The Spray Painting Thread

[SilverRA23]

any of those blues.. with a yellow stripe

[oldcorollas]

woot! porsche 39E riviera blue can be made in acrylic for abotu $140 for 4L from VG... (they had no listing at all for the Zagato blue)

"gulf" blue is actualyl lighter.. and has orange stripe
http://www.scottgood.com/jsg/blog.nsf/2/SGOD-7BFKGR/$File/Porsche917a.jpg

[oldcorollas]

done!
4L porsche blue paint, 4L spray putty, 4L 1K etch primer, 4L acrylic thinner, 20L GP thinners, topstop nikki, some random other shit (cups/filters/tape) = $450....

geez it adds up!

guy there reckoned i could get away with 2-3L of colour, but for another $20-30more, i have more space for farkups... maybe i have enough "base" stuff for next car too

anyway..... all revved up to sand and have a crack at spraying primer and...... it starts pissing down DOH



edit: still nto sure on if i should do clear or not.... the colour doesn't neeeeed it but.. it would be good practice....??

["Z" UTE]

oldcorollas, one litre of etch primer would have sufficed. In my experiece etch primer goes on in a thin almost tranlucent coat. This thin coat provides good adhesion to the metal and the primer/filler will adhere well to the the thin etch coat.

Let the etch primer flash off then apply your primer. You do not want to be sanding the etch primer. if at all possible.

cheers Chuck.

[oldcorollas]

in the noob's course they did, they used this "1K etch primer" as an etch primer and as a normal primer, ie over bog, and over the spray putty.... they seemed to say it was ok to use just that, as opposed to an etch primer on the metal, then a specifi acrylic primer on top of stuff?? i don't really know

http://www.conceptpaints.com.au/TDS/...h%20Primer.pdf
http://www.conceptpaints.com.au/prod...otive/primers/

at worst, i suppose have enough for a few cars i suppose
I'll call up on monday and check with them, before using....


also, will do a write up of the pulling apart of this "workquip" 102G gun... it needs some "work" before using....

["Z" UTE]

oldcorollas, yes there are etch primer/primer combo's. Just wonder why they sold you 4 litres of each. Now that you have both, I would just give the metal a translucent coat of etch. Then go to town with the normal primer/filler. Yup lots of extra paint product there, but why buy 3 litres when the cans will take 4 and the cost difference is so minimal. 15 years on, and I have a substantial paint locker.

As for the gun, grab a piece of new 2000 paper and wrap it around the needle and give it a good twirl, this will remove any machining burs. When you have the gun apart, put all the bits except the neeedle in 200 to 400ml of thinners and give all the bits a good soak and shake, dry the bits with a clean white cloth. Wipe the needle with cloth dipped in thinners then dry off. (The needle is a crucial part of the gun that should be looked after really well) Re-assemble the gun, and ensure you lube the brass ferule with a tiny dab of petroleum jelly.

cheers Chuck.

[oldcorollas]

well.. the primer and putty shit were all pre-filled in 4L cans, but to be honest, i didn't check if they had any 1L cans around...
I have the "1K etch primer - grey" and the "spray putty - pink"...
should i hassle them and change that for 1L 1K etch primer, and then get an acrylic primer, or their "premier primer" or something? flying a bit blind here but going by what they demonstrated...

general teardown. the screw in bits for the paint pot and the needle (in the handle) don't come out.. well.. the metal used for all the fittings, and the alloy are all very soft, so you don't want to put too much force on them plus those fittings go into the body of the gun a long way.. probably locked in with the white popwdery shit..


starting at air in, the hole fromt he coupling is not fully drilled into the chamber where the inlet air adjusting valve is


and the "loctite" type shit they used is shit.. there is white powder crap everywhere thru the air chanbers (the paint chambers have oil of some kind in them instead)


same in the hole where the triggers air valve goes


the two small holes that deliver air to the aircap/fluid nozzle are again not fully drilled through, but might be big enough?


brass insert for the fluid nozzle (can see where those two holes come out)


fluid nozzle looks to be the best made part of the gun


air cap.. the little holes have slight burrs.. will need to fix that.
appears to be plated with something reasonably hard.. compared to everything else

[oldcorollas]

the needles "packing" appears to be nylon or similar


whereas the packing for the trigger air valfve is some brown shit.. shitty leather? the actual air valving is accomplished by the conical clear pastic thing there.. so although that shaft wobbles around a bit, it should still seal ok


both the fan control and the inlet air valves are sealed with o-rings



now the not so good bits..
inlet air valve has shit covering the end of it.. not so good. powedery shit as well as looks sort of corroded/discoloured?


same again for the fan control valve, with discoloured end, and drops of maybe oil that have congealed..




so, issues..

the needle is made ok, but the larger section, that the trigger pulls on, is a very veyr loose fit in the handle, so it all pivots aroudn the nylon seal near the front... probably not goof for longevity.
the trigger flops around a bit, neither the holes in the trigger or body are a good fit.
air chambers have white shit in them (pwdery and solid), the paint chambers have oil
aircap has burrs, holes not always drilled fully thru, metal fittings really soft (nickel plated brass maybe?)

but.. the business end of the fluid nozzle and needle look to be finished well, so it might go ok after a cleanout....

[wirysage]

Guys how much trouble do Ford Australia and Holden go to when painting their cars? We all know about the orange peel but do they do any sort of polishing or colour sanding?

[oldcorollas]

robot and 2 pack = no sanding required, and no polish?

[wirysage]

robot and 2 pack = no sanding required, and no polish?

So would'nt that mean if a proud new owner decided to polish his brand new car he could easily run through the sharp non colour sanded panel edges?

[oldcorollas]

why does 2 pack need to be colour sanded?

[wirysage]

why does 2 pack need to be colour sanded?

I guess I don't understand why acrylic needs it done but not 2 pack?

[o_man_ra23]

Olrollas, that workquip gun you have is identical to mine. I can tell you that the Superthief gun I bought for $40 (half price) is a better made gun, and sprays better. You will also find the lid on the cup will probably crack and break. But that will be a couple of years down the track.

[wirysage]

I've heard that before you do a respray you should consider re seam sealing the gutter rails. Do you think this is a good idea? Also when they say reseal it do they mean use a wire wheel to dig out the old sealer so you can apply the new sealer?