The old "volvo diff into celica conversion"

[jabbatron]

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[jabbatron]

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[Toy77]

hrmm...

so you had no probs with drums on the back with your current front brakes... but change it to twin piston discs and now you lock up?

this is a bit strange. Normally you have problems with drums on the rear as they dont require as much fluid movement to activate them. This problem gets worse as you put larger and larger front brakes on - as you now require more fluid movement to activate with bigger fronts, the rears lock up earlier and earlier.

AS i said, i had the jza80 mater cyl, with 4 piston hilux fronts and volvo rears it was pretty good - i have an adjustable ones now (which i haven't used as my car was off the road) but this was more because i was doing all new lines anyway, so figured i may as well have it there.

[Cuzzo]

I put a straight edge on the diff and it appears to be fine?

Hi,

This is not the most ideal way to check for straightness.

You want to completely strip the inside of the diff and run a tube through very close to the size of the diff tube and check at both ends the gaps around the pole are equal. A diff shop is the best equipped for this. Might be worth dropping it off.

[stidnam]

Has anyone managed to change the stud pattern to 5x114.3 yet? I seem to recall when I drilled my rotors that they already looked like Swiss cheese and I ended up using one of the big holes as a stud hole.

I'm changing my front end to 5x114.3 and it'd be nice not having to buy a whole new diff for a stud conversion.

stidnam

*edit* should have done some more reading. Toy77 someone asked you awhile back for a picture just wondering if you can post something up to show how you've had your rotor redrilled.

Cheers

[Toy77]

yeah there are a few around redrilled, mine being one of them.

I may get a pic - problem is remembering when the wheel is off..... there will be a few partial holes and a couple clean ones though.

[The Witzl]

Hey Witzl, on both my volvo diff conversions the inner seals were removed & discarded, because the replacement bearings weren't sealed & the bearing retainers didn't have the shoulder for the seals to seal against. No problems with it like that over the years.

Odd, i would have thought that unsealed bearing would want grease, not diff oil?

I got me some big ass sockets to knock the inner seals in now, which have worked a treat on one side already. Just gotta do the other side then install axles.

Then another 2 years and i might have a working car?

[The Witzl]

This is what i did with the handbrake cable mounts, hopefully it clears the lower control arms.

Jabba,

unfortunately, that handbrake cable mount between the lower trailing arm mount will hit on the trailing arm - this is the problem I had when fitting mine.
You will need to cut that off.

Note my pic here - http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/...g?t=1306486391
You can see the tab marked with X has been cut off, and you can see why with the diff fitted to the car..... the lower trailing arm wont fit otherwise.

Besides - that one isnt really required for the handbrake cables.... all it does is locate a plastic tube of sorts, most likely just to protect the handbrake cable from dirt and shit.

[stidnam]

Did some google sketching and came up with the following. Black is the 5x114.3 pattern and is actually the stud size not the hole size. Add another 2mm on for the holes that would need to be drilled. The top right one looks like it might be close once drilled but thats only 2 holes out of 5 that would be clean.

I emailed RDA and asked if they'd supply me with blank discs. Don't think they will but no harm asking.

[jabbatron]

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[Toy77]

ok then... ill go pull the wheels off and take a pic today...

[Toy77]

ok....

please excuse the rust marks on the hubs - they havent moved in a long time.. lol



there are 3 complete holes. 2 on the right hand side have just broken through to the holes below them - they are probably about 85% complete holes if that makes sense???
I spoke to the guy drilling them - a diff specialist up here - he told me it would be fine - the rotors are clamped by the wheels and hubs, and located by the centre. and have 3 complete holes - the 2 incomplete ones would provide as much resistance to movement as the original 4 stud arrangment.

Cheers
Stew

[stidnam]

Excellent! I rotated my diagram around to that point when I was mocking it up but thought the 21mm holes might cause a problem with the width between them but obviously not. Too easy then. I picked up another axle just this weekend and will drop it all off to a diff shop to swap over to 5 stud.

Anyone interested in some 4x114.3 axles and rotors?

So Stew lets talk wheels now We are both in the same boat I think. KE70 crossmember up front with R33 brakes running MS65 hubs? What offset and width were you thinking? I'm thinking at least 8" and pumped all the way around. Maybe 8 +20 on the front and 8 +10 on the rear?

stidnam

[Toy77]

im already running 17 in volks on mine. i dont have r33 fronts yet - but do have the caliper adaptors (what set up is it - i grapped a set of mounts when they came up, but cant remember what discs or mods are required to fit em???)

but yeah have ms65 hubs (pug/hilux) coilovers and t3 tops.
i run 17x7 front wearing 205's 17x8 rears running 235's and could go wider.... my offsets are girly though - but i absolutely loved the rims.

Cheers]
Stew

[stidnam]

Took a look at your thread and they look quite good.

The r33 setup uses r33 rotors and the ms65 hubs as well. Need some mods to the hubs and calipers I think. Not quite sure. I haven't actually done mine yet.

I've been inspired by 77gze's wheels though. The offset he had was amazing. Car looked tough as well!