4 link suspension

[chris davey]

Thanks Jeremy. Very interesting.

[oldcorollas]

rubber lowers and tie rod uppers will allow the diff to climb still...

i still don't understand why the top mount went forward.. unless the other one is pulled out? or?

could it have happened on decel? or was it tramping? or or?

[kingmick]

could have been a dud bush and it took the weakest path, still a fair bit of force on the top remmeber, oyjer wise you could get away with using smaller rose joint on top, but everyone uses the same size top and bottom.

[chris davey]

Stu: I will take some pics and see. Actually, I think the bush may have slid backwards but the left wheel definitely seems like it is forward. Don't really know how that works but that is what it seems like from looking at the marks on the bush housing just now.

[chris davey]

Ok, just pulled the trailing arm out. Here are the pics

left 1


left 2


right


body mount end 1


body mount end 2


chewed out


When we bought the bushes we were told we had to chop into them a little to allow for grease to flow. Also attached the grease nipples and channels on the small bar that goes through the middle. Could those channels have contributed?

These bushes have been on there for about 500kms I would guess.

When we held one end of the arm still and put the bolt through the other end, there was a lot of lateral movement. Not just in the body end either, the diff end seems stuffed as well.

So if I get steel ones made up, would they have to be 2 piece like these? Would they need the wider bit that sits next to the metal? Like A on this diagram, as opposed to B. B could be one piece and slide through.

[kingmick]

Yep, looks like the extra movment in them has hammered them on launches.
A two piece bush is just asking for trouble with the launches you are doing, There exagerating the twist {allowing them to twist more than they should}.

[kingmick]

just get the two top bars rose jointed now and work your way threw them if cast is a factor.
Are they solid or hollow rods? if solid you could get the threaded and uses female rose joints at just the top for now as a quick fix. pretty cost effective.

[jonra23]

If you want a reasonable fix and are planning to go rose joints in the not to distant future would put eihter neoprene or rubber bushes back in.( I may have mentioned i don't think a solid metal bush is a real good idea)

If you put in neoprene bushes clock the bolts so that gresae holes/groves are vertical (away from direction of force) don't cut or grove bushes asssemble and pump a heap of moly grease in to them after assembled.

Rubber bushes although not giving as solid a location as neoprene will actualy take more of a pounding as there is no actualy moving parts.
The outside of the bush is a solid press fit in the arm, the crush tube is molded into the bush and clamps up firm when bolt is tightened, the twist is taken up in the flex of the rubber.
Also rubber will try and go back to orignal shape when neoprene is deformed it go part way back to original shape but not completely, then you have some slop in joint and it will be a rapid downhill slide from there.

If using rubber assemble suspension with loose bolts, lower car down onto the ground and bounce a few times, when car is sitting at ride hieght on the wheels tighten all bolts up. If you tightne bolts up when car is not at rest on suspension the rubbers are all at tension right from the start and will die very quickly.

Four link rear suspension bushes have a fair bit harder job than any other suspension bushes, most bushes pivot in one direction where a rear four link with a panhard rod gets a stress on it from a lot of different directions especialy when dif twists, suspension squats and drive power is being pushed into the body all at the same time in a launch.

regards
jon

[kingmick]

Chris what times are you running?

[chris davey]

Thanks again

At the moment high 13's LOL. Aiming for 11's on street tyres and when I get more funds and can get all the safety equipment 10's on slicks.

Just went down to the mechanics to get some advice. He said I should be using nolethane which is red not blue like I have. Noltec, don't know what the difference is?

Anyway, he has lent me his ta22 celica arm which looks like it will fit. It is a little bit narrower so I will space it with something.

ta22 on left, xt130 on right.


This is a temporary thing as he has these and is doing them for a guy with a 1j in a leyland p76 who is having the same problems as I am.

He said they come from an AE82 corolla but has no idea what they are or what they are officially called. They have steel bushes and are adjustable and he said they will work a treat on a car like mine. He put them in a vice and they have plenty of side to side movement but absolutely no forward and back. So I need to know what these things are as I think I need 4 of them. Actually, do you think I need 4 or just 2? I could just put new nolethane bushes in the lower arms as they don't need adjustability and fit these ones up the top. What do you think?

Anyway, here are the pics of what this thing is.






Will start another thread re the above so others will have a look

[kingmick]

sorry mate i thought you where in the 10"s etc, nothelene should be fine for the moment, but if you want to change the setup i would just do proper moly rose joints and get the tubes made up instead of above, wnt be that much more expensive and then it is set up for later when you get more grip instead of having to change again.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

chris those arms off the ae82, how long are they?

they look ideal for my traction bar setup!

[chris davey]

about 555mm long

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

holy batman... find out what they came from!

edit: dammit need to share the love to give rep

[jonra23]

The bottom two pics have rose joints on them, that is what you are after in the long run.

If greasing nolathene bushes need to get the grease to the inside, the only realy succesfull way to do it is get the bolts drilled longitudinaly to the middle of the bush, cross drill and tap a grease nipple into the end.

Not a real hard jod in a lathe.

regards
jon