaguar models (= basically Fords) and some French cars. At least around here it's a little (but not that much, I'll admit) easier to find wheels for than 4x114.3 RWD offset.

Wheels that look good on an old Toyota is another matter, but I've already found a set of scruffy ET22 meshies to play around with, and found plenty others on fleabay in various offsets.

[The Witzl]

ok guys im starting to look quite seriously into the volvo diff conversion now for my KE70.
Im picking up the diff from smokey this weekend, and wanted to start booking in the work and ordering parts (cos craft diffs have a horrendous lead time, and linden wont touch ovlovs).

I want to get some kind of LSD or locker centre, but dont know what's worth getting. Im ont a pretty tight budget, so i dont want to be forking out >$600 just for the centre. All up i'd like the diff to cost less than $1000, which includes the $450 crafties have quoted to convert the mounts + restud to 4x113.4mm.

Would something like a Lockrite centre be a good/cheaper option? Open to suggestions/recommendations here

Also, whats this about the wheel hub centring thingo on the volvo diff being larger diameter than the normal celica one? Im planning to use MA61 wheels, so will i need to modify something?

Will i also need a custom adjustable panhard rod (like when doing hilux diff), or will a whiteline job clear the volvo diff ok?

I am also picking up some adjustable upper link arms tonight... just cos they are cheap

Im going to be honest and say i know buggerall about aftermarket diff centres. I know what a torsen is, and i know what a locker is... but which is cheaper and which is better for what applications?

Intended purpose of the car is 1/4 mile, and maybe one day some track days.

Looking forward to some wisdom shed my way

[stidnam]

Ha ha be prepared for a loooooooong wait for craft diffs. They took over 6 months to do two volvo diffs for us with constant hounding. If you are getting them to change the wheel bearings remind Red that he will need to machine the lock collars down if he is not using genuine volvo wheel bearings. He should remember what this is about.

Centre wise hmm as your main purpose is the drags then either a welded centre or a locker centre. The welded centre is the cheaper obviously but is a bitch on the road. The locker is about $500 delivered from the States (ebay linky). We ended going with the Detroit TruTrak which are the torsen centres. They costed $950 each from the importer who is actually on the same premesis as craft diffs. There is a rear or front centre for the dana 30 diff aka volvo diff so make sure that you get the rear one as it has a preload suited to rwd. I can dig out the part number if you need it. If you want to track it then a locker or welded centre is not the best.

The diameter of the stub of the axle that the wheel rests on is larger than the stock celica diameter so the stock wheels don't fit. I'd image that the KE70 is the same. MA61 rims may fit without machining but you'll need to measure the bore diameter of the MA61 rims.

The whiteline panhard bars just fit onto the celicas (22 & 28) and just touch the back cover of the diff during some part of its travel but nothing to worry about so you should be right. The bad thing about the whiteline bars is that they are not on car adjustable, well mine isn't so in hindsight I'd get Linden to make me up a custom one which is on car adjustable as he charges about the same $.

[IN 05 NT]

CIG Karl.........you should know better

MA61 rims WILL need the inner hub hole bored out a few mm..........i had to do this to a pair of 61 rims that i had slicks on..........hit up NEALES WHEELS.....they can machine the rim out,,

[The Witzl]

Blake.... the KE70 already has a welded diff, and its gheyer than aids wearing arseless chaps. I dont want a welded diff at all thanks!

Thanks for the info Stidnam.
Yeah the dude i talked to mentioned that the trutrac was around $800 or so for a ford 9", so i knew immediately that would probably blow out my budget. Richard wasnt there to give exact prices for the Dana30 trutrac, so i'll check back in tomorrow.

I guess that a torsen would be better for track work, but i dont think i will be doing track days for quite some time, so it can probably wait.
I'll compare pricing tomorrow and go from there - if its only a couple of hundred extra to go from locker to torsen, i might just go torsen.


Is there anywhere else i could get the diff done other than craft??? I dont want to be waiting a metric millenia.

[The Witzl]

Just another question.... back on page 1 AE86slut mentioned this mob:
http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/html/lokka.htm

having a read it seems like a "smooth operation locker"..... but this one feature has me intrigued:

LOKKA will perform the same as open and LSD differentials when the vehicle is driven under equal traction conditions, ie on road. The LOKKA allows the wheels to "differentiate" around the turn, but reverses the operation in that it transfers the engine torque (hence drive) to the inside wheel, rather than the outside wheel.

So would driving the inside wheel instead of the outside wheel be bad on the track? Im thinking yes, because there would be less weight applied to the inside wheel thus making it easier to break traction with a RWD - making it probably awesome for skids and drift, but ghey for racing.

Or do i have it all wrong?

[takai]

Just another question.... back on page 1 AE86slut mentioned this mob:
http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/html/lokka.htm

having a read it seems like a "smooth operation locker"..... but this one feature has me intrigued:


So would driving the inside wheel instead of the outside wheel be bad on the track? Im thinking yes, because there would be less weight applied to the inside wheel thus making it easier to break traction with a RWD - making it probably awesome for skids and drift, but ghey for racing.

Or do i have it all wrong?

How you have read it is how i read it too,

[MWP]

So would driving the inside wheel instead of the outside wheel be bad on the track? Im thinking yes, because there would be less weight applied to the inside wheel thus making it easier to break traction with a RWD - making it probably awesome for skids and drift, but ghey for racing.

Isnt that what a standard open diff does?
Inside wheel has less grip, so its the one that spins up.

[web]

How I read it, this diff will lock when power is applied, and unlock only to allow the outside wheel to spin faster than the diff.

It will not allow one wheel to spin slower than the diff, like an open diff does.

It's simply a lockright diff. Used mostly offroad. On the road it will break traction on the inner wheel first, before sending a lot of power to the outside wheel. It's harsh like a welded diff, only without the scrubbing when slow. Not gonna set any laptime records, but effective for the drags.