Javal, you make things sound so easy...lol
so, both sensors will be required for best engine results...ok.
more reading up.
Now i see where this whole conversion is going. $$$$$$$$$$$
Ok, now this is gonna take longer than i thought.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
You can easily just use the dizzy and run batch fire fuel and ignition. I did this first time around with no problems. But this setup wasn't that expensive. I'm running X4 LS1 coils.
oh, wow, that's what i want....
did you modify the crank trigger wheel much?
i like the sensor bracket...do you have another....lol
So from what i see with the dizzy, u have ground off 3 teeth, for home signal, but i don't see a sensor.
is that because its on the crank?
So in your case with both dizzy and crank, you don't need a trigger wheel on the dizzy????
As the one tooth gives it a home....t/F
Sorry for the confusion guys.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
Speak to Yellorolla he made the brackets and mounted the trigger wheel. He does great work. He machined the last v off the pulley and mounted it on there.
The sensor for the home signal is the original trigger which is this black thing in the bottom with the two wires running to it.
the 36-1 trigger in on the crank and the home is the dizzy.
You could graft something from a 4age but that will take some work also.
http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/members/190-YelloRolla
Alex
yes, Yellorolla.... (aka JMR Engines)... who rebuilt my engine did the same.
He does really great work and builds a strong engine and, if you got the coin, can really build you something special.
I had troubles with idle so we put in idle control also, and as I hate changing engines (nearly as much as having them self destruct) I also have engine cut-off on low oil pressure.
I miss my angryish 18R-G, but Trini should be back soonish and I can enjoy it once again.
The thinking man's clown and the drinking woman's sex symbol
RA25GT - There is no substitute | 18R-G - Toyota's Dependable Masterpiece
Toymods Car Club Treasurer, assistant Historic Plate Registrar & Forums Admin
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
i love that this thread is still going strong, nearly 10 years on!!
Im now on the hunt for some 9.7:1 pistons, or higher comp, that arent ridiculously expensive.
I've got a little 18RGEU with 8.3:1 pistons here in need of a re-fresh and knowing how much of a difference there is between the 8.7:1 and 9.7:1 pistons, there is no way i will run a comp ratio below the 9.7's.
Im open to looking at custom made cast pistons, but want them at a reasonable price (ie, aorund $400).
Have been reading about using a 20R piston, but they just seem wrong. Just you can get the dome volume with an aftermarket higher comp piston, but then you run valve interference and have to fly-cut, resulting in a loss of compression...... and they are still pretty pricey.
I'm even open to sourcing from China at the moment.
What have other people done lately?
...... butt scratcher?!
FYi - the trigger wheel setup pictured above is something that JMR developed when building my 18RGTE.
You buy the trigger wheel from www.trigger-wheels.com along with the matching sensor, and then Jase (JMR) will turn down the 18RG crank pulley and machine up the trigger wheel to press+bolt onto the 18rg crank pulley. Then its just a matter of making a simple bracket to hold the sensor.
This trigger gives the "crank position" signal to your ECU.
Then if you want to run sequential ignition, you modify your dissy as mentioned above to give the ECU a "reference" signal for when the engine is back to cylinder 1 compression.
...... butt scratcher?!
Still expensive, but there's these Cast 18R-G Pistons for roughly $670 AUD. I'm not sure what "Convex +8.0mm" works out to be as a compression ratio.
And then there's the obscenely expensive forged pistons you probably already know about ( Whitehead Performance, Kameari )
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
idle controler.JPG
does anyone know the wiring to this 3 wire excel idle module thingy.
i believe its best wired up to the haltech E6K pwm pin.
what is the wiring set up for this?
also is it true the 3 wire type is wired up as
1. 12v
2. pwm wire 1- BAc
3. Pwm wire 2- Bac slave to get this working?
im sure this gives me information that would help, but im not asian to undersatand it..;(
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPLUMj8lUJI
Last edited by Omegaman; 30-03-2015 at 05:23 PM.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
http://www.adaptronic.com.au/idle-valve-wiring/
Partway down the page man
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
Ra35gt, Another great correct answer from you. the next correct answer will win you a trip to Sydney, with accommodation and free access to completing my car.
thanks, I looked at every web scenario to find the wiring on this...well not all by the looks of it...cheers.
my previous RA28, R.I.P is here.
http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.p...t=0#msg_651396
Current build here.http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=33512
lol
Funnily enough I'll be in Sydney in a couple weeks haha
1977 RA35 Celica GT - I4 | 2007 GSV40R Aurion - V6
Don't live life being scared of death, live in the fear of not truly living. RP 2012
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