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Thread: The Tips and Tricks thread

  1. #331
    C2H5OH Powered Automotive Encyclopaedia George's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Pumps create pressure not flow
    that's exactly why I do need higher pressure part. My car uses steering machine which needs more pressure than a rack does. I've seen a couple 3RZ conversions into cars with steering machines, they used USDM Toyota T100 pumps with no modifications. I thought maybe there're direct replacement pumps available for the JZ, too. Currently I use ZF pump off some Audi as temporary solution

    As for pressure/flow thing, vane pumps for power steering have builtin bypass valve. The thing that matters is when it goes open.
    Last edited by George; 10-09-2012 at 05:56 PM.
    USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
    Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own

  2. #332
    Junior Member Too Much Toyota dnegative's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Whoops, other way around. Pumps create flow not pressure

    If you cant get your current pump to flow enough @ xx psi then need a bigger pump. Look for doner vehicles that run big PS racks or perhaps fiddle with the relief valve if you can.
    Last edited by dnegative; 10-09-2012 at 10:02 PM.

  3. #333
    C2H5OH Powered Automotive Encyclopaedia George's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    I couldn't find appropriate JDM donor so far (that's why I asked here if there're any options), ended up with European make...but can't find one in decent condition. The part I currently run produces nasty whining above 2000rpm. In all other aspects it's fine enough though.
    USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
    Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own

  4. #334
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    have you looked at going to a electric pump?

  5. #335
    C2H5OH Powered Automotive Encyclopaedia George's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Not really, can you name a decent donor for that? Would be great to have progressive steering based on that, n/p to design and implement custom electronic control module.
    USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
    Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own

  6. #336
    Your mum is a Conversion King TERRA Operative's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Grab one from an MR2 maybe?

  7. #337
    C2H5OH Powered Automotive Encyclopaedia George's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Which one exactly? A brief look at AW11 (4age) didn't reveal electric power steering pump, maybe I did something wrong
    edit: ok, it's 44310-17010, will have a look at local importers
    p/s dead search everywhere. Looks like a very rare part. Besides I don't think MR2 runs high flow/pressure since the size of the car and its rack in particular
    Last edited by George; 12-09-2012 at 06:46 PM.
    USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
    Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own

  8. #338
    Forum Member 1st year Apprentice
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    google is your special friend (just got to know how to touch it) but i found

    http://www.evsource.com/tls_steering.php

    http://www.hydrive.com.au/site/product-io.html

    http://www.splitez.com/hydraulic_DC_Pump.html

    it would help to know what it's for but this should get you started

  9. #339
    C2H5OH Powered Automotive Encyclopaedia George's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    sc400, I consider availability as decisive factor. I don't stick with electric pumps but rather consider them as a good possible choice. The two main criteria are that part should be used JDM one. Otherwise delivery will boost the price enormously. At least for me. So this time google won't help much.
    USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
    Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own

  10. #340
    Junior Member Backyard Mechanic greywolf's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Would fitting a smaller pulley to the pump count be beyond scope ?

    Smaller pulley on the standard pump would mean more revolutions which would mean more psi ? I'm a completely engineering newbie, but thought I'd throw the idea into the hat.

  11. #341
    C2H5OH Powered Automotive Encyclopaedia George's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    No that won't help as these pumps have bypass valve built in. Guys, the pump is not a vital problem for me, I was just wondering if there's a nice replacement widely known which I occasionally don't know yet. If not, I still have plenty of options.
    USSR GAZ24 with 1UZ-FE VVTi (UCV24) http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=60301
    Engine conversion is when you drive a shitbox which costs a whole LEXUS to own

  12. #342
    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Here's one for you that I have used in speedway:

    Old original equipment McPherson struts are occasionally able to be disassembled. They can then be cleaned and re-filled with oil. Of any grade. Ordinary engine oil in a worn out shock makes a stiff shock on a very limited budget.

    Also with some imagination, the same shocks can be modified to alter the valving. Normally these shocks only have valves that restrict extension, but through a combination of modifying the valving and different oils you can achieve almost the same resistance in both directions.

    Also on the subject of McPherson struts, when using an aftermarket sealed insert put half a cup of auto transmission fluid in the bottom of the (clean) strut. When the insert is inserted, the oil will be displaced up the side of the strut almost to the top. This increases the heat transfer from the new damper to the outer case a LOT and keeps the important bits cooler.

  13. #343
    Cressidaspert Carport Converter andrew_mx83's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Nice one. So thicker oil = stiffer?
    How does it affect the longevity?



    +rep
    There is no substitute for PUBIC inches

    Never late in an x8

  14. #344
    Junior Member Grease Monkey
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    I can't comment on longevity of new oil in worn struts in a road vehicle but in the first (and longest suffering) speedway car I have seen this done to it lasted two seasons until we sold it.

    Longevity gain of oil around replacement inserts? Again I can't quantify. But remember that dampers convert movement to heat, and heat kills oil, and seals, and metal...

    Yes thicker oil = stiffer dampers

  15. #345
    Cressidaspert Carport Converter andrew_mx83's Avatar
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    Default Re: The Tips and Tricks thread

    Hmm food for thought, thanks.

    Usually i keep the big bar as a level/drift/attitude adjusting bar and bin the rest, i might have to pay more attention next time.
    There is no substitute for PUBIC inches

    Never late in an x8

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