The old "volvo diff into celica conversion"

[drumerboyben]

Yes it is the Dana 30. I think that's the one you're after(DANA 30 JEEP CJ 3.73 STANDARD ROTATION RING AND PINION GEAR SET | eBay) but I'd be double checking with the guy selling it to make sure. I was only buying the LSD so I had the specific Detroit part number etc so it was a little easier. Let me know how you go with it, I think I'm gonna change the ratio in mine down the track too.
Cheers,
Ben

[xa-mont]

is anyone else interested in getting an LSD/gearset from those guys? I probably will be and it would make sense to get a bit of a group buy going due to the weight and postage costs.

[The Witzl]

remember - once you get a single shipment that is over AU$1000 in value, you will get slugged for importy duty + GST, which will add around 15% to the price.
Sometimes it can be better to do individual shipments.

[gmonkey]

im going to do a quaffe diff from the UK for my volvo, not cheap but i know theyre quality . Been quoted around $700 for the unit itself

[The Witzl]

just wanted to add some info to this thread about my experiences with the volvo diff conversion....... that i learnt the hard way (this being my first real diff conversion!)

1. Studs.
Of course you need to weld and re-drill the axles to suit your desired stud pattern... but some points to note!!
Volvo wheel studs have a 1/2" x 20' thread, as opposed to 12x1,5mm thread that toyota has.
The studs on the ovlov diff also locate the disc rotor as well as hold the wheel in place.
When chosing what studs to go for... you have to ensure that they have enough shoulder on them to locate the disc rotors as well as hold the wheel on securely. Of course you also need to drill your disc rotors accordingly too.

I had no choice, i bought my axles welded/redrilled already, to suit the volvo studs. Hence i now have a front and rear set of wheel nuts (different threads!)


2. Wheel locating spigot
The centre spigot that locates the wheels on a toyota is 55mm iirc.
Volvo is more like 60mm, or something similar.
You have to machine down the spigot to suit toyota wheels, of course..... there is plenty of meat there to do it.... best of getting this done at the same time as welding/re-drilling.

3. Do all of the above BEFORE you get new bearings and seals fitted!!!

[alexlegault]

you learn something new every day

[blanky]

with the ideal stud pattern being 5x114.3 being standard on ford falcons has anyone shortened one to suit the celica. I'm not sure about the diff ratios or the handbrake setup . would save on the re-drill exercise

[Toy77]

the biggest draw back for most people doing a diff conversion is haveing them shortened.

hence the search for as close to ideal as possible.

Mind you custom axles are not as dear as they once were... but - the price i paid to have all the mounts put on my diff, diff straigtened and studs redrilled, is less than the cost of custom axles, let alone the added cost of shortening - ie cost would be well over double.

Cheers
Stew

[viccelicara23]

I've been investigating alternative rotors that could potential fit the Volvo diff as I wish to retain a 4x114.3 pattern and don't particularly like the idea of my rotors looking like Swiss cheese.
After trawling through the dba catalogue I was unable to find a suitable rotor in 4 stud (Sigma rotor cam close but appear to have to larger centre effecting calliper clearance) although i did find a potential option for those going 5 stud in the form of a Mercedes rotor fitted to the W126.
The DBA 251 rotor has a diameter of 279mm (Volvo 281mm) and height of 72mm (Volvo 73.5mm so therefore minor milling of calliper mount required) and a pcd of 5x112mm.

Spec sheet for Volvo rotor: http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_...9-95a23a06598d
Spec sheet for Mercedes rotor: http://bremboaftermarket.com/En/Car_...4-bd40c0494715

As far as i can see to fit the Mercedes rotor the centre bore would have to be enlarged 1mm, the calliper mount have 1.5mm shaved of it and the stud holes receive some minor filing (potentially not require due to Mercedes using larger stud size) even if some is required it will be minor as seen below (cyan colours represent 114.3, the magenta represents 112).

What do you guys think?

[jabbatron]

..........

[The Witzl]

What about the link someone posted just a few posts back?????

http://stores.ebay.com.au/RONS-MACHI...34Q2ec0Q2em322


Plenty of gear set options.
Normally, old rwd celicas are 4.11:1 ratio.
I've got 3.9:1 in my Volvo I believe... But I have a big turbo 18rg and w58 gearbox, so this ratio should be nice.

[jabbatron]

..........

[Toy77]

personally...
i had my old 1g with the 4.1 gears... then did my volvo conversion with 3.9's

I thought it was much better. Again now i have a 1j with r154 - the factory ratio for a supra was 4.1, with 500 kg odd less weight, i figured 3.9 was still good.
A good mate recently went from 4.3 to 3.9 with everything else the same. he mentioned it all seem slower etc etc, he even went slower at the drags - and previously he was well into 5th gear at hte line....

turns out he wasnt driving it hard enough to get the most out of it....

3.7, i personally think is too tall, 3.9 or 4.1 .... be bout right. I found the slightly taller gears helped to load the turbo harder.

I would just get a stock set of gear though from a wrecker - the ratio is listed on the plate on the snout of the diff, if you can still read it.

Cheers
Stew

[SHEPPO3930]

Hi guys,

I have shortlisted two diffs for my 4agte ta22 and one is a 240 volvo diff. My only reservation for going with a volvo diff is the lack of information regarding what aftermarket gears fit inside of them. There's talk of 3.5 and up/down, 3.7 and up/down, 1030 v 1031, etc.

Has anyone been able to get aftermarket gears for the usual 240 volvo diff found in most australian 240's?

Any help would be appreciated as i'd like to avoid going down the path of a diff that requires shortening.

Cheers.

[Toy77]

Hey mate,

Why do you want aftermarket gears??
I have an aftermarket centre in mine (trutrac)
I need to decide what to do with my diff - either buy new gears, or strip it down - either way i will be selling it. so i will look into new gears, but still probably easier to get them from a wrecker.

By the way - it appears i found the limit of the volvo diff.... it handled my 200rwkw 1g, on slicks.... but my 530rwhp 1j on race tyres was too much for the crown wheel and pinion.
still a tough diff... pity i only just put the new centre in it

Cheers
Stew