1uz into v6 4runner.

[blurunner]

hi all,
i,m wanting to do the conversion, 92 v6 limited 4runner, looking at plain 1uz, no vvti to simplify it as much as possible.

car now has r150f box that has been rebuilt and doesn,t make a sound. diffs the same.

can anyone advise if this is strong enough or is the 4speed auto from same engine with the shaft mods etc a better
way to keep things smooth and diff life longer. 4x4 work mainly beach. mates auto cruiser is effortless.

looking at a celsior front sump package ecu uncut loom, all accesories and auto box.

i,ve read enough to know to replace the bulk of engine seals/belts/pumps. BEFORE fitting.

a bloke i know works in a large mech w/shop that specialisies in elecrical work as well, does work from home w/ends.

can anyone advise on neccesity of lift kits or any other unforseeable snags that might arise.

any help very much appreciated .

[litldv8]

the v6 body is a better one to start off with as the firewall pressing is a little easier
up to you gearbox or auto but the r150 box will be up to the task if you dont abuse it
i would make it auto if it was me
killa kustom kables or sideshow both do wiring kits for them
a body lift will make it easier but not necessary
the 4runner fuel pump is up to the task

[blurunner]

thanks for help litldv8, i figure the auto shaft change would be around the same, maybe a little cheaper than adaptor/flywheel/clutch/slave shitfight.

and as i,m getting long in the tooth auto sounds good and easy on the sand.

is the front sump the go for runners? would like to go vvti 5spd auto if getting them to run wasn,t such an issue, seen a few with drama,s on start up.

a mate has access to all code checkers etc at w/shop, so sorting out should be possible, gauges and stuff not sure .

good that standard pump will cope.

can get lexus 99 sc400 90,000k,s complete conversion for around $1900.. this seems the go.

[4th surf]

I do a lot of these..

To start with unless you plan on doing a solid axle swap you need a front sump engine which are Celsior/LS400 or later UZS151 Crown. For a 4WD you don't really need a VVTi engine but they have a few more pros than cons.

Wiring.. if you can read a wiring diagram it's a matter of matching the pinouts of the ecus and turn the key..

Plus no matter if you want to go auto or manual you will need a few bits from an LN130 Surf/4runner (gearbox crossmember, drive shafts etc)

[mullett]

I've seen a couple done (one in the flesh recently) no body lift, standard v6 box, rear sump, and no clearance issues. However, he did use a front diff drop with a 4in suspension lift. Looking at them surely the front sump would cause interference with the swaybar/steering damper?

[4th surf]

I've seen a couple done (one in the flesh recently) no body lift, standard v6 box, rear sump, and no clearance issues. However, he did use a front diff drop with a 4in suspension lift. Looking at them surely the front sump would cause interference with the swaybar/steering damper?

Ahh that one...

With stock suspension and no bodylift unless you have a full on custom made sump a rear sump won't fit as there are things such as a front diff and all it's mountings in the way. Front sump and notch the sump bowl and no problems (I increase the oil capacity to 10l while doing this)

[mullett]

To do this you need to remove the steering stabiliser yes? Have you got any pics of a sump you've fitted? I'd be very keen for a looksy

Also not sure why you need to move the standard R150F from its factory location?

-RM

[4th surf]

You don't want to see the sump that's on my Surf at present (neither do I) as it's a slap up made out of bits of D40 navarra sump just to get the thing going (impatient wife up arse at the time, then she learnt why it wasn't a good idea to lean over the front gaurd for a look when it was fired up for the first time... No need to shave down there anymore ) .

Steering damper needs to be relocated to under the drag link (if you bother to fit it at all, I'll get around to fitting mine one day as well as changing the slapup sump given that the first prototype is sitting on the shelf with the steering damper waiting to be fitted, all for clients cars are fitted obviously) This isn't hard to do, the hardest part is removing the cast in lug from the top of the drag link.

Gearbox movement. I never moved mine from the factory location but I started with an LN130 Surf where the box sits some 40mm further to the rear than the V6 4runner. Nor are the gearboxes moved on 4cyl petrol Hilux conversions. The only ones that do get moved are conversions into KZN130 Surf where the box comes forward by 25mm to the LN130 position. Why? So you can fit a decent radiator and fit a cooling fan plus get the air intake in and get the lid shut. It also means that unless you have a huge lift you keep all of the driveline angles stock so no vibration or chewing out uni joints, Plus COG as original which you want to keep in a 4bie as tipping over does tend to make not only a mess of the car but a mess of ones pants too.

Rest of the conversion right down to the wiring I try to keep as close to stock as possible for ease of future fault finding and replacement parts. I mean if an engine mount breaks you go to Repco or similar "I want an engine mount for a '92 Hilux" "Here ya go" rather than "Can you match this up?" "WTF?"

Scanners.. Unless you wire in the TDCL from the donor car (which no engine packages come with unless you buy a whole car or half cut, round plug under the dash on the drivers side) aside from making the engine check lamp flash the scanner won't talk to it. by that I mean It won't give you live data or codes on the screen of the scanner. Fortunately my wife don't know how to use it so there aint any moaning about the cost of the thing.

Mullett you're in Perth. Feel free to drop round to the shop and have a nosey but I aint letting you drive the "UZN130" unless I get to drive the "UZA61"

[blurunner]

thanks for info, does the vvti require key and barrel to run right or just ecu/harness etc.

does the crossmember conversion allow decent exhaust without a lift kit?

car already has a massive 4row h/duty old school type in it, temp never moves off 1/3 or so matter what.

if i went the adaptronic 420 type, can this run the whole system ?

looking at this vvti eng but looks abit rough round the edges 95ks fresh import.

[George]

blurunner for vvti 1uz you need ecu, key, barrel, and immobilizer transponder. As for aftermarket ecu, it should be capable of double vvti

[mullett]

For VVTi you'll really need one of the newer 'select' adaptronics or a 1280. I'm running a 420C on my (non vvti) 1UZ, and I'm very happy with it. Just make sure you find a tuner willing to spend the time setting up the idle control, closed loop fuelling etc etc correctly!

-RM

[blurunner]

For VVTi you'll really need one of the newer 'select' adaptronics or a 1280. I'm running a 420C on my (non vvti) 1UZ, and I'm very happy with it. Just make sure you find a tuner willing to spend the time setting up the idle control, closed loop fuelling etc etc correctly!

-RM

not sure if anyone in newcastle has experience with these set ups, a couple of microtech tuners if i went that way.
more homework i,m thinking.
thanks for info.

the import seller is saying the 98 vvti was,nt immobilised like later ones hence will run without key/barrell.
saying he,s sold heaps without comeback and his feedback is excellent.
wouldn,t be happy if set up and no go. more homework.

[George]

blurunner
could you ask him send you photo of '98 ECU?

there's quite the same deal with aristo's , early ones are not immobilized and it's possible to run stock 2jz-gte without immobilizer stuff.
And with aristo's, ECU's are different in appearance and part number (89661-xxxx)

[4th surf]

the import seller is saying the 98 vvti was,nt immobilised like later ones hence will run without key/barrell.
saying he,s sold heaps without comeback and his feedback is excellent.
wouldn,t be happy if set up and no go. more homework.

BULLSH!T.. Sorry I sneezed '98 is a model change year so it's a bit "Hit 'N' miss" as to whether it has the immobiliser or not and it depends on what the engine came out of too. UCF21 Celsior got the immobiliser with VVti in late '96 (Toyota Japan do the model changes in August) with Crown (UZS151 if I'm right) following 12 months later and there is a way around this yet those that know won't tell (I think we all know how they are, ones just moved north in the eastern states and the other is in NZ). As to whether you go back to the seller for a moan well most people don't. Given that I don't know who the seller is in this instance I'm basing my comment on a current client who wants the remains of a ZD30 taken out of his Pootroll and a TD42 fitted. Against my advise(go buy a complete written off vehicle) he got a "Kit" from the eastern states and we've found that the most important bit of the "Complete no worries" conversion kit is missing, namely vehicle wiring harness. He went back to the seller and pretty much got told to "F*ck off".. Yay more work for me and quoted budget out the door...

What I'm saying is any engine that you're looking at get the part no off of the ECU (89661-*****) and use the part no look up on Toyodiy to "reverse engineer" the part no and find out just what it is out of. Or play it safe and get a half cut which is something I strongly recomend as then you get everything needed plus will be surprised as to just what you do use out of said halfcut for the conversion.

The gearbox crossmember that I've mentioned aside from placing the gearsack in the correct position to allow upfront clearance for a cooling system that works makes no difference to exhaust clearance. I run 57mm tuned length front pipes with either log type manifolds or custom "Tri Y" extractors and 63mm single system which they seem to love. As well as keeping the "car" looking stock depending on your chosen exhaust builder they have a pleasant note and return reasonable fuel consumption for what they are. The secret is to make the primaries as long as you can and if possible up the fueling a tad. With the later engines you do need to fit the sub O2s or they will throw fault codes. The Subs from '93 on are a 4wire. Rule of thimb here is simple. 1 wire main O2s you can get away without the subs, 4 Wire fit the subs, some are two wire some are 4 depending on ECU. This is of course if you wish to run the stock ECU which is quite adequate for the 4wds

[dumbass]

or forget all this shit and fit an ls1
best bang for bucks heheheheh
anyway not matter which way make sure u have 10 to 15 grand spare to do everythign properly